X jet VS .0040

[PressurePros 249]

Kevin, we all use the threaded type tips but we attach them to a quick coupler. On your machine a 0 degree #30 orifice will draw your chemical you can go as high as a #40 and still get higher than 25 feet. The designations would be 0030.0 or 0040.0 As an alternative you can quick couple a barb and use a pair of needle nose plier to put a little bend at the output end. This will introduce some agitation to the strema and help it spread a little. Start with a very slight bend.

We use dual lance 4 foot wands and can get 40 feet with no difficulty.

If you want to try the X-Jet pick up the M-5 version. It was mentioned also that housewashes yield a certain pay per hour. I'm not gonna revisit that but I sold two house washes (with gutter scrubbing, polymer/wax, a patio and retaining wall right next door to each other) for $800 each. One crew will do them both in one day.

[MMI Enterprises 289]

You by chance got a pic of how a quik coupled barb or quik coupled tip looks like?.Not quite getting what type barb you describe. Sounds like an interesting fix for a straight stream in pinching or bending something. Such an idea probably doesn't do anything for a regular spray tip system since they really form the pattern at the very last second of water escaping through orifice. Does that make sense?

Other problem I invision with extremely straight streams would be that of most or all of the chemical bouncing off surface. We want to spray that on at some fan or patern size right?

You saying just use one tip for both downstreaming and the rinse?. Either way both need to be of the 00** variety then?.. with the last two variable numbers being pressure level?. My regualr nozzle would be a 5 or 5.5 I assume..

xjet pattern varies between what and what?. total wide open fan (or round) to a pencil stream or what? Wondering what kind of pressure the xjet ends people with. Lower pressure would have less overspray right?

:)

[PressurePros 249]

Here is the pic of a QC on a threaded nozle. I don't have any 0 degree nozsles here, this one was in a box of my retired nozzles. Whch reminds me, I have to get around to pulling these things apart and clean them up. I'll answer your questions, or maybe others can jump in, tommorow morning.

[Mike Williamson 198]

I'm a big proponent to turning the ball valve in my downstream line so I can rinse certain areas with lower pressure i.e. landscape, windows, delicate surfaces, etc., but, yes, if one doesn't want to have to turn off the downstreamer you can shut off the pull with a smaller orifice tip.

I use a 5.5 gpm machine, and my downstreamer stops pulling with around a #15-20 orifice. I usually apply my chems with either a regular soap tip, 0540, 0030 - 0050, or a 1540. I most commonly rinse with 9510, 8010, 8020, 6515, 0515, 0012, 0015, 0020, or 0030.

Here's a trick, if you use a ball valve on the end of your pressure hose...turn the valve most of the way off, but enough so that you're getting flow without constantly cycling the unloader...You'll create enough back pressure to keep the downstreamer from drawing, and you'll be able to use a low pressure tip to rinse with.

[MMI Enterprises 289]

Kevin, we all use the threaded type tips but we attach them to a quick coupler. On your machine a 0 degree #30 orifice will draw your chemical you can go as high as a #40 and still get higher than 25 feet. The designations would be 0030.0 or 0040.0 As an alternative you can quick couple a barb and use a pair of needle nose plier to put a little bend at the output end. This will introduce some agitation to the strema and help it spread a little. Start with a very slight bend.

We use dual lance 4 foot wands and can get 40 feet with no difficulty.

If you want to try the X-Jet pick up the M-5 version. It was mentioned also that housewashes yield a certain pay per hour. I'm not gonna revisit that but I sold two house washes (with gutter scrubbing, polymer/wax, a patio and retaining wall right next door to each other) for $800 each. One crew will do them both in one day.

So my regular high pressure nozzles are missing the decimal point and so are marked like 15055 instead of 1505.5 and that gets me 3k psi with about 4.76 gpm with an actual .06 orifice dia. (5.5 size).This is according to attached chart.

So using that chart it looks like I would want to be down the chart to the **30.0 and then over to the 4.74 gpm which would give me about 100psi running a 1.41 orifice dia. (30 size). Now if that looks and sounds correct great but here is where I am confused: My current soap nozzle that I use on flatwork/fleet is a bit hard to read due to wear but seems to be reading as a 4030 . I must be reading the 3rd digit wrong cause I can't imagine it getting up beyond 15' or so. Does anyone think the spray degree being at 40 changes the shoot distance so much so that I could be reading it correctly?

What ever the case apparently I just need to get a few different properly marked sizes and try them. I should point out that it has become apparent that I was misfitted when someone sold me the Spray Systems Wash Jet nozzle for my 8' wand described in my early post. Am just atomizing water with it being a 5.5 and sapping all my strength as well. How irritating!

Mike, those sizes you requoted really beg the question of what size orifice or psi that a perticular setup will stop drawing at. I imagine the role of the little spring or weight of the little ball in the downstreamer combined with backpressure does the deciding on that.. ?

The question of what pressure people like to or are able to get down to while rinsing houses with downstream method while not having to actually go valve off the chem might be a worthy question. Personally I can't stand walking back for to do such things as turning off a downstreamer and just want to roll my wand over to pick between one that draws and one that don't. Valves as such at the tip of my wand seem to have gone by the wayside and I never see anyone else using them due to the dual lance.

C_Nozzle.pdf

[PressurePros 249]

Kevin the X-Jet operates on a good amount of pressure. By the time it hits a wall it is not a beam per se, but at the very center is a pressure stream that can "sign" oxidized soding easily if you aren't careful. The M-5 dials out to a nicer, circular fan.

When you downstream you just change tips. No on/off on downstreamer. (This post is a year old and I have switched from doing that)

To shoot chems at distance you need to start with a 0 degree spread. Its leaving the nozzle at low pressure. By the time it runs 15 feet the stream spreads a bit and does not bounce off siding like you would think it might. If it is bouncing, you're too close.

There are some very informative posts on here about which downstreamer is better, with how much hose DSing will work, undersizing for your machine to achieve better draw, etc. The search function should uncover some good info for you.

[CCPC 26]

I tried to downstream but spent so much time putting chem on and not to mention it drives me crazy waiting for them chem to travel 200 feet then when you stop drawing you need to wait for the clear water. I love the M5 X jet and don't mind carrying a bucket. I use a 5 gallon bucket with a snap on lid. Put a hole in the middle of the lid and put a zip tie around the hose before the lid inside and on the outside so the hose dosn't slide at all. just enough hose in the bucket to reach bottome and I just carry the bucket and put it in front of me and it takes just a minute or so to drench a building side in chem. Brush the gutters while I wait. Then rinse from below the gutters down and then rinse one more time starting with the gutters and down.

If you like downstreaming thats great. But what I look at is I have not seen one person say they were not happy with a x-jet. if only they were cheaper.

I don't like the X-jet. I see no advantages to a properly set up downstream system, only disadvantages. I save on average 25% more time on each job since I started downstreaming again about a year ago.

[CCPC 26]

Here's a trick, if you use a ball valve on the end of your pressure hose...turn the valve most of the way off, but enough so that you're getting flow without constantly cycling the unloader...You'll create enough back pressure to keep the downstreamer from drawing, and you'll be able to use a low pressure tip to rinse with.

Nice. Never thought of that. I'll have to try.

[MMI Enterprises 289]

Well I should clear up and end my intrusion into this debate by making some corrections to my priors..never read spray tip markings without proper light..haha.

The Spray Systems Washjet tip I refered to is a CSSS 0080. Will be good as a mid distance rinse tip on hand wand. Too hard to hold on extension wand...

Found the problem why my spray not being smooth and sharp compared to others. The rollover gizmo to run and select between two tips on single wand was causing problem.

Once I removed it from my wand I gained at least 25% more power! Guess the only thing we want on end of wand is a nice smooth path with full volume right before tip. I was able to move up to a 25 degree tip as my standard flat work tip and now the hose barb method for shooting distance works like a charm as well. Can shoot about 35' over the peak of my roof with a stainless barb and a very slightly sqwished brass one is giving me a nice 3' wide fan pattern out about 25'. Now if I can just get ahold of Mike's $12 DS'er that does about 3:1 draw I'll be set.

[Mike Williamson 198]

Well I should clear up and end my intrusion into this debate by making some corrections to my priors..never read spray tip markings without proper light..haha.

The Spray Systems Washjet tip I refered to is a CSSS 0080. Will be good as a mid distance rinse tip on hand wand. Too hard to hold on extension wand...

Found the problem why my spray not being smooth and sharp compared to others. The rollover gizmo to run and select between two tips on single wand was causing problem.

Once I removed it from my wand I gained at least 25% more power! Guess the only thing we want on end of wand is a nice smooth path with full volume right before tip. I was able to move up to a 25 degree tip as my standard flat work tip and now the hose barb method for shooting distance works like a charm as well. Can shoot about 35' over the peak of my roof with a stainless barb and a very slightly sqwished brass one is giving me a nice 3' wide fan pattern out about 25'. Now if I can just get ahold of Mike's $12 DS'er that does about 3:1 draw I'll be set.

Check with Paul Kassander (I think he's the resident espec guy). The ones I ordered that have worked very well for me are part # 5005C, priced at around $12.00.

I hear Bob at PressureTek also sells some good ones.

[Tmrrptr 164]

Hello to group

I'm new to hi-tech and trying to learn thank you . . .

Jeff sez xjet is good

I love the Xjet it make me a lot of money

I'm all for that..

Ken sez NO its hocus pocus

But Dan finds a time and place for both options...

I want to wash a tract of BIG 2 story homes and they are TALL.

Some up to 3 stories and better w the build ups.

I would like to do a nice job for the folks, as they've always, (well, usually, for the most part) been good to us while we did the pickup, repairs, and warranty work once the homes sold.

Basically housewashing stucco + some painted hardiboard.

And then there are the rats w/wings who also moved in . . .

Will that Xjet get chems up to a hi ridge on the gable ends?

do I need xtenda poles or looong lance?

I have a PW from HD that everyone seems to hate, but it performs flawlessly and has never let me down. it has paid for itself and made us money.

i can see where it is time to get a bigger, better machine.

Is 3500 better than 3k for the Xjet? @4gpm...

Which PW to buy? Eagle looks good and BE

They are bolt together parts, to me.

Honda 13hp, I will be cold for now, 4gpm, but which pump does everyone love to hate?

CAT looks dandy, but general, comet, and AR also seem good.

Which one holds up best and which has best warranty solutions and parts shipments.

Who uses dual lance? What kind is favored?

I'd like to learn abt foaming nozzles...

From what I can read, NOT needed for housewash, but foam on the front of a home being cleaned has a nice big impact on Suzie homemaker when she sees you working diligently.

What kind of lite sealer could be applied after a quality wash job?

and what to do w those pigeons!

r

[Keth 15]

Very similar to Ken my path to DSing has taken slight improvements over time and I feel I have a good system.

There is a place for an X-jet in the toolbelt of the DSer. It is the best rinsing tool going if you don't want to go back to the trailer.

Here is how I wash a typical house without a screened in porch. I use a short 12" gun that works for everything except a chimmey on a three story house. I have a toolbelt on that contains the following tips.

2540 for low soaping.

0040 for high soaping.

6540 for deck and railing soaping.

X-jet for rinsing.

Yes, there are a few other tips in there but I rarely use em. 2510 for cleaning dirty decks etc.

I have a chem tank on the trailer that is full of housewash mix and is plumbed to my downstreamer. It has a three way ball valve that can pull mix or turn it the other way to pull fresh water from the big tank to rinse out the downstream injector.

I start with the X-jet on my gun and walk around two sides of the house wetting plants, windows and hot siding to cool it down for a longer dwell time. I then put on the 2540 tip and start working back along the two sides just wetted soaping everything liberally. The 2540 will get me up to the gables on a typical one story home no problem. If I need to go higher I pop on the 0040.

Now that two sides are already soaped I pop back on the X-jet but my hose is now full of soap. Instead of just dumping the soap against the foundation waiting for fresh water I prefer to put that soap to work and with the X-jet set to fan I walk back down the two side quickly misting the already soaped area with the remaining soap that is in the hose. You get used to how long it will last and time your walk to hopefully get back to where you started soaping just when the fresh water has started to flow again.

I now have two sides of the house soaped and a decent dwell time so I could start rinsing them right away or, if it is a small house I may do some gutters. Rinsing with the X-jet is a piece of cake. Open it all the way up for a straight stream and then close it just slightly to knock the core out of the stream. The X-jet has about a 1.3 orifice and wont draw soap. Start rinsing up high and as the move down the wall you turn the X-jet to fan. This is where the 12 inch lance comes in handy. It is easy to tweak the pattern from the X-jet continuously since it is a short wand. It is a pain to do this with even a 36 inch wand unless you have arms like a monkey. The overspray that many complain about with the X-jet is just a bonus here as it is fresh water and, as far as I am concerned, the more fresh water you have going all over the place the better.

Completely rinse siding, windows and plants and in about 20 minutes you have finished half the house. Repeat the steps above to soap and rinse the two remaining sides. The last 20-30 minutes is spent on gutters, cleaning the front walk from the door to the driveway (included in every wash).

For really high chimmeys or the elevated houses around here I have a 79 inch aluminum wand with an 0030 tip that gets me all the height I need. Yes, this takes a little more time as do screened in porches.

With this method I use about 5-7 gallons of housewash mix on the typical house.

[MMI Enterprises 289]

Keth,

That is a wealth of info..thanx for sharing!

The ball valve switching over to fresh water so as to clean DS is the best idea I heard ever concerning DS'ing. :)

[Chris Crowe 14]

I just started to use the X-Jet last year. I used to downstream. But I prefer the X-Jet. Just like anything else it has its good and bad points.

[MMI Enterprises 289]

Anybody got anything to say about this one:

eBay: Pressure Washer Turbo Chemical Soap Injector sim 2 Xjet (item 320096325294 end time Apr-02-07 12:55:51 PDT)

Link will be good for 5 more days but the seller chappieboy will likely have new auctions you can search out.

[MMI Enterprises 289]

Here are a few nozzle: close in 4030, a brass hose barb pinched for about a 3' fan at 25' or so, a real smooth stainless barb that is same inner diameter at both ends that gets me over my roof at about 30' to 35', and a 0008 mid pressure that gets out to about 12 to 15'.

I don't know what the size the barbs translate into but I can't wait to get the 0030 or 0040 cause they are surely smaller and should shoot way farther..

[Mike Williamson 198]

Anybody got anything to say about this one:

eBay: Pressure Washer Turbo Chemical Soap Injector sim 2 Xjet (item 320096325294 end time Apr-02-07 12:55:51 PDT)

Link will be good for 5 more days but the seller chappieboy will likely have new auctions you can search out.

If you're going to spend as much as an Xjet costs, why not just get an Xjet?

[Keth 15]

Keth,

That is a wealth of info..thanx for sharing!

The ball valve switching over to fresh water so as to clean DS is the best idea I heard ever concerning DS'ing. :)

Here is a pic. Chem tank with 3 way ball valve. Hose off the ball valve to the right goes under the deck and is plumbed to the DS injector. The other hose is the fresh water one and you can see where it goes under the deck and then up to the top of the big fresh water tank in the background.

[MMI Enterprises 289]

If you're going to spend as much as an Xjet costs, why not just get an Xjet?

Well other than assumed price difference, I don't know..that why I asking. :) Any obvious pro's or con's compared to competitor xjet?

[Mike Williamson 198]

Cheaper? They are about $150.

I've seen the original Xjet as cheap as $99.00, and that is what this is similar to. I've seen the M5 as cheap as $129.00.

I've read on this board that the average charge on a house wash comes to about $50 to $75 per hour. How much time and chemical is wasted waiting for the cleaner to go thru the line, how much time is wasted wating for the line to clear, how much quicker does the job go when you can apply the cleaner at a stronger concentration?

LOL! This argument is silly. Like maybe 5 seconds and maybe 5 cents worth of chemical. .Much less time than you're going to spend messing with your Xjet. By the time you have your Xjet set up and are ready to start soaping, I'll have a minimum of one side of the house soaped and rinsed and be spraying chems on the rest of the job. As for being able to clean quicker if you put the chems on stronger? Not in my experience. Downstreaming doesn't make the cleaning go slower.

I can usually have the x-jet pay for itself in a couple days.

Great. My downstreamer pays for itself the first job.

Pricing for house washing hasn't changed much in the 20 years that I have been in the business. But the methods(x-jet & turbo nozzle), chemicals, and equipment improvements have tremendously shortened the time it takes to complete a job, thus more $ per hour. If you have enough work lined up, make the investment, do 40 hours of work in 30, and spend some of the extra time with your wife or kids, or on the golf course. I prefer to work smart. After 20 years, it's not worth working hard.

Yes, smarter, not harder. Which is why I downstream. Much easier, more efficient, and faster. Oh, and cheaper. I use less chems, and the downstreamer is much cheaper.

[Barry M 73]

This is a good ole thread, probably the one that had the most impact on me switching from xjet to DSing. It's funny to read my old post from last year on the first page when I didn't have a clue, I was a hardcore xjetter. Not no more, DSing is the bomb.

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

Alright I want to know more about this x jet. Why is it so special I see everyone post how they use it. I want to know what it does other than shot 20-30 feet. Can you adjust the fan or do anything special? I have a .0040 tip I bought at a local shop for $15 bucks It shoots 30-40 foot 0 degrees & pulls fine downstream. I'm tring to justify spending the $$$.

After all these posts, you should have one by now. :)

We use the M-5 version.

Rod!~

[alvisishere 66]

Good thread, lots of good info

I have tweaking and experimenting the way I wash to get the results I need.

I can now downstream gutters 2 and 3 stories up and clean them without brushing most of the time, problem is when I try to use the same mixture on the home it will not clean by doing a light rinse with a 1/4" hose barb. So I have to use xjet to wash home.

Just a note I have always used xjet and just started dsing and one thing I have done is put my injector below my handle with a with a quick connect set up that attaches to my no spill xjet bucket....when I want to rinse home(or rinse out injector) I turn valve off and disconnect qc. You can easily wash with injector below gun with about 3-4 ft of line hanging from injector(qc) so it won't drag ground.

this way you have immediate soap, don't have to wait to travel thru 200+ hose, injector will work with 500+ft hose.

Don't like to carry a 5er around the house for downstreaming....try this ....That 4 ft you got hanging from your injector at your gun....drop it in a gallon of soap...spray in one hand with 12'' wand and carry gal jug in another. One or two gallons should was a reg ranch home.

Let me know if you try it and tell me if it works for you, maybe we can tweak it more!!!

[Doug Dahlke 114]

I keep thinking about DS but still x-jet. Only DS once and that was using a variable pressure wand and soaping some concrete. My big concern is that most houses down here are on at least a one acre lot. I usually park my rig in the street and routinely have 200'+ of hose out. Some of these houses can be pretty nasty and I don't think I could pull enough chem to clean them.

[Joe Ortiz 14]

I just bought my first x-jet m5 because i played with the d/s and the chems are weaker. cant figure out the ratios.i will be getting it in today. and then its time to work. so ill post up my opinion after i have used both. im not saying downstreaming hasnt worked for me though.just looking for something better.