defurring and sanding tools

[clean kentucky 14]

1. I would like to know what you guys are using for defurring decks and what sanders are used? 2. What type of sander can you get into tight places with (where the spindles meet the top of the rails on the outside of the deck) 3. Where can I buy these tools at? Thanks!!!

Doug Baker

Baker's Pressure Washing

270-268-1694

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

1-Makita variable speed buffer 7" for defurring, you can buy the pads from Tom Vogel @ ACR Products. We also use DeWalt orbital sanders.

2-The kind holding a piece of sand paper in between a few fingers and rubbing vigorously. :lol:

Seriously, I have not found anything worth while to get into these tight spots. I make sure the wash/strip is attending especially to the areas under the handrails where it is the most difficult to reach.

3-Aside from the answer in #1, you can find most of these other tools at your local dealer or on-line. Hopefully others will chime in with some sources that they have gotten great prices on.

Rod!~

[RPetry 564]

Doug,

I agree with Rod 100%. Their may be some power sanders for tight places but plain sandpaper and elbow grease works. Sanding pads can also work to get rid of spot fuzzies.

Take care on using the Makita and defelting pads on cedar. It is easy to over buff or burnish the wood.

For any species of wood, 60 grit paper is the highest I personally will use. As with burnishing cedar, you do not want to close up the pores or cellular structure of the wood. This makes stain penetration difficult and spotty.

Klingspor makes very high quality, long lasting sandpapers. Available on line purchasing, do a Google search.

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

For any species of wood, 60 grit paper is the highest I personally will use. As with burnishing cedar, you do not want to close up the pores or cellular structure of the wood. This makes stain penetration difficult and spotty.

Exactly! Well put!

Beth

[daryl 14]

what makes the wood start furring

[Richard 17]

Applying the cleaner or brightner with to strong a dilution, and or to long a dwell time, and or to much power, and or getting to close.

I think I've got you covered.Anyone else??????????

[RPetry 564]

Daryl,

Richard covered the basics. Furring of wood or "fuzzies" for those of an idyllic nature with still warm feelings for their teddy bears, has a whole bunch of reasons.

First and foremost for woodies, is using too much water pressure from the tip onto the wood. My vote for second would be wood species and condition when treating. Western red cedar, especially old, untreated, and exposed to a lot of sun will fur up pronto. Put your killer tip on and try to fir ipe. Can be done but the point is different wood species and constitution. PT wood, even old and untreated, does not fir anywhere near what cedar will.

Stripping enhances firring. A very hot NaOH stripper can turn wood into a Chia pet. If you don't know what that is, you are too young. Jeeze, I can think of another half dozen reasons. Someone else please chime in.

[tropical wave 22]

too strong stripper mix, too long dwell with the stripper, too much water pressure with the machine......cedar furs easier than the rest, I think its all been covered as far as the basics go.....

removing the fuzz, I use the same makita 7" buffer/sander with the 3m pads (be careful with exposed screw/nail heads as just one will shred a pad fast) so will cracks in the wood if the pad fibers grab them.......doing spindles with it is pretty hard, as it gets kind of heavy quickly. as far as spindles go, take an old pad (easier to bend) wrap it around the spindle and do it by hand...not really easy, but effective, and make sure you wear gloves as splinters you will get !!!

I have a sander that has a small triangle tip on the end, its a tight place finishing sander, its fairly useless, so Im glad it was a cheap one. I also use a makita random orbit for spindles and railing......all with 60 grit or smaller numbers

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

dry exposed wood will fuzz too.

Rod!~

[hydro Tek Man 14]

Doug you can use defelting pads on the deck and you can get a variable speed knock off buffer from Harbor Frieght Tools . Getting in between those spindles I do not have a good answer for . Or you can buy a brand name buffer like Makita .

Tom Vogel

ACR PRODUCTS INC.

610-253-8005

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

One thing you can do with the defelting pad, you can hold it in your hand and rub it in tight corners or work it up and down between spindles either on the tool or off. Works pretty well.

Beth

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

I have considered one of those spinner attachments for a drill that has flapping sandpaper on it but often talk myself out of it due to uncertainty of the durability. It makes sense that it can get into some tight areas but how long will it last is my biggest hurdle.

Rod!~

[PressurePros 248]

We did a job today (PTP) that had furred horribly. It was supposed to be one day clean and seal. I used sodium percarbonate downstreamed, very little dwell time and a 6510. with long, smooth, rapid washing action. You can't always predict what causes the fuzzies. Rod nailed it. This wood was year and a half old new construction that was in direct sun morning to night and was never treated.

We use Osborne brushes to buff.

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

Ken,

In pic #1, I am noticing you are using duct tape to hold plastic up, don't you get frustrated when its breezy?

Nice job in #3 :cool: I bet the lattice was a PITA factor in itself.

Side note here, how do you like the little giant ladder pictured in the middle?

I have a couple of Krauss multi-fold ladders that are reaching the end of their service life after only 5 years.

Rod!~

[PressurePros 248]

We don't usually use duct tape, I didn't even notice that. I was at the dollar store the other day and loaded up on a few rolls. I guess the guys saw it and figured it was fair game. What do you use, Rod? We usually use masking tape. Have you found anything that holds better and deosn't leave residue?

I love the ladder..great for interior work too.

and yes, that lattice was a little tedious.

[JEAPAINT 14]

I use a Little Giant ladder all the time. It's great!!!

Doug

[clean kentucky 14]

Has anyone ever used a Dremel to get into tight places. I have tossed the idea around. Reason for the question in the first place is that I stripped a deck this week that Had Thompson's, CWF, and Olymic thrown on top of each other. Never stripped in between. Don't ask me what they were thinking. I had to strip it twice with HD-80 at full strength. Needless to say it furred more than average. Good thing is that all the stain came off. This is going to be my first WTW job. I will post pics when finished.

Ken, does the wagner HVLP in the pic spray WTW very good?

Doug Baker

Baker's Pressure Washing

270-268-1694

B

[PressurePros 248]

Doug, Yes, it is good for spraying tight areas where you don't want a ton of overspray. It has a nice flow. They break too often too use for every job but they are good backups.

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

Loparex makes a product called 'Pre-taped' Plastic masking. It comes on a roll 8'X75' with tape on one end. We roll it out onto the siding as high as we can reach and use 2" blue painters tape on the bottom applied with half the tape stuck to the siding, the top half left loose to tuck the pre-taped plastic behind and it makes a great seal. Wind doesn't get behind it so well and it has a static cling that helps tremendously. There is no residue afterwards from either tape. Our local Sherwin Williams stocks it. I hope that gives you a starting place if you are interested. Call me if you need a better explanation than I can type this morning before dispatching our crews.

Rod!~

[Neil_Asheville 114]

Lowes used to carry the Duck brand mask Rod mentioned. Now they have an off brand or private label version. Looks like pre-taped SaranWrap with the roll and perforated edge. Works great, especially on vinyl siding. The static cling is nice. The store here has them on display at the paint counter, not on the aisle shelf.

Support your local paint store first if you can.

/neil