Overkill?

[RyanH 14]

I have a bed from my great-grandparents (made around 1910) that I'm currently in the process of stripping. The thing is, though, it looks to have 6 or 7 layers of paint on it as well as the original stain. It takes 4 applications of stripper before I'm down to the wood then I have to remove the stain after that. Is there any benefit to using something like HD80 on this and finishing the job quickly? Or is this overkill? I'm almost positive it is oak judging by the grain type and color (after stripping down to wood). It has many slats and is really just a pain in the butt to strip.

Also, any thoughts on using something like Wood Tux on indoor furniture? I'm in the process of desigining furniture for our baby's room and am looking for something to stain it with. I have experience building but never really stained anything before. I'll be making it out of oak as well unless I can find a supplier for furniture-grade teak, mahogony, or ipe (i'd love to use some of these materials on it).

[PressurePros 248]

Ryan, you will never get an exterior finish (product) to look as good as an interior one. Different types of pigmentation, penetration etc.

I would use a neutral stripper (non methlyene chloride). There are products out there that with a 24 hr dwell time will eat through everything. I would not put water on interior furniture either. Raises the grain. HD-80 has surfactants in it that make it soapy.

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

Ryan, look at a high end furniture finish, or interior product.

Your exterior products won't give you the finish you are looking for.

Beth

[RyanH 14]

Okay. I appreciate the input.

[Adrian 155]

my .02. I would not use hd 80 unless you can cut it down and not make it such a hot mix. It could very well fur up the finish, even with all those coats.Outdoor stains will take several days for the odor to dissapate sp?. You don't want that odor in the house with baby around. Plus there is an after odor with the neutralizer as well.

Try finding some info on "Fornby" ??? products, they are geared for indoors I believe.

[tunatussle 14]

Take it to an antique furniture refinish shop and have it dipped.

[Grime Dawg 14]

I'll be making it out of oak as well unless I can find a supplier for furniture-grade teak, mahogony, or ipe (i'd love to use some of these materials on it).

Ryan,

Check out http://www.eisenbran.com for more hardwoods than you could believe are available. Be careful though, because many exotics are toxic. As are many wood finishes.

A great 'highlight' wood to use with oak is 'Bocote'. It's a sustainable wood grown in Mexico, and reasonably priced.

Any wood used for interior furniture 'should be' kiln dried for dimensional stability, but I have used some air dried with good results.

-Todd-

[Grime Dawg 14]

...ALL furniture is a PITA to strip.

I like the 'take it to an antique shop and have it dipped idea'.

It's next to impossible to get all the paint and crud off at joints and in any detail areas without buggering up the wood.

Also, try Watco finishes (Light or Medium Walnut looks good on Oak). http://www.rustoleum.com/brand.asp?frm_brand_id=23&SBL=1

They are fantastic. Easy to use and look great. They contain natural oils so you don't even have to add any top coat unless you want to.

-Todd-

[RyanH 14]

Todd,

Thanks! Great input. I'll look into that company and shippinig (coming from CA to GA for heavy wood is going to be pricey I'll bet).

Thanks for the dipping idea, too, Randy. I'll check around to see if there is any place around ATL to have this done.

[Richard 17]

I'll second Todd on the watco products. I'm actualy a cabinet maker by trade, and have used quite a bit of the watco and minwax finishes. Just be carefull of the rags when you're done with them. We had a scenario one night and the self combustion was happening at 4am when I woke in my bed to remember I hadn't soaked them or put them outside. (that was luck).

You can buy a clear lacquer at sherwin williams and apply it with a cup gun.

Comes in mat, semi, or high gloss.

[RyanH 14]

Richard,

Thanks for the confidence in those products. When I go to the store I'm always hesitant to trust the sales guys because they take what I tell them I'm looking for and read the labels to see if it contains my critera, then they make their recommendations upon that. Pfft. It's good to hear from a tradesman on products that work for them.

You know, I've always been one to believe that there aren't any coincidences in life and that we come across people in places for particular reasons. Your info pegs you at being in Oakville, Ontario, Canada. Canada is a pretty big place with lots of potential for industrial locations. As life would have it, though, I should be in Mississauga sometime in the near future for some work. Looking at the map, Oakville and Mississauga are very close together. Perhaps, if schedules permit, I can drop by and see a professional's shop and perhaps buy you a few rounds for the opportunity. I'm such an amateur when it comes to woodworking but I have many years to get better....it'd be cool to see a craftsman's setup.

Ryan

[Richard 17]

Ryan

I sold my furniture business years ago, but still have a decent setup at my house.Table saw will cut at 39" at the fence,air nailers,compound mitre saws,all the dato blades,drum sander,routers........I also have a friend in town that has a nice oporation if your interested. If you can squeeze it in your trip, I'm sure I can find the time to get together. Mississauga is the town next door. Miss's population is about 800,000. Needless to say it's quite big. What kind of work will you be up here for???? Where abouts in Miss are you going??? Any idea what sort of time frame. I go island hoping mid Jan-beginning of March.

[RyanH 14]

I should be up mid to late march. I'll be commissioning some equipment at the BPB plant up there. I've never been to the plant, but satellite pictures show it adjacent to Lake Ontario (I guess they have a shipping port to bring in the raw materials).

[Richard 17]

Ryan

BPB plant???????????? There is only a couple places for the tankers to dock. They are only 20-30 mins from me, I just drive straight down Lakeshore Rd.I live two houses off of Lakeshore rd.

Mid March works for me. How long will you be up here???

[Richard 17]

no idea why but this showed twice

[RyanH 14]

Ryan

Mid March works for me. How long will you be up here???

If all goes well I should be there for no longer than about a week. I'll make it a point to stop by if it won't be an imposition and you have some interesting equipment. Currently all I have is an old radial arm saw from my granddad and a sliding compound miter saw. Also a router and a few drills, misc. saws and some clamps. You could say my shop is a work in progress and is usually built only as necessity dictates (about to add either a jig saw or band saw and a drill press).

[Richard 17]

Boys and there toys. Nothing like a good excuse to by another tool.

[CSPW 14]

Hello

[Ron Strickland 14]

Ryan,

Dumon Chemical makes a product called "PEEL AWAY". It is a poltice application and they claim it will take away several layers at a time.

We sold it at Xterior Sales and Service and had good results.

Glaxo Smith Kline used it to strip interior doors.

Search Dumon on the internet or call Mike Baker at Xterior. The number is 919-779-7905. He might have inventory.

[Grime Dawg 14]

Currently all I have is an old radial arm saw from my granddad and a sliding compound miter saw. Also a router and a few drills, misc. saws and some clamps. You could say my shop is a work in progress and is usually built only as necessity dictates (about to add either a jig saw or band saw and a drill press).

Ryan,

Definately go with the band saw, if you plan on doing larger type work.

You'll find a table saw to be a real workhorse for you. To get started even a cheap 'tabletop' variety from HD can do fairly good work if you build your own fence and other jigs, and use the right blades.

And a cheap router table (with a homemade fence) and a good assortment of bits can produce amazing stuff that you can be proud of.

For years I subscribed to WOOD Magazine and I have to say, you can really learn a lot from that publication...I highly recommend it.

Knowing how to make your own jigs, fences, etc. is invaluable in a woodworking shop, and they will show you tons of that kind of stuff in Wood Magazine.

By the way, expect to spend a WHOLE LOT MORE on all the small stuff you'll need in your shop than what the bigger pieces of equipment costs.

I bought a used Craftsman Lathe with workbench for $40.00 and have invested well over $500.00 in the lathe tools, chucks, centers, etc.

And for all the different clamps and whatever you'll need, you just can't beat Harbor Freight.

I've been into woodworking for many years. If you have any questions, feel free to ask!

-Todd-