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I have one of the square water "IBC tote" tanks. It's 275 gallons with the metal cage built around it. Can these be safely mounted on a trailer? I've seen them on some trailers, but have not seen how they're fastened. It has like a metal pallet built into it on the bottom. I was told to use 4 u-bolts on each corner, but that just doesn't seem like it's enough. Any suggestions?

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just straps or turnbuckles in the pallet holes.. it aint going no where...they don't bolt them when they ship the original chems around in them. They use them all over the place out here in the oil industry. I have pallet jack and drop leaf axle on my little trailer and plan to get one of them one of these days for a C note.

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I used tie straps for mine I think u-bolts will hold it just fine

just one thing about them tanks the walls on them are not that thick I think it will bust one day but hey I get em all day long for $30-50 bucks

I just went to the T.S.C store and got a 125 leg stand tank for my chem and paid 225 for it..so the cage tank works fine

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I have used these 275 gallon totes for a year or better.Never had one bust and I just keep about 50 gallons of water in them with no tie downs and they don't move.Just need to rinse them out with bleach to keep the algae down...

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I have used these 275 gallon totes for a year or better.Never had one bust and I just keep about 50 gallons of water in them with no tie downs and they don't move.Just need to rinse them out with bleach to keep the algae down...

Rear end someone and the last thing that will go through your mind will be that 275 gallon tote tank you didn't see a need to strap down.

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Scott, been watching Mythbusters?....They did that with all sorts of items...Forget which item was meant to be tested to see if it would kill ya but things like paint cans, hammers, and 5 gal buckets will apparently do ya in too....:bullistic:

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Guess I forgot to mention my tote is mounted in front of my skid unit and behind my large tool box. Lets see 50 gallons @ 8lbs per gallon plus the weight of the unit it should not move much....If you had an open trailer with nothing else to hold it in I can see the need to strap it down especially if it stayed empty.....

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Rear end someone and the last thing that will go through your mind will be that 275 gallon tote tank you didn't see a need to strap down.

In another life I drove trucks, in the oilfields.

Sent to refinery w 3 axle tractor and 40ft flatrack... load is waiting.

So I get there and they almost fill my 40ftr with 55gal drums of oil !

I call the office on radio, how am I gonna keep these things on driving through Los Angeles Fwy system ?

Answer was: just throw a couple boards on top and pass a rope over boards to hold em down, those drums aren't going anywhere unless you get in a wreck. You aren't gonna get in a wreck, are you?

150 miles home, in stop and go traffic for half the trip, and not one of those drums moved 1/2 inch ! No sideboards, nothing but two 1/2" poly ropes x'd over the load so I could say I had something on there.

r

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I had a panic brake situation and my 1 x 1 tank cage that is welded to the tubed steel trailer frame cracked on both sides from the weight of the water in the tank.

Straps are okay for a quick fix, but these really need to be secured in a safe way. Had I had cheap starps like i see on most trailers, or no straps at all, then the tank may have launched the skid into the back of the truck.

Normal driving is one thing, an accident or sudden stop is another. Play it safe the first time.

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Yes, best to plan for the worst case scenario, if at all possible.

If I had a choice with a tank, I would use U bolts with strap as a secondary safety device.

Never-the-less, with my cargo of freight, bottom line is, nothing would have stopped those drums from flying if an impact occurred. Not customary sideboards, or an enclosed van. The only thing I've seen that is serious is the headache rack pipe haulers and loggers use.

I've heard milk is difficult to haul, can't have many baffles, or it turns to cottage cheese, and fish, is bad. No baffles at all.

Well, a bolt is better than a weld. It can bend and still hold. A strap has elasticity, and has give and take that could crystallize a bolt.

Probably best to run as empty as possible, if only for mileage reasons.

r

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Hello One,

So how do you handle it ?

Fill at "shop" before route?

Buy water along the way?

Fill at 1st stop,

Or grab water along the way for dry jobs coming up?

BTW, anything new in the world of recycling water?

r

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Hello One,

So how do you handle it ?

Fill at "shop" before route?

Buy water along the way?

Fill at 1st stop,

Or grab water along the way for dry jobs coming up?

BTW, anything new in the world of recycling water?

r

I rarely ever fill at home. In the last year, I have only filled once at home, and I also never buy water at anytime for washing.

I keep both tanks full most of the time, hook up at places that have water and run on tanks at places that do not. Many places only have 1 or 2 spigots and they are far from where I am cleaning. I do not see it practical to use 500 feet of supply hose, when I can just roll in full and get the job done, and use that hose dragging time to get more work done.

The wear and tear from hauling water is extremely minimal in comparison to playing hose jockey and the wear and tear on me from that.

Recycling water is the same as always, a dirty job.

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GM Alan,

So far I'm using 50-100ft direct feed hose to pump and my 100-150ft pressure hose will get anywhere on my res jobs I need to be.

But I can see I'll need to get tanked soon.

Probably get one of the Mauser IBC 275 totes.

Probably buy a used trailer.

Yes, my setup time IS too long! Far too long.

As anything else, takes money to make money!

r

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