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    • Beth n Rod

      The Grime Scene Terms Of Service and Forum Rules   08/23/2007

      Terms of Service Warning: The contracting trades are an activity in which there exists the potential for serious injury or death. ALL Users must read and agree to these Terms of Service before using this site. This web site is dedicated to the contracting trades, an activity which is inherently dangerous. You should not depend on information gleaned from this site for your personal safety. Your safety depends upon your own judgment based on competent instruction, experience, and a realistic assessment of ability. There are no warranties, either expressed or implied, that the information on this website are accurate and reliable. Your use of this site indicates your assumption of the risk of death or serious injury and is an acknowledgment of your own sole responsibility for your safety. The following terms and conditions are in reference to the The Grime Scene web site and discussion board (www.thegrimescene.com), here in referred to as "The Grime Scene". These terms and conditions apply to all sites, services, and resources within the The Grime Scene. ACCEPTANCE OF TERMS The Grime Scene provides its service to you, subject to the following Terms of Service (referred to as "TOS"), which may be updated by us from time to time without notice. You may review the most current version of the TOS at any time in the Announcements. In addition, when using particular The Grime Scene services, you shall be subject to any posted guidelines or rules applicable to such services.
      [*]DESCRIPTION OF SERVICE The Grime Scene provides users with access to informational resources including communication and interactive resources pertaining to the contracting industry. Under no circumstances shall The Grime Scene be liable to any user on account of that user's use or misuse of the site or reliance on the site. Such limitation of liability shall apply to prevent recovery of direct, indirect, incidental, consequential, special, punitive and exemplary damages (even if The Grime Scene has been advised of the possibility of such damages). Such limitation of liability shall apply whether the damages arise from use or misuse of the site or reliance on the site, from inability to use the site, or from the interruption, suspension, or termination of the site or services offered on the site (including such damages incurred by third parties).
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  1. 1 point
    Beth n Rod

    Cleaning recommendations

    Yes. No higher than 80 grit for outdoor surfaces. Better penetration. 60 is typical in our practice due to the buffing brushes we have in that grit. This process also helps to lessen some of the un-eveness of coverage by furniture and other seldom moved items. Staining (adding a pigmented sealer) is a preferrence. Also helps to stave of UV greying and degradation depending on the opacity of the stain being applied. Toners-little opacity, semi-transparent stains-more opacity. Semi-solid greater opacity and solids are totally opaque. Clear sealers are in the vein of toners which have little to no opacity for UV protection regardless of what they state on the label. Rod
  2. 1 point
    Beth n Rod

    Cleaning recommendations

    General practice after applying any product that is on the alkaline side is to apply a neutralizer. While percarbonates become inert after they exhaust themselves, the pH is still alkaline. Stains/sealers are designed to go onto wood that is in its neutral state which is acidic in nature. Wash, rinse, neutralize, rinse. Rod
  3. 1 point
    Beth n Rod

    Cleaning recommendations

    Yes. Clean it first, wait till dry then apply. First coat on new wood is going to look much lighter than on older wood because the fibers are still very tight and don't absorb as well as when loosened up by aging and lignin/extractives depreciation. When you are to perform subsequent maintenance applications, clean with oxyclean if is it just mold. If algae develops, skip the oxyclean and use bleach and water instead. (oxyclean and bleach don't get along in a mixture) Brush and then rinse thoroughly or use a power washer to speed up the process but remember you aren't trying to remove the color. Some may anyway as there are no significant binders to hold it on the surface and UV degradation will make it easy to remove. Once clean, neutralize and rinse thoroughly and allow to dry. Re-apply A/C and if mildew is a problem in your environment, you can also use a small amount of Japan Drier in Only What you think you can apply. Not the whole container. This will help the product set up faster and give less time for nature to deposit things that promote mildew regrowth. Yes, still use a mildewcide in only the new container you have. Not the used/partial one you may left over from prior applications. Any remaining product (hopefully very little) should be disposed of once a drier has been added. The product loses its properties in the can and when you go to use it later, it will not work as designed. This is why I state to only add it to what you think you will apply. If you need a little more you can still add it to that amount required. Keep what comes in the can in the state it was once opened (except the mildewcide if you add it. That does not hurt the formula). Rod
  4. 1 point
    Beth n Rod

    Cleaning recommendations

    Since you are using Pt Pine, you can seal it within 2 weeks of installation according to the American Wood Preservers Association, the organization that sets the guidelines for pressure treatment in wood. If you are going to wait that long, your exterior environment will be a dictating factor on what you will need to do. Oxy clean is easy enough for just gray wood and some mildew growth. Neutralizing with an acid is recommended. I am not sure what stores you have in your neck of the woods but look for a product that has either Oxalic or Citric acid and is designated for use on decks. If you are looking for more specifics, try https://www.opwdecks.com/ If your deck environment has high moisture conditions from a pool, hot tub or pond/water feature or sits really close to the ground and has little to no air passage beneath (less than 2' results in pockets of dead air and high moisture retention) then you may have to look into an additional mildewcide to help stave off mold growth during the drying period which with A/C can be anywhere from 2-5 days depending upon how much sun and shade you have. More sun, less dry time. Rod
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