Advice spraying Ready Seal? 1st day Tommorow... Pics Attached

[fireandrain 39]

Hey Guys, hope you all are having a great weekend! So I got my first batch of Ready Seal Med. Redwood in last week.. Tomorrow is going to be my first spray with this famous stuff! I'll be spraying 2 suspended redwood decks, spindles and rails as well. Ive attached some pics from last week's cleaning for your amusement. I cleaned with EFC-38 and brightened with Citralic. Going to spraying with my deckster

Any last minute advice on spraying the Ready Seal? I usually spray suspended deck spindle (back-sides) first, leaning over the rails technique.

Any help would be great, would really boost my pre-game confidence goiing into this. Thanks!

[seymore 90]

So you are staining the deck and not the lattice?? That's gonna stand out like a sore thumb!

Why would you spray it?? being it's so small just brush it in or paint pad it..it's gonna take you longer to cover the house w/ plastic. You just brush 2 coats or 3 till the wood looks rich.

[fireandrain 39]

well, Client didn't want lattice stained.. shes growing vines on the lattice. Yeah, I agree, but couldn't talk her outta it... whadya gonna do? Actually, I didnt include the picture of the 2nd deck. Its about 4 times the size of the small suspended. Depending on the wind tomorrow, I may be painting in the smaller of the 2 decks. Heres a pic of the 2nd deck, it bumps out from the house a good 30ft. so spraying shouldn't be an issue, wil cut in the first few deck boards by hand though... oh, also those stairs, right up against the house...

[seymore 90]

Yeah i know what you mean it's a vine pull em out they gonna grow back in no time just add water!

That deck floor looks blotchy or is it just me?

Was it jsut grey before cleaning no old stain?

You just need to spray the first coat light and even then the second coat med. to heavy as needed in dryer areas.The wood is gonna soak up the first coats pretty good.The deck should look rich and even from the oil it may take more than 2 coats especially on the deck floor.Cover all them friggin plants and you're good to go and spray.

[PressurePros 248]

If the deck is dry in that second set of pics, Shane is right. That's not gonna stain well.

[PressurePros 248]

Then again, it will still look better than 90% of what is outputted as professional work out there (in the field) anyway.

Try using bed sheets tacked over the railing so you don't get saturated with stain when you are doing the outside rails. Then just flip them over to catch overspray on inside rails.

[bigchaz 157]

To hold the sheets on the rails and spray over like ken was saying

[fireandrain 39]

If the deck is dry in that second set of pics, Shane is right. That's not gonna stain well.

Actually, deck was still wet, and the pic is pre-brightener.. Looks much more uniform pre-staining. great tip on the bedsheets technique....i imagine that sheet is going to be pretty well soaked with ready seal when im done with the spindles... any suggestions as to what i should do with these soaked sheets when im done? (besides light them and toss them in Bin Laden's cave that is...)

[fireandrain 39]

To hold the sheets on the rails and spray over like ken was saying

love these things! I use them to keep my guns open, saving my wrists (or whats left of them...)

[PressurePros 248]

The nice thing (as far as I have heard) is that Ready Seal is not combustible so I imagine you can just put them in a trash bag and toss them. Contact the manufacturer to be sure though.

[fireandrain 39]

Ready Seal is not combustible? Is that true? Its oil-based though,right?

[PressurePros 248]

The type of oil that it is made with (baby oil) is not combustible. It doesn't have mineral spirits either. Like I said though call Peirce (I think that's his name) to be sure. I have hear rumor through the grapevine that some things have changed. I don't use it.

[fireandrain 39]

THANKS for all of the pre-game support, appreciate it. Knocked the job out today, looks great. Love that RS! Aside from the fact that it was bloody sweltering out there today it all went pretty well. Thanks for the help guys~

[MMI Enterprises 289]

The type of oil that it is made with (baby oil) is not combustible. It doesn't have mineral spirits either. Like I said though call Peirce (I think that's his name) to be sure. I have hear rumor through the grapevine that some things have changed. I don't use it.

wow there... it is so combustible!...says so right on the label in fact. Stick a match partway to it and you'll find out. ..burns just like a kerosene lamp it does. :) Spraying it could result in a more serious flame once you get air into it.

Anyone that uses oil based stains and solvents should always keep the rags, sheets, etc. outside away from buildings and actually have both a fire extinguisher and a lidded metal fire can (trash can) on board during transportation to store them in. Many solvents can self combust in the right conditions!!

[fireandrain 39]

thanks Kevin.. yeah, read the label today before spraying RS, does say combustible. I watered down my rags and locked them in the empty RS pale. GREAT advice on the combustility of stains, where to store,transport,etc... I left a partially saturated sponge out near a pol last year, overnight... came back the next day and it was torched! burnt to a crispy lil/ knuckle of a thing..also burnt a hole though a shirt beneath it... It must have combusted overnight at some point, lucky me it was AWAY from the house or I would have been in one heap of trouble!!!!!!!!! Brings up the question of what to do long term with stain soaked rags, overalls,etc... Im thinking water em down and lock up in empty 5'ers.

[Greg R 82]

It all depends on the flash point. Ready Seals flash point is alot higher than most of your linseed based products so it would take ALOT more for it to combust. Once that flash point is reached on ANY product though you can break out the hotdogs and marshmellows.

I know... had a van burn down from tarps left in it soaked in Menwood 200. The 30 gallons of unopened menwood and 5 of gasoline really sparked the flames :)

In total I think it took 4 hours of the van sitting in the sun on a 98+ degree day for the thing to start smouldering. We had a new guy working that day and he folding the soaked tarp up nice and neat and set it in the bottom of our tarp containers (plastic unfortunately). When I returned home later the fire department was already on the way :) Ahh the memories.......

[PressurePros 248]

wow there... it is so combustible!...says so right on lamp it does. :) Spraying it could result in a more serious flame once you get air into it.

Anyone that uses oil based stains and solvents should always keep the rags, sheets, etc. outside away from buildings and actually have both a fire extinguisher and a lidded metal fire can (trash can) on board during transportation to store them in. Many solvents can self combust in the right conditions!!

Kevin, I was making a point. The RS crowd points to linseed based products as the devil and I have heard several people mention that it wasn't combustible. (Its 90% solids right? Whats in it that can cause spontaneous combustion? :rolleyes: )

Greg nailed it. It is the flash point at which it can occur. "spraying it could result in a more serious flame.." Does that make it combustible or flammable? I'm still sketchy on the differences myself. Perhaps you can look this up for us Kevin and write a dissertation on the topic? ;-)

[PressurePros 248]

One should always use an OSHA approved cannister for rag disposal and its a good idea to spray your traps down with degreaser before folding up for storage.

[MMI Enterprises 289]

Kevin, I was making a point. The RS crowd points to linseed based products as the devil and I have heard several people mention that it wasn't combustible. (Its 90% solids right? Whats in it that can cause spontaneous combustion? :rolleyes: )

Greg nailed it. It is the flash point at which it can occur. "spraying it could result in a more serious flame.." Does that make it combustible or flammable? I'm still sketchy on the differences myself. Perhaps you can look this up for us Kevin and write a dissertation on the topic? ;-)

Ken,

Am just the messenger here. I didn't write it on the label..RS did...

Was not going to be the one to knit pick on the differences between a flame, a combustion, a spontanious combustion, or an explosion. Just gonna respect it.

But so you know, spontanious refers to reactions that will happen whether you do anything wrong or not.

As to your question about whether spraying makes something more combustable rather than flamable.. Combustion is when you introduce oxygenor other gas so answer is really both. You get flame from the mix of oxygen and the solvent.

Hey if someone wants to be picky about it we could refer them to the gasolene combustion engine versus the deisel combustion engine. Different flash points yadda yadda but they still combust. One by a spark the other by heat and pressure.

So anyways, Ken your the pressure guy.. you know the difference between a combustion and an explosion.. :)

ps- I used the term 'spontanious' when speaking to the overall picture of dealing with 'many' solvents and not perticularly relating it to RS. So not sure why you imply I said such..

[PressurePros 248]

Here's the thing, Kevin. I'm not trying to break your stones (well I am a little bit) but let's use OSHA's standards or for that matter even UPS's shipping standards. The only reason I bring this up is because this past week I had an issue with shipping WoodZotic. Something that is combustible can be shipped via UPS ground with no special classification (based upon flash point). Something that is "flammable" needs special handling and is considered Hazmat. Like I said, I don't know all the caveats of definitions. I was hoping you could clear up what I don't understand.

[MMI Enterprises 289]

Well my goal here was to help people not hurt themselves is all..you know like in the field. Can't speak to shipping classifications or help you on that. But as far as the flash point thing goes it directly relates to how quik and how much the product gives up it's flammables in evaporation/turning to a gasious form...aka-volatile.. VOC content would relate to the topic.

Check it out as a side note/trivia..you know a peanut will burn but it won't flash at normal environmental conditions right? They are high in carbs (energy)/peanut oil is why they burn. Will it combust? pretty sure at some point...just harder then regular vegitable oil. That why chinese folk and turkey deep fryers use it. During a spill with regular oil air combines with it to combust/burn at lower temps.

Perhaps in getting back to topic we can agree maybe the best wording to use for RS is that it is not greatly flammable.

Am not gonna throw a match in a fiver to see what happens as I've already tested a tablespoons worth and it puts out a nice mellow flame..nothing like gasoline or lacquer flashing though.

[RPetry 564]

Matt asked:

Ready Seal is not combustible? Is that true? Its oil-based though,right?

No, that is false. AFAIK, everything is combustible, differences are in temperatures where combustion takes place. Yes, Ready Seal is oil based, actually petroleum oil based. It does not appear to have the "spontaneous combustion" problem that many other oil based, particularly linseed oil based stains seem to exhibit. The flash point of Ready Seal is 140 F. but I do not know if that really means anything.

In four years of using it, and 6 years in the business, have not heard of any fires with Ready Seal use. Certainly does not mean it cannot happen.

Ken says:

The type of oil that it is made with (baby oil) is not combustible. It doesn't have mineral spirits either.

Ready Seal is not as refined as "Baby Oil". As far as I know, RS is a single step refinement of out of the ground natural paraffinic oil, most like "mineral" oil. Pure "mineral" oil is more highly refined, and is probably closest to "Baby Oil".

Ready Seal does contain mineral spirits. 15% as of the last 30 gal. shipment MSDS I received last week. And the product has not changed in any perceptible way in the past 4 years.

[MMI Enterprises 289]

Got RS sprayer?

[fireandrain 39]

wow, looks like i really opened a can of worms with this one! Great topic though, none of us want to end up in the ER or return to pick up a check from a deck job and find nothing left at the property but a chimney and a half dozen firefighters waiting around for our sorry ass to show up and "explain what happened"... So, thanks for all the input on the RS flammability issue.

On a related topic, where can a guy find some of these 'approved' metal containers in which to toss the soaked tarps,rags,disposable overalls,etc.? Cant we just toss them back in the empty RS 5'er and take to the dump?

[MMI Enterprises 289]

As I meant to say, use an extra small metal trash can...clean the items when ya get a chance and let them evaporate out.

[fireandrain 39]

sounding a bit paranoid now, but, i usually water down my rags an let em sit out. your suggesting that i plunk em in the metal can after watering down afterwards... when will they 'evaporate out'? i mean, how can they if theyre in the can covered? thanks for you input Kevin.