Beth n Rod 1,279 Report post Posted March 3, 2004 One topic that always seems to make people wince is two tone deck jobs. How many of you do two tone jobs? What do you like or dislike about them? What are the biggest challenges from your perspective? :dunno: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 reed 500 Report post Posted March 3, 2004 I do two toners. Though they require maticulous application the results are tremendous. Do I like doing them, not really. Requires alot of time, but well worth it as far as appearance goes. I do charge an arm and a leg for two tones. I figure my time is not cheap and won't charge cheap to get a job. Most of the two tones are white and natural cedar. I start by applying the white, which is Cuprinol Pastel white, first. The oil based cedar color is applied last due to taping is tough due to painters tape will not stick to oil based sealers/stains. So putting down the white first allows tape to adhere and Cuprinol will wipe clean without removing the white with mineral spirits. Reed Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Aplus 525 Report post Posted March 4, 2004 That job is superb Reed! I haven't had a two toner quite that big, but I've done my share. Actually I don't like doing them either, but they look dynamite when done, and make a lot of extra $$ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 John T 744 Report post Posted March 4, 2004 Every year I tell myself I won't do two tone decks and of course every year I end up doing a few of them...and I hate every minute of it..but the $$$$ aint bad. I also do a few solid color decks....and every year I say I won't do those either:) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Joe Chadwick 14 Report post Posted March 4, 2004 I do two tone also. They certainly take longer to do so pricing is key, something I am still trying to perfect. As Reed said do the solid color first so you can tape and also sand any solid stain that gets on any wood that is not to be coated. I use either Flood Solid Stain with E-B Emulsa bond in it or Cabot's and I add the E-B to the Cabots. I never use Latex paint it peels to readily and what a mess E-B Emulsa-bond is a 3 in 1 oil based stir in bonder/primer/sealer for acrylics and other water based paint systems. Will not change color of the paint To assure adhesion of water-based paints to chalky, dusty, porous surfaces such as fibrous plaster, masonry, concrete, bricks, old wood, Kalsomine, oxidized aluminum cladding. To eliminate costly sealers and reduces time consuming preparation and to fortify the paint and extend the life of the coating E-B Emulsa-bond does not retard the drying time of the paint to which it is added E-B-Emulsabond is available in 1, 4, and 20 litres containers Adding 25% of E-B Emulsa-bond is sufficient for most painting jobs (1 liter E-B into 4 liters paint). Poor surfaces will benefit from a 50/50 blend E-B-Emulsa-bond extends paint coverage by ensuring an even paint film and a better spread Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Beth n Rod 1,279 Report post Posted March 5, 2004 Joe, Please go back and edit out the tags. Thanks. Beth Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Paul B. 523 Report post Posted March 5, 2004 Joe, Can you clarify something for me? When you ad E-B to Cabot stain, you add it to a water based stain? Do you add E-B to the water based stain in lieu of applying Cabot's Problem Solver Oil based primer? Thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Joe Chadwick 14 Report post Posted March 8, 2004 Hi Paul, yes you can add it to a latex stain, I use it for the 1st coat of stain only. I use it for added protection on solid staining old wood decks. I hate peeling! I will still use Cabot's primer on any bare wood before I apply the 1st coat of stain. The Flood solid stain is a blend of oil and 100% acrylic latex and is self priming. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 ronnie 14 Report post Posted March 27, 2004 how much extra do yall charge? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Aplus 525 Report post Posted April 13, 2004 I don't have a set amount for the upcharge. I've done so many, I usually have a gut feeling how many extra hours it will take, and charge based on the extra hours. So if you look to earn $75/hr, and it takes 2 extra hours, the upcharge would be $150. And in case you're wondering.....yes I've underbid a few over the years and learned a painful lesson. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Gavin 14 Report post Posted June 10, 2004 Thought I'd share. The homeowner was really pleased. We 2 coated everything and that's probably why it took so long but the results were good. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 James 624 Report post Posted June 10, 2004 looks great what kind of wood and what did you use Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Gavin 14 Report post Posted June 10, 2004 It's Redwood. I would say that here in Colorado at least 90% of the decks are Redwood (the other 10% are PT or Trex). I used the Cuprinol (now it's called Woodscapes - waterbased acrylic) Navahoe White for the verts and Kwal's Superdeck Red Cedar for the top rail, posts & floor. That stuff is really high priced but customers love it and it applies really easy (2 rolls of tape later, LOL). We probably could have gotten away with one coat but I wanted the contrast to really show up between the two colors. It did take a bit longer but the quality is what I was after. The customer was so happy he tipped me and extra $50. My first tip. Cool. Just want to thank Reed and everyone on this board. Without you guys I probably would have made a huge mess and taken twice as long to get it done. Thanks again! Gavin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 reed 500 Report post Posted June 15, 2004 Gavin, Awesome looking. Well done. reed Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Gavin 14 Report post Posted June 26, 2004 Thanks to you Reed. Much appreciated! Gav Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 newlook 265 Report post Posted February 8, 2005 Could anybody post a pic of a 2 toner for me or email me one...I would like to see what it looks like. Thanks newlookpowerwash@aol.com Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Beth n Rod 1,279 Report post Posted February 8, 2005 Carlos, www.seedirtrun.com go to the gallery and click on two tone. There is a number of them for you to look at. Rod~ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 RyanH 14 Report post Posted February 15, 2005 In a few months our house will be finished and I'll be getting busy redesigning the baby deck we are getting with it (long story, but the builder wants to build houses, not decks, and won't build what we want). I'm wanting do model it kind of like the one Reed had up here awhile back. Two questions: 1.) will using the Cuprinol and WT on pressure treated pine (about all that's available around here without selling both kidneys) give a similar appearance, and 2.) considering I'm going to building the deck from beginning, would it make sense to build then stain, or stain individually first before assembly? I had thought about constructing the framed parts that are going to be white first then going back and adding the boards to be stained with the dark stain to eliminate one masking step, but would like some experienced input. I figure the deck will be around 600 sq. ft plus whatever the steps and spindles/handrails take up. Muchos thankyous. RyanH. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Beth n Rod 1,279 Report post Posted February 15, 2005 1 suggestion out of experience, avoid the cuprinol. Use cabot solid color instead. It coats better and lasts longer. I have always wanted to do as you propose with your deck and stain it before assembly...but that can be really tedious and painstaking because the whole thing gets dirty as you are builing it. My suggestion, build it first and then stain. Rails 1st, horizontals last. Use 3M 2" blue masking tape and at least 4 mil plastic for your masking. #10 tarps for ground cover. (we use the biggest ones we can get our hands on...12x15. Rod~ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 newlook 265 Report post Posted February 15, 2005 That is a sharp looking deck. I know this is about 2-tone but if I can sneak a question in..:). As mentioned in other posts, we do not get involved a whole lot with wood. I have a client that has a deck with no rails or spindles. They old stain is dark and they want it totally removed. What chemicals do I use to obtain this? Anybody? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 RyanH 14 Report post Posted February 15, 2005 Rod, Thanks for the tips. Any input on how it will work with the PT wood? Or do I even need to worry about PT seeing as how it will be sealed? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 James 624 Report post Posted February 15, 2005 Ryan the first finish is the most important. Ask your self what do you want your deck to look like in 5 or 10 years with out problems. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Beth n Rod 1,279 Report post Posted February 15, 2005 Ryan, You are already onto the answer...pt wont matter, you will still end up getting a very nice looking result. CA treated wood is the one with the most problems as the stuff leaches out of the wood and does not come off easily, chemically. It appears as a vien like look of turquoise/white that can detract from the semitransparent finish you may apply. Sanding can help this condition... Rod~ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 reed 500 Report post Posted February 15, 2005 Ryan, the brilliant white by cuprinol covers very well. that is what is on the two tone deck. one heavy coat and then a light second coat covers any PT wood characteristics. I have never had any problems with the brilliant whit by cuprinol. Reed Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Beth n Rod 1,279 Report post Posted February 16, 2005 Reed, I wonder if the manufacturer has more than one plant? Out here, Cuprinol Ultra White will not cover well and the wood keeps showing through. It takes about 3 coats to get it to look solid. For this reason I recommend Cabot. Better coverage formulation. What do you think? Inconsistency in manufacturing methods among different plants? Rod~ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 newlook 265 Report post Posted February 16, 2005 Reed, Send a galloon of the stuff to Rod and see if there is a difference. I would not think the climate would have that much of an affect on the # of coats being applied. Just a suggestion Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
One topic that always seems to make people wince is two tone deck jobs. How many of you do two tone jobs? What do you like or dislike about them? What are the biggest challenges from your perspective?
:dunno:
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