Out with a bang...

[RPetry 564]

Last job of the season, it is getting too cold here in NJ.

Full ipe' elevated deck, including ipe' stairs and balustrade. Get to the job, meet again with the customer while setting up. "Hey, would you mind cleaning and staining my teak furniture?". "Of course not, the additional charge will be X".

Good wood is a godsend. This teak is exceptional, the furniture was made in England. Second to some very old, true Burmese teak we did a few years ago, this is the finest teak furniture I have seen. We'll be staining the deck and furniture next week.

I'm going to miss doing wood for the next 5 months.

[plainpainter 217]

Will be staining a deck on Sunday - will be the last of my season as well - I know how you feel. I made big strides in the deck staining business this year.

[Adrian 155]

Sweet end of the season job Rick.

Don't forget to show us the after pics.

[JFife 14]

Rick,

That is the first good pic I've seen of a silver'd ipe deck.....and I kinda don't mind that look! Actually, if it weren't for the red spots at the top of the spindles, I'd say it looked halfway decent. I mean, nothing as good as the look of oiled ipe, but it sure isn't as hideous as other woods when they age.

[James 625]

John , some of my best looking decks are Ipe not stained only cleaned. I have a few things for next week. It should cure by next April ?

[RPetry 564]

Rick,

That is the first good pic I've seen of a silver'd ipe deck.....and I kinda don't mind that look! Actually, if it weren't for the red spots at the top of the spindles, I'd say it looked halfway decent. I mean, nothing as good as the look of oiled ipe, but it sure isn't as hideous as other woods when they age.

Jon,

I whole heartedly agree. When I met the customer for the estimate, I honestly tried to talk him out of a hard prep and staining. This ipe' was just gorgeous as is, with a very even and attractive silver sheen. The wood is 6 years old and has been kept clean. Perfect as is.

Problem was that we had done a friend's ipe' and cedar deck last month. He saw the "look" and was sold. At least he understands the nearly constant effort and cost of keeping the stained look attractive.

[newlook 265]

Rick - I figured the weather was getting cold up there in your neck of the woods. Give me a call sometime so we can catch up!!

Nice looking ipe'

[RPetry 564]

Rick - I figured the weather was getting cold up there in your neck of the woods. Give me a call sometime so we can catch up!!

Nice looking ipe'

Hey Carlos,

I had shut down wood for the season just prior to Orlando, but came back up to good weather. The next three days are forecast to be sunny and in the mid to high 60's, almost an "Indian Summer". We've got three jobs to stain, and that will definitely wrap it up for 2009.

I'll give you a call sometime late in the week, have to winterize equipment, clean out the truck, and organize inventory. Oh, and reconcile the books for the past 3 months!

[Clean Image 14]

Nice meeting you Rick!

[RPetry 564]

Nice meeting you Rick!

Same here Trevor. To be honest, I'm a bit jealous, you are young and ambitious, I'm getting older and comfortable!

You remind me a lot of when I started my first business in my mid 20's. Full of energy, *iss, and vinegar. Go get 'em, the sky is the limit!

[RPetry 564]

The wood cleaned up well. This custom built ipe' dining table has got to weigh 350 lbs.!

As is often seen on older, used ipe' decks, the floor has some dark discoloration areas, note on the right of the pic between the table and siding, and also two areas on the left edge of the pic.

I am not positive of the cause, though it may be from rusting metal furniture or items. I do know that the stains are in the ipe', they will not sand out and a "boosted" acid application does not seem to help.

Does anyone have a method to brighten these problem areas? Thanks.

Edited November 10, 2009 by RPetry

[James 625]

I have had success moving up the ladder with a stronger Acid in some cases. Then sum stains just don't *** out.

If you move to a stronger acid the complete deck will have to be done because of the color shift. I have had some very bad candle stains( burning oil lamps) this year I could not solve ? Made better !

[RPetry 564]

Jim,

I mixed up a gal. of 10 oz. of oxalic, added 2 oz. of surfactant, and spot treated the dark areas. No help in this case.

Started staining the ipe' deck today by hand, everything done with bristle brushes and lambswool pads. Forgot how much time is involved on the balustrade when not spraying! Weather permitting, we'll be done tomorrow.

The teak came out very well. Both the ipe' deck and teak furniture stained with Ready Seal light brown color.

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

You missed a spot! :lol:

KIDDING! Looks great....

Beth

[James 625]

Rick, I mean moving to a phosphoric acid then move to a hydrochloric . There is a noticeable difference going from one acid to another not making one that your using stronger. The times I've done this are rear but it works.

[RPetry 564]

... The times I've done this are rear but it works.

Diamond Jim,

Does that mean those times are behind you? Hah!

Man, I don't know. Hydrochloric actually kind of scares me, and phosphoric is another friggin' chem I have to keep track of. Doesn't seem to matter to customers with a stain over top. Guess its just exterior wood...

[fireandrain 39]

Rick,

Nice work, as always. You brushed up the furniture,no? I've always had good results spraying my teak chairs, chaise-lounges, etc. with RS. Walk away for 20 min. and hen wipe down. Great work. I like the light brown on the IPE. I've always used Med Red when working with IPE. Will have to try the Lt. Brown next season! Incidentally, I've been following your IPE test... Planning on working with AC on my next you-pay project. Love that wood. Then again, I don't build them....

P.S. Had a nice chat with Jake last night... gave me the lascivious details on Orlando. Really wished I could have made it out. Heard your presentation was top drawer.

[James 625]

Ready Seals # 80 is phosphoric based,Eaco Chem recommends to use there MD80 to neutralize after using Stripper Cream which is hydrochloric and makes a huge difference.

[RPetry 564]

Rick,

Nice work, as always. You brushed up the furniture,no? I've always had good results spraying my teak chairs, chaise-lounges, etc. with RS. Walk away for 20 min. and hen wipe down. Great work. I like the light brown on the IPE. I've always used Med Red when working with IPE. Will have to try the Lt. Brown next season! Incidentally, I've been following your IPE test... Planning on working with AC on my next you-pay project. Love that wood. Then again, I don't build them....

Hey Matt, nice hearing from you. Where have you been? Had my helper lightly sand the teak and apply the stain with a brush and lambswool. Took nearly a full day. RS light brown is my favorite on teak.

With ipe', there is not too much of a difference in initial appearance with any of the RS colors. Ipe' just seems to have a mind of its own. Medium red is also our usual choice, but the customer wanted something a bit lighter. It will be interesting to see the wood in a week or two after the oil has had a chance to settle in.

A-C worked well on my own ipe' deck. Next year, I'm going to commit sacrilege and apply the Defy water based hardwood stain as a full test. It certainly held its coloration much better than any of the other stains tested.

P.S. Had a nice chat with Jake last night... gave me the lascivious details on Orlando. Really wished I could have made it out. Heard your presentation was top drawer.

We had a blast in Orlando, sorry you missed it. Too much fun with Jake, woke up with a wicked buzz for Thursday morning's golf outing! With a roaming beverage cart on the course, managed to avoid a bad hangover until the afternoon. Could not play worth a spit, but we had a lot of fun and laughs.

The ***** convention and trade show was just terrific, well worth attending. Try to make it next year, the Jake Clark Woodies Open is becoming a legend in the making!

Ready Seals # 80 is phosphoric based,Eaco Chem recommends to use there MD80 to neutralize after using Stripper Cream which is hydrochloric and makes a huge difference.

Jim,

Never thought of trying Ready Seal's #80 brightener, and I have some in stock. Next time. I'll have to order some MD80 to try, but hydrochloric acid still kind of scares me.

[JFife 14]

Rick,

Readyseal's brightener is nothing short of amazing. No clue how they do it.

[James 625]

A tip on bad rust stains in wood is to pre treat before restoration. Just the spots. Then proceed with restoration process,

[RPetry 564]

A tip on bad rust stains in wood is to pre treat before restoration. Just the spots. Then proceed with restoration process,

Diamond Jim,

That is a fine suggestion. Never thought of that. Thanks.

Rick,

Readyseal's brightener is nothing short of amazing. No clue how they do it.

Jon,

It has worked wonders on a few problem cedar and redwood jobs. Too bad they can't make it in powder form. AFAIK, it is a combination of various acids.

Edited November 13, 2009 by RPetry

[RPetry 564]

It has been tough. Business was fine, weather has been less than ideal. Ipe' jobs have kept us working and busy. Probably done 18K sq. ft. or so of ipe' this season. Terrific wood, wonderful customers. Great wood, it dries in a flash.

Finished this 6 yr. old ipe' job yesterday. Two oilings on the horizontal wood, took a bit of parrafin oil. Will be back in late June or July to lightly clean and apply more Ready Seal light brown.

Tired, glad the wood season here in N.J. is over.