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Looking for a hot/cold water machine under $5,000 mainly looking for a skid type machine and would like it to be hot water and at least 4-5gpm min. and would prefer a cat pump but not necessary all the old timers are welcome to comment on what machine is their fav. or which machines they have had the best luck with throughout their carriers


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You all tend to go off on brand names..

It's not the "brand" that makes the reliability..

it's how it is "PLUMBED".. period.

the "beef" is about the model within the brand.. buy a "heavy" pump.. bigger rods, bigger bearings.. THAT's beef.

And, most brands have a selection of sizes to choose from, and parts prices vary "traumatically"..

example.. for 5 gpm 3000psi..

Cat 5CP5120 weighs 20lbs, valves can cost $200 per set.

AR pumps.. RK series weighs 21 pounds... valves.. $60.

CAT #56 is rated 5.5gpm tp 3500psi, and weghs 26lbs

AR RW21 ..weighs 31lbs...

difference in price.. enough to include about 10 years-worth of parts.

AR #XW can do 4000psi, weighs 34lbs, and is still less expensive than a Cat.

AR SXW is rated to 5000psi, weighs a whopping 35 lbs,

and is less expensive than the Cat 56.

Comet, General, Udor, and Giant have BEEFY pumps too..

just compare weight, and parts cost, for "Long-Term-Low-Cost".

..Got it ??

..if you want the "Snap-On-Tool, for the Sears price"..

it's NOT going to have a Cat pump.

Buy the BEEF ! ..and enjoy easier to find, lower cost parts, that are usually beefier.

..and demand that it be plumbed with a BIG feed-line (or 2 !),

a "high-volume bypass" line.. preferrebly back to a holding tank.

Now, about the heater controls..

Flow switch.. only allows the heater to fire-up, if there is actually FLOW.

..and lasts about 3 to 6 years, depending on how BEEFY is the wiring.

Pressure Switch.. only lasts about 6 to 12 months because the moving part requires seals that move, with every actuation.

they wear out. (The flow-switch doesn't have moving seals.)

Pressure-actuation is a REALLY BIG problem WHEN the pressure-actuated unloader

wears out (and becomes "sticky"), allowing pressure to fire-up the heater with NO WATER MOVING !

That, my friends, is called "the catastrophic trauma" that causes

the "catastraphic FAILURE..

"POP goes the coil ".

Even if you pay a buck extra for the FLOW-actuated unloader valve, a pressure-switch is just not as reliable.

Edited by Jerry

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P.S. I think VERY highly of Southside-Russ,

the Hinderlighters, the EnviroSpec crew,

and any other team that will deliver BEEF, PLUMBED correctly,

and back it up with real-world technical help..

before, during, AND after the "sale".

Several of my dealers are doing a very good job with this too..

you NEED it, you DESERVE it, but you might have to specify it a little. Eh ?

Respect the "Tech".

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