DIYer here: Here is what I do to clean my vinyl siding. How can I do it better/faster

[TheNoob 14]

DIYer here: Here is what I do to clean my vinyl siding once or twice a year.

Medium-sized two story house.

Craftsman 2700 PSI, 2.3 GPM pressure washer with 50' of hose.

I use Krud Kutter or ZEP all-around cleaner that feeds into the pressure washer.

I spin the nozzle to change the tip/flow/pressure. It has five settings, including one that is for the soap.

I use a ladder for the high stuff.

If there is a tough spot, I use a scrub brush on a pole.

I keep the wand pretty far away from the siding when I rinse, so I don't do any damage.

So here is the deal. It takes all day to do the house. How can I speed things up? Also, the white metal soffit and fascia does not come very clean. I use the same cleaner and amount of pressure on it. How can I better clean the soffit and fascia?

What do you pros think? How can I do a better/faster job on my house?

Thanks for any help,

Fred

[al9226 17]

You're doing better than most. The term Pressure washing is a general term given to outdoor cleaning (houses etc). Actually the pros usually reserve pressure for concrete. The way we clean a house calls for specific mixes of chemicals that are down streamed (injected in the water flow after the pump) or applied with a separate pump system and then lightly rinsed. Your method is up streaming. It is not widely used by pros because of the damage that the chemicals can do to the pumps and the amount that is actually put onto the surface. With down streaming a greater amount can be applied. We can usually clean a 2000 sq ft house, gutters and drive in two hours or less. The best way for you to speed things up would be to convert to down streaming and or using a dedicated pump (pump sprayer) to apply the chemicals.

[Rick2 42]

Yup, what he said. Don't use pressure to try to clean the house, it all in the chemicals. Save yourself some money and skip the Zep and Crud Cutter, just use a mixture of bleach and water downstreamed (not through the pump) Don't put anything through the pump execpt cold water. Lastly, to clean the metal, pick up some "Spray Nine" at Lowes or Home Depot. It's about the best thing a homeowner at purchase to clean the aluminum with. Spray it on and let it sit for a few minutes before the rinse... don't let it dry on the gutters, etc. Should only take 2 hours to clean the house.

[TheNoob 14]

THANKS! A few more question in response to yours? 1. What is an affordable down streaming system that will work with my pressure washer? 2. What about the dangers of the bleach mist? What do you wear to protect your eyes and lungs? 3. I read something on the forum about a 40 degree low pressure tip that will spray cleaner 30 feet or so. Will that work with my pressure washer? Your thoughts on the 40? THANKS!!! Fred

[A OK Pressure Washing 14]

Not trying to sound like a wise guy. Why not just hire a local cleaning contractor to wash your house? A medium size 2 story house would only take us about 1 and 1/2 hours to complete. That's with making all the aluminium nice and clean when where done. Far more cost effective to go that route than do it your self. Also if you have it professionaly it will more than likely last for a year because the mold and mildew was killed. Just my 2 cents.

[TheNoob 14]

I am an avid DIYer. It's in my bones. I would rather learn how to do things like the pros do it, than pay the pros to do it. I enjoy it. It is fun. I like to learn.

[Adrian 155]

I am an avid DIYer. It's in my bones. I would rather learn how to do things like the pros do it, than pay the pros to do it. I enjoy it. It is fun. I like to learn.

......Of course I am going to suggest a professional cleaning contractor as well.

However, I certainly respect Fred's response.

So...

Fred, you can purchase the "original" xjet setup #13 orafice package for around 125.00-150.00 dollars.

It will work on your pw.

That is if you don't decide to go with Downstreaming.

Either direction is better than the way you are applying chems and rinsing.

It will take you much longer than the vets here that have done literally thousands of resi washes.

But it will speed up your current approach vs. ladders and all the other junk solutions from the box stores.

[Russ Johnson 141]

Just to get everyone on track here...the Craftsman machine has a downstreamer on it, not upstream.

[Adrian 155]

even better

Happy 4th of July Russ

[TheNoob 14]

Just to get everyone on track here...the Craftsman machine has a downstreamer on it, not upstream.

So, I can just use what I have and go with the ZERO degree tip for applying cleaner and use a bleach mix? Get rid of the ladder by shooting the cleaner farther with the ZERO degree tip. Let the bleach mixture do the work. Then rinse?

If so, how do I protect my eyes and lungs from the bleach mist?

Thanks, pros!!!

Fred

EDIT: Changed 40 degree to 0 degree

Edited July 2, 2010 by TheNoob
EDIT: Changed 40 degree to 0 degree

[Rick2 42]

No no no no, you can't pull chemicals with the red tip, only with the black "chemical" tip. When the pump "sees" a low pressure - high volume tip, (the black one) it will start a vaccum and pull the chemicals through the small chemical hose. When you change tips to anything else the vacuum will stop and you will be only spraying pure water. Use the black tip to soak the house with the chemical and the other tips to rinse. Also, please do yourself and your doctor a favor and don't use the red tip. You really can get hurt or destroy property with it (no joke at all).

As for the bleach mist, well, I have my customers move their cars away so nothing damages the paint. I don't work if it's too windy and I really should use some sort of breathing regulator but...

I hope this helps.

[Russ Johnson 141]

No, Fred, the 0 tip won't draw soap. You have to have a large orifice to drop the pressure and draw soap. If you want a budget "shooter" tip, get a 1/4" coupler plug and a 1/4" hose barb. That'll throw the soap up high.

[TheNoob 14]

Right, I know that. I am talking about the 0 tip that Bob from Pressure Tek sells. I read about it in another thread, here: http://www.thegrimescene.com/forums/residential-pressure-washing/17596-switching-x-jet-m5-downstreaming.html

Maybe that will not work with my machine/setup?

Is the way you mentioned below the best/most affordable way for me to be able to shoot cleaner/bleach farther?

Thanks, everyone, for all of the help. I appreciate it.

Fred

No, Fred, the 0 tip won't draw soap. You have to have a large orifice to drop the pressure and draw soap. If you want a budget "shooter" tip, get a 1/4" coupler plug and a 1/4" hose barb. That'll throw the soap up high.

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

One thing to keep in mind with bleach; never let it dry on the surface.

Rod!~

[TheNoob 14]

THANKS! What do pros use to keep bleach mist out of their eyes and lungs? Nothing? Keep your distance? Thanks.

One thing to keep in mind with bleach; never let it dry on the surface.

Rod!~

[usarose 18]

Also remember this on siding - "soap up wash down". Which means....Apply your chemicals from the bottom up and rinse from the top down to avoid streaking.

[offduty 25]

If you are using chems that streak, switch chems. Soap and rinse from top to bottom. Top facia and eves are usually the worst. Soap them first and then work your way down. Saves chems by allowing them to run down the siding as you start at the top.

[577-Jersey 8]

Dont throw that red tip out!!!

Drill it out some and make a great soap or rinse tip to add to your arsenal :)

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

Or one can buy a larger orifice 0* tip. We have a 0040 and 0050 we use as shooter tips.

 

Rod