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stripping acrylics and solids

Question

Just curious what others are using to strip stains like Behr, sikkens or even latex. Being in a voc compliant state since 2009 I'm seeing more and more of these types of stains. In years gone by I've pretty much opted for a clean and coat solution because I've found the removers sub par.

I've had some success with floods wood finish remover but at $32 a gallon it's hard to keep bids reasonable

For oil decks I've used F-18, severe strip, remove to name a few but none of them work exceeding well on waterborne.

I've also tried boosting with AD633 but don't really remember how effective it was. I need an affordable, EFFECTIVE product in my arsenal.

What additives can I get my hands on to mix my own? Can you buy glycol ether? Or propylene?

Please only reply with products if you have actually used them with great success. I have people tell me all the time try this or try that only to find the stain just laughs it off.

Thanks!

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Shane, I really have to thank you. I have added butyl based degreasers to my mix, but its always a premixed product. Thanks a million times for posting that. I have it bookmarked and will be ordering next week. I have to say that your advice, both in forums and on the phone, have made me money. I truly appreciate your help.

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The few times I mixed it was about 1 cup butyl 2-3 cups hydroxide beads making a 5 gallon mix applied with 12 v pump.

 

I think a little goes along way! :cool:

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Update. .. I ordered a gallon of AD633 from Tom V of ACR products and also picked up a qrt of strip ease from menards. The strip ease comes with a little spray bottle.

I took two lbs of raw soda beads and filled the spray bottle that came with strip ease with that product. I filled the same bottle half way up with the AD633.

The strip ease didn't mix all that great with the water but overall it worked. They have a few different versions at menards, one of which is more "watery".

I have stripped two acrylic decks with this concoction so far with pretty good results. The first deck was a behr stain and I would estimate about 90% came off. The second deck was an Olympic hybrid and the results were about the same.

Caution to anyone wanting to mirror this mix. You MUST add the chemicals to the water. Do NOT put these chems in a bucket and then add water. You will get an instant boil.

Also, extra care must be taken in handling and applying. Wear a respirator, proper chemical gloves, dont apply in the wind and be extra diligent in protecting vegetation.

Mix and use at your own risk. I would not use this mix on a oil based deck.

Always do a test spot in an inconspicuous area.

Watch your dwell time carefully.

Remarkably I didn't have much in the way of fuzzies but then again I was stripping stain that was relatively in tact. Very little bare wood was sprayed.

As a side note, one of my work vans had a couple years worth of stained hand prints all over the doors. I sprayed, wiped and rinsed. The stains literally just wiped off like fog on a mirror lol.

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Well I have read about all the nights mares others have encounter while trying to remove acrylic stains so far I have been very fortunate not to have to deal with one of these nightmare that being said today I was awarded a house that has Cabot Acrylic. Per home owner they are wanting to have the house stripped and re stained with semi salad Armstrong stain which formula would work best hd80 + ad 633 I appreciate any advice. Another challenge I encountered I attempted to purchase ad 633 from acr however they are out of stock here are photos

post-6218-0-43015400-1436564286_thumb.jp

post-6218-0-89991800-1436564362_thumb.jp

post-6218-0-72152400-1436564448_thumb.jp

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One note.....that stain looks pretty intact. If you have a helper, great. You might want to pick up a stiff bristled deck brush. After a proper dwell, a scrubbing helps to break the bond....it really does.

 

Beth

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One note.....that stain looks pretty intact. If you have a helper, great. You might want to pick up a stiff bristled deck brush. After a proper dwell, a scrubbing helps to break the bond....it really does.

 

Beth

 

Agree with Beth.  That is going to be a very difficult strip.  The Cabot's looks virtually new on the rear wall and little weathered on the front of the garage.

 

We use ACR's sodium hydroxide stripper, which is similar to HD-80.  I'd test first with a mix of 12 oz./gal. of stripper, 8 oz./gal. of 633ADD or similar, and a bit of surfactant, say 3 oz./gal.  ACR sells Booster surfactant in gal. jugs.  As you are dealing with vertical/overhead surfaces, the surfactant will add a bit of "cling" to your mix and also keep the mix wet a bit longer.

 

You must keep the mix wet on the wood!  Work on reasonable sized sections, adding mix as needed.  Beth's suggestion of a stiff brush is probably going to be mandatory.  Break the bond and apply more mix!  Then keep wet with mist from your PW.

 

Do a "scratch" test, it will tell you if the stain is ready to be washed off.  It may take a while to dwell before it is ready to be removed.

 

The wood is going to fir.  Plan on a light sanding. 

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633-add is an alcohol additive that expands the range of reactivity of sodium hydroxide.
Sort of like going from dialup to broadband.

 

Meanwhile, Rick beat me to helping you out but let us know if you have any more questions.

 

Rod

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Rick is the booster surfactant the same as house wash that ACR sells I asked them today and that was what they suggested thanks Rick

Mike,

 

No.  Contractors may add it into their house wash mix, but it has no cleaning properties.  It is just a surfactant.  As I cannot post pics to TGS, the label says as follows:

 

BOOSTER Surfactant System Activated For Hot Water

 

Btw, in does work in cold water mixes.

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Rick is correct, That stain is gonna be tough.  And Like Rod said earlier " when it comes to solids affordable is not an option.  I would charge over 1 thousand bucks just to strip that one side.

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Steve thanks for the advise but I believe I already bid this house too llow so I am going to have to eat the cost. Stripping acryllics is a new territory for me so I am learning as I go.

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Mike,

No shame in that. Just starting out in wood restoration, most of us have taken more than one little no profit, or evem loss jobs. Comes with the learning territory.

One trick is to carry a few strippers when doing estimates. 1st, it is easy to tell if you have a potential nightmare. 2nd, it becomes easy to know you can do the job with the knowledge and chems you know. 3rd if you are good with mostly clueless competitors, you can get well paid.

Wood restoration is a lot different from house washing or concrete cleaning. In the right customer market, not price but quality oriented, it can be a good seasonal business. Get good and experienced, especially on difficult jobs, and you can do well.

Hard part is you have to charge for the experience, knowledge, and effort. Takes a while. But you will become more than worth it.

Edited by RPetry

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Rick believe me I totally get it. I sometimes tend to bid a bit lower when working for friends. Really appreciate all the encouraging words. Steve that is quite alright. I believe that would well worth one 1k for one side I am finding that out. Thank you guys.

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Steve

I have not started yet on the house. I just learned that they might have second thoughts because of the price. So they told me they would be possible go with a cheaper version which is wash the house and apply one additional coat of the same material.

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