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Aqua Pro

stripping acrylics and solids

Question

Just curious what others are using to strip stains like Behr, sikkens or even latex. Being in a voc compliant state since 2009 I'm seeing more and more of these types of stains. In years gone by I've pretty much opted for a clean and coat solution because I've found the removers sub par.

I've had some success with floods wood finish remover but at $32 a gallon it's hard to keep bids reasonable

For oil decks I've used F-18, severe strip, remove to name a few but none of them work exceeding well on waterborne.

I've also tried boosting with AD633 but don't really remember how effective it was. I need an affordable, EFFECTIVE product in my arsenal.

What additives can I get my hands on to mix my own? Can you buy glycol ether? Or propylene?

Please only reply with products if you have actually used them with great success. I have people tell me all the time try this or try that only to find the stain just laughs it off.

Thanks!

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Mike,

 

I'm not partial to red colored solid stains, but when I 1st saw your pics, my first impressions were:  1) the stain is in very good condition, and 2) the color kind of fits the house and actually looks good.

 

What the customer could use is a good cleaning of the concrete and deck at the rear of the home.  They are filthy!

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Rick

Tlhey also included those items to be cleaned. Also I hate to beat a dead horse going back to the Booster Surfactact, however I called ACR products and spoke with one of their employee and told him what I needed to purchase so he told me it was roof wash additive. Did I buy the right product. I have spoken to Tom and failed to ask him that question.

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Hi Mike,

I would guess that ACR Booster is commonly used as an additive to roof mixes. As well as house wash mixes. It is a surfactant.

I'm sure you ordered the correct product.

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Roof wash additive is a product to help with the capabilities of bleach.

We use it in our housewash mix for removing algae without having to make the bleach so strong it

won't rinse well.

 

633-add is the product you need to strip acrylics along with a primary stripper like HD-80.

 

Rod

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Rick

Thank you it is good to know that there are more options when it comes to purchasing this hot comodity item 633ADD. I am going to look at a IPE Brazilian deck tomorrow. The owner basically told me that the wood was very beautiful in the begining. He informed me that he used every oil or stain that is designated for this type of wood, however after application it would only last for about three month then it would turn dark. He believes the darking of the wood is caused by sun exposure. Soooo he got tired of looking at a gray deck and he applied a red Olympic Acrylic from Lowes so now he requested my services not sure what he wanted to do. He said he may go with a wash and reapply the same product or go with strip if the process is not to costly and try something else. I suggested a Clark Armstrong stain for IPE woods.

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Mike,

 

Either your customer was not prepping the ipe' correctly, or using poor quality stain.  The stain turning "dark" may be due to mold/mildew growth eating the linseed oil common in wood stains.  Consumer grade oil stains often use cheap/ineffective or not enough mildewcide.

 

And then applied a red acrylic on fine wood?  Blasphemy.

 

Dependent on climate and sun/moisture exposure, Armstrong-Clark or Ready Seal stains will last 7 - 12 months on ipe'.  A light cleaning, re application, and you are good to go for another cycle. 

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Most of the oil based stain products for Ipe require a mildewcide.
As Rick pointed out, linseed is a natural food for mold and will proliferate wildly on surfaces it is applied to.

One clear indicator is that the mold grows all the way up the rails and undersides where applied.

Normally, mold only grows in the 'splash' zones of the rails at the first 6"-10" from the bottom.

 

Rod

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Thank you Rick and Rod I appreciate the info. I met with him today and he informed me that he was not sure what route he would take as far as finishes. He also mentioned painting the deck at his wife's advise. I begged him if all possible not to do that as it would the worst decision he would make. I again suggested to him he should try an Clark Armstron or RS. He stated that he listened to all the claims of all the experts and their products and nothing seems to hold up for his deck. He further told me that the only reason he used an Olympic stain was because they garantee a five to ten years durability. I told him that there no stain that he last that long without further attention. My feeling is that he is not ready to wash and reapply stain on yearly basis. I may post some pic when I get ready to begin. In addition If he decides to go with total strip the railing rods are constructed of aluminium. What is the best way to protect the rods from descoloration when applying the stripper. You have to appy the stripper wtih a brush in between the rods to maintain their integrity. Thank you.

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Mike,

 

In all honesty, you may be dealing with one, or two idiots.

 

I'm fairly certain I'd pass on the job, unless ma and pa take some miracle common sense drug.

 

"Experts", my foot.  The only experts are those that do this this work competently for a living.  People make mistakes, they don't know and believe in some silly marketing scheme.  There is an old quote, "There's a sucker born every minute" attributed to P. T. Barnum.  Probably not a quote from him, but a critic.  After all, he made a small fortune from little of value and would never disparage his audience, and others called him out on it.

 

Look, if a customer does not want to service ipe' every year, strip it and be done with it.  A cleaning would be good once a year for appearance.  Otherwise, no stain.  Ipe' is near bulletproof.  It does not need stain protection.

 

Good luck.  There are better potential customers out there.

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