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Citriclean & Emulsifier Plus

Question

Where do you get Citriclean?

Emulsifier Plus is a floor stripper - why would you use this on house siding? And if you did how much would you dilute it?

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Citracleen is from Steve Rowlett @ RPC in Tennesee. His message board is www.thecleanernetwork.com

Very good housewash product.

never used emulsifier, but dont intend to either, Citriclean works really well....Couldnt agree more with Cujo

the catalog and info is here.... http://www.rowlettpressure.com/

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I use Emulsifier Plus and love it. In a 15 gallon barrel I mix 1/2 gallon EP and 1 gallon 12.5% sh and 13.5 gallons of water. I then use a Shur-Flo to apply. Spray on spray off no high pressure needed. I wash most houses using nothing more then a soap tip. I use shooter tips to rinse up high. I used to use a full gallon of EP per batch but I found the windows streaked much easier and had to rinse so much more. Most everything I come across just melts away. I used to use Limonene but had problems with it. It always did a number on painted front doors.

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Whether it's citraclean or other house wash mixes, sodium metasilicate, sodium hypochlorite and some suds are the key ingredients. The same basic formula can be found at several different vendors. Pre-wetting certain surfaces can help too.

Good luck!

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Emulsifier Plus is a floor stripper - why would you use this on house siding? And if you did how much would you dilute it?

You must be talking about a different product. The Emulsifier Plus mentioned here is packaged and sold specifically as a house washing product.

I have very good results with it. It is available from Envirospec.

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I don't understand this notion that Emulsifer plus is harsh on windows. I've never had a problem with it on windows. As a matter of fact, most of the time the customers make coments on how darn clean and streak free they turn out.

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That's good CCPC. In comparison to other products I have found it less forgiving on glass when it is exposed to high wind and direct sun (eg beach houses) If it works well for you in your enviroment, then you need not search any further. I'm just throwing out my experience.

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I have been using Powerhouse. It's a nice mix and it works very well on gutters blended a little stronger. It's not as harsh on glass as the E-Plus.

Powerhouse as in Butyl Caustic? Be careful with it. I did a number on some glass that didn't get rinsed properly...

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If allowed to dry on glass, Emulsifier Plus can really make some nasty white streaks that are tough to remove. It can happen in less than a minute on hot sunshiny days.

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I'm really lost. Maybe it's just the dirt, grime, mold in my area, but I use pool chlorine, Dawn detergent and jet dry and a $400 house wash will cost me $8 and take 2hrs and come out looking phenomenal. Now, why is everyone paying all this money for these house wash chems, someone please enlighten me.

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I'm really lost. Maybe it's just the dirt, grime, mold in my area, but I use pool chlorine, Dawn detergent and jet dry and a $400 house wash will cost me $8 and take 2hrs and come out looking phenomenal. Now, why is everyone paying all this money for these house wash chems, someone please enlighten me.

What is Jet dry?

How do you mix that?

How much chlorine, Dawn, Jet dry in a 5 gal bucket.

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Power House costs about $6 per house on average to use. A 5-gallon jug costs $33 and is applied at 15:1 or higher, so one 5-gallon jug covers more than 11,000 sq ft. in it's strongest form. Some guys can stretch this to 15,000 by mixing it a little lighter (when the job is less demanding). That's economical!

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Pam's, you do know that the sole purpose of the dish soap is to act as a foaming agent to keep the bleach on the area as long as possible. What do you use?

If that's the sole purpose then what are you using in your mix to clean the dirt, spider webs, etc. I've used dish soap before just to experiment, and it does not, by any means, hold a candle to a profesional soap. And as far as cost goes, the fact that my house washes look 5 times better when I'm done then my competions handy work with dish soap, is one of the reasons that I land jobs for almost twice what they do. Also, the few extra $ I spend on my mix is a small price to pay when I can shave large amounts of time off job because of the added effecincy of better emulsification.

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I use citra clean, 15% chlorine, but I also add a rinse aid, & a foaming agent to it. I have washed a couple hundered houses/buildings w/ it, it has never failed me once. I blows the minds of my customers. Like Don said, it's the ingredients that make the difference. I have tried the bleach and Dawn, it didn't do near as well as the citra clean. I'm with Cujo, I didn't spend $25k on equipment to wash w/ over the counter bleach & soap. Whatever your choice of chems are, I'll bet most are better than bleach & dawn. It costs me a little bit more $, but I am a beleiver in the ol' saying that you get what you pay for. When I tell my customers that I use professional grade chems, they know that I am for real, not some hack looking for beer money (even though a certain % goes to my love of beer).

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Classic, I used powerhouse for about 3 months from Sunbrite. I works really good, then I read so much about Citraclean and had the chance run out of Powerhouse and thought I would give it a try. I used it per Steve formula and I am a beliver that it is good as everone here says. I was on vacation and was heading back to GA and stop in Smyrna, Steves place and met him face to face. He is an incredible guy. Very knowlegable and very friendly. I bought 10 more gallons and now I stock it as my housewash. I was amaze that it cleans gutter streaks also. Go ahead and give it a try.

DeGraffreed

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This was good thread on soap. The problem is any thing will clean a house in the most part. Its the quality of soap that will suspened the dirt for longer period of times so you can mecanically rinse the area. Hence the name emulsifying plus, The problem is your surfactant is so weak you have a really short dwell. Citra clean has a longer wetting agent so you get more cleaning time or rinse.

So if you have a short dwell you have alot of filler, which everyone knows that the cheapest filler is water, So it cost more to run, since you have a harder surface tension with the more water in you product. This is why water beads cause of the tension in the water molecules. The surfactants releases the tension in the water to make it wetter, so you use less water , time and money.

Matt

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Classic, I used powerhouse for about 3 months from Sunbrite. I works really good, then I read so much about Citraclean and had the chance run out of Powerhouse and thought I would give it a try. I used it per Steve formula and I am a beliver that it is good as everone here says. I was on vacation and was heading back to GA and stop in Smyrna, Steves place and met him face to face. He is an incredible guy. Very knowlegable and very friendly. I bought 10 more gallons and now I stock it as my housewash. I was amaze that it cleans gutter streaks also. Go ahead and give it a try.

DeGraffreed

Another thing to keep in mind is that you can cut the price of citracleen quite a bit by buying it in drum kits. I think the cost is closer to $10.00/gallon for a 5 gallon jug, but if you buy a drum kit, it winds up close to $3.00/gallon. For a typical housewash, I'll use about 2 gallons, so I'm only using $6.00 in soap. Add chlorine and other additives, and I'm close to $10.00 for a typical housewash. For the results I get, I'm not worried about saving a couple bucks/day on soap. I'm happy with citracleen and see no reason to switch. Sure, in a pinch dawn will work ok, but not as well as a good professional soap.

As Don pointed out, there are other products on the market that work just as well, but I just don't see the need to spend the time finding them and trying them out.

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