Stripping Wooddefender

[Degraffreed 21]

To all wood vets.

Question. Was testing my new F-18 that I purchased from Bob, I was attempting to strip and old skid that I was testing from a past stain test.

I applied 2oz of F-18 to strip oil based stain... started to see some brown stain run. Cranked it up to 4oz and a little more came off. I was trying to see what the dwell time would be on the test skid. I remember a past post that stated spray chems.. let dwell 10-15 min.. due scratch test..

Do you continue to keep the test area wet at all times?

I came back into the house and hit Bobs site and noticed that I was to crank it up to 8-16 oz per gallon. Beth Chime in here and tell me your secret.

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

Keep wet with more product.... yes... scratch....be patient. Don't wash till you can get thru to bare wood in multiple places. Seeing it melt is a good sign when stripping. That's what you want to see. You will learn how to adjust the amount you mix up to strip with as you get more comfortable. It's won't be the same each time necessarily, it may depend on the stain you are removing. My bet is, Wood Defender will be an easy strip.

Beth :cup:

[R. Williamson 14]

Wood Defender should be an easy strip. With F-18 8oz per gallon and F-18MAX 4oz per gallon. A 15 Minute dwell time should be good. And yes keep wet.

[Degraffreed 21]

F-18

Is there something you can add to the F-18 mixture that will make it "Cling" or to thicken it up to cling to vertical objects such as spindles, runners. I appears to be such a waste of product to have it to run off the surface like it does or am I doing something wrong here. Chime in here Bob. Did not get a chance to call you today. Hopefully tommorrow. I thank you and Beth for the quick response on my question.

[JFife 14]

degrarffeed,

My experience (though minimal) was the exact opposite, it clung extremely well. Don't know what you are working on, but strippers won't cling well to a sheened product, like Sikkens or a glossy waterbase, you have to apply lightly and wait for stripper to "bite" into the wood and then apply heavily.

[R. Williamson 14]

With the surfactant package F-18 has it does cling well by itself. Jon's correct the best way to apply to spindles is to lite mist them first then apply heavier.

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

I only know of one thickening agent out there at this time, if anyone knows of others -speak up. ESI ( Extreme Solutions) makes one called Hang Time. They sell it and I bet Sun Brite does too.

Jon is right, it will depend on what you are stripping as to how well anything will hold, or begin to work before running off. You might have been applying too heavily also. If you let it dry you waited too long. Keep it damp to moist... it doesn't have to be a river...hope that helps.

Beth

[Pams Pressure & Clean 64]

The silicone in Wooddefender is likely to be causing the fast runoff that Jon mentioned.

Ditto misting first..

[Degraffreed 21]

Thanks to all that post. I figured that I was putting it on to heavy and this was causing it to run off.

When your stripping a deck, spindles, floor, are you doing certain sections at a time?

It appears it would be impossible to keep the entire deck, railings, runners and spindles "Wet " all at the same time. I might be asking some Silly questions here but I am determined to get this Staining Biz off to a correct start. Have deck staining coming up in about a week, if it ever stop raining long enough to complete it.

[PressurePros 248]

I prefer to work in sections so I do not get over dwelling. If the deck floor measures under 400 sf and it's PTP or a hardwood, then I coat the whole thing and mist it from time to time with water to keep it wet.

[Celeste 341]

The silicone in Wooddefender is likely to be causing the fast runoff that Jon mentioned.

Ditto misting first..

There is not enough silicone in the WoodDefender to cause these problems. The silicone put in WD is an additive to aid in the flow and penetration. It acts more as a wetting agent. We have reapplied more stain two days after the initial application with no issue.

Celeste

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

The issues you face with reapplication are not the same as with stripping. Depending on the strength a stripper is mixed at, it may be an issue even if it is a minimal amount.

For example, a pro could go out and say gee, I only need 2 or 3 oz per gallon, I don't see a film here...but then they hit a wall...doesn't look quite right. This is why it is important o see if you can learn what is on a deck and how long ago it was applied, so you can determine how to strip the deck.

I would rather walk onto a deck that is obviously filmed up, than onto an innocent looking one where the homeowner has not got a clue what the prior owner ( as an example) had done to it.

Food for thought...

Beth

[tropical wave 22]

Thanks to all that post. I figured that I was putting it on to heavy and this was causing it to run off.

When your stripping a deck, spindles, floor, are you doing certain sections at a time?

It appears it would be impossible to keep the entire deck, railings, runners and spindles "Wet " all at the same time. I might be asking some Silly questions here but I am determined to get this Staining Biz off to a correct start. Have deck staining coming up in about a week, if it ever stop raining long enough to complete it.

I think everyone does it different and has their own system.... If the floor is big, we break it down in sections and work away from sections still needed to be done (to keep them from getting soaked with water and diluting the stripper when its time to do that section).... for that same reason, (not every time, but in general) we work from bottom up, steps, fascia, floor, then railings etc..... works for us, Im sure others do it different and probably completely opposite :)