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JBenson

weep holes troubles

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I recently washed a house with white vinyl siding, i used an X-jet. A couple days later i got a call about stains on the siding and i went to look and it was where water came out the weep holes in the bottom of the siding. It was mostly towards the top of the house so i imagine it has to do with the angle of the water as it hits the bottom of the siding and the lower your washing you hit the face of the siding head on. I spray with the seams and not into them so i know that is not where it gets in. This all came about after i left the homeowner happy. What did i do wrong and how do you prevent this. Thank you in advance. One more question, I can not get bug poop stains off the siding, i even scrubbed with a bristled brush and the homeowner swears they will come off but this has been on the siding for a long time, i think the stains penetrated the siding, what do you think.

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I hate to ask but what are the 0010, 0040 tips that are talked about, maybe these would help me as right now the only tool i really have is a X-Jet M5. I have the 4 tips that came with the washer but i can only assume these are not what your talking about, and also how do you know that your using only 1500 psi, I have no adjustment on my machine, do you just go by the distance from the surface and just guess the pressure. I know, i have alot to learn, I can say i have from this, i didnt think my embarrasing questions would turn into 4 pages of very informative reading. thanks to all

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Go buy yourself a dual lance adjustable wand at your nearest supplier.And you can use pretty much any of the fan pattern nozzles for most rinsing.Make sure it is the right GPM nozzle for your machine though.Also, where your hose couples to the trigger get a high pressure swivel.This is easier on you and your hoses.Dultmeirs has the best prices on these that I have found.

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Tony, you have seen my posts over the years about the least amount of pressure possible to do the job. I even mentioned it in this thread. What I am saying is 1500-2000psi is not that bad from a ladder. I did not say in every instance and all the time. So to answer your question, yes I am positive and I am sure others have and do the same thing.

I will also "guarantee" that you from the ground and me actually getting up close and personal seeing the actual results of my work that I am comfortable saying that I "know" that I am doing a better job. From the ground you can only assume that you are.

I'm not doubting what you are saying Everett. I just would not be comfortable up on a ladder tying to control 1500-2000 psi. It may be a little better if you're using a flow actuated unloader, so that big start up kick doesn't play into it.

For myself, I'm not comfortable to powerwash off a ladder, and I'm even less comfortable to give others the idea to try it.

I totally agree that the closer one can get to the work surface, the better chance he has to get it cleaner. In some cases, I do go up a ladder, and onto a garage roof or such to get better access at something, but I don't wash while standing on a ladder.

I guess it's just a matter of comfort, and one's view of safety procedures. I see too many opportunities for disaster washing from a ladder.

Am I alone with this thought?

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I hate to ask but what are the 0010, 0040 tips that are talked about, maybe these would help me as right now the only tool i really have is a X-Jet M5. I have the 4 tips that came with the washer but i can only assume these are not what your talking about, and also how do you know that your using only 1500 psi, I have no adjustment on my machine, do you just go by the distance from the surface and just guess the pressure. I know, i have alot to learn, I can say i have from this, i didnt think my embarrasing questions would turn into 4 pages of very informative reading. thanks to all

You can adjust your psi by changing tip orifice size. I know there's a tip chart floating around some where on these boards. Anybody know where it is?

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If I was afraid to work off of a ladder I would be in a different line of work.That would be like being a tree trimmer and being afraid of a saw, because you know it can cut you.But I will say this to anyone who is afraid of a ladder,...don't use one because it's those who are afraid that will fall.

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You can adjust your psi by changing tip orifice size. I know there's a tip chart floating around some where on these boards. Anybody know where it is?

You can change your orifice size but the pressure build up from a pressure actuated unloader is still going to kick pretty hard when you open that gun. I have been on a deck loaded with stripper and been pushed back almost off my feet from that initial blast.

I'm not afraid of being up on a ladder, I just don't like it and I think it is an unsafe practice to wash from one. I did subcontracting work for Comcast in the past. Imagine being up on a 28 foot ladder,the ladder suspended from the cable wires, wind blowing 30 mph, ground snow covered, and the concrete underneath completely uneven. Sometimes then, I would have a little lump in my throat until I hit mother Earth again with both feet.

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I have the #5 nozzles for my machine, are you saying that changing the size of these nozzles is how you achieve this, so a #4 will give less pressure. If I am reading into this correctly wouldnt this put to much stress on the unloader, wouldnt it always be bypassing water.

As far as the ladder stuff goes, here is what i gather

If your comfortable spraying off a ladder go ahead and do it, if your not, dont. Am I close.

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I have the #5 nozzles for my machine, are you saying that changing the size of these nozzles is how you achieve this, so a #4 will give less pressure. If I am reading into this correctly wouldnt this put to much stress on the unloader, wouldnt it always be bypassing water.

As far as the ladder stuff goes, here is what i gather

If your comfortable spraying off a ladder go ahead and do it, if your not, dont. Am I close.

The higher the nozzle size the less pressure. I looked at my chart, and for you to achieve 1,500 psi with your 5gpm machine you would need a #8 or #8.5.

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This is really getting detailed now. You guys are getting hung up on pricing and how many people are being used. It really doesn't matter as far as pricing if I am making money. Let me try this approach, if the going rate is $500 for any service or job that one does. Then from that you start deducting your controllable and fixed expenses, whatever you have left is your profit. You will have to pay rent, electric, phone, insurance etc. some of which is a fixed expense and some, or a portion is controlled. Labor is a controllable expense. How I run my business may be different from you but it doesn't change the price of the job(there are variables in pricing but relatively the same). So let's take that $500 job and it takes you all day to do that job by yourself. You have reduced a lot of expenses and you walk away with a good portion of that. Now I come in and do two of those jobs a day with an employee that cost me $100/day. I take that $100 off the $1000 and I am left with $900 with a few dollars more in expenses related to having the employee but, at the end of the day who has more dollars in their pocket me or you?

Same is with the house washing. Taking someone's example of 3-4 hours to do a house washing by themselves they would gross $600 at the end of the day(if they do two houses). Me with my helper get three houses done I gross $900 and pay someone $100.00 for the day. In the end I have more dollars in the bank. With two people you are working safer and more productively for more money, not less.

Also in regards to pricing there is not one of us that does not give discounts for more frequent cleanings. This is how you bid jobs successfully and create more income with less work. Take flatwork for instance, I give a one time, or initial price, then I give pricing that is tiered for monthly, quarterly, bi-annually, etc. so that in the end they see a savings per cleaning if they do it more often. Going back more often is easier to clean and you can afford to pass on the savings that it will save you in time and effort. What I am saying here is many contractors who wash homes do not even use this approach. If you were to charge $300 for a house and they got it done every four years how much money will you charge or make in four years? Do you think they will even call you again? I tell the customer that it is $300 now and if you do it every year it will be $250.00 and your house will always look this way. If you wait two years it will be $275. If you wait after that I am sure there will be a price increase and you will probably pay more like $350. This creates a maintence plan for the customer, increased traffic for me, upsell potential on later work(driveway, deck, pool, fence, etc), and I put more dollars into my account, use these jobs to fill schedules, add value to my business, and when I go back I can clean less agressively and rely on other equipment like X-jets and such to do the cleaning.

FYI- In my area I am aware of my competition but I would like to think they are trying to keep up with me! I do not worry too much about them.

Now I am giving away too much for free! Send checks to ...

Everrett is absolutly right on discounting. I do it all the time, Asfor having employees its great. They make me money everytime. Like the complexes i do. I'll have 3-4 machines cleaning, say 3 machines, 3 guys. I bid a building at $400 times 20 buildings. on a hot summer day I alone would clean only one building. Not what I consider a good days pay $400. But I have 3 guys working the buildings. I usually set up one doing the front and one doing the back & sides, then I have 1 machine doing another building or maybe they have multi level walkways and I put him on that. The buildings go straight down a line. They know what to do, just keep rolling down the line of buildings. They get use to it and they can do 4 buildings a day the 1st or 2nd day. Now 4 buildings X $400 = $1600 I pay out $400-$500 payroll for that day and chem & gas I still make anywhere from say $800-$1000 a day and we finish in 5 days. Good weeks pay for me. And the 4th guy who didnt work the complex is doing my $100 house washes say he does 4 houses, pay him $100 for the day, thats another $300 in my pocket. It pays to have employees, when your real busy. It was like this this past summer I had 3-5 guys working and some days, many days I didnt pick up a wand and we did this for months

Discounting I have a gutter cleaning contract 47 buildings every 3-4months its close to $6000 minus $900 for a lift. I told them Id discount it 10% not counting lift charge if they do it every 3-4 months 5% if its done every 6 months. They needed it every 3-4 months so I discounted it over $500+ big deal The first time we did it it took 4 & 1/2 das the second time 3 days, me and one other guy. the discount helped them make the decision to do it 3-4 months and add it up i do it 3 times approx a year, does the discount hurt or help?

You have to discount and even go a little low to get the regular 1/4ly, biannual or annual contracts. In the long run you can make very good money.

Those $400 buildings i do house washes that are half the size sometimes, but its very competitive around here so you have to figure out how to do them and still make great $$$ and the only way is Discounts & employees. Im not trying to just make a living I want to make a killing and have a large very busy business

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I'm not doubting what you are saying Everett. I just would not be comfortable up on a ladder tying to control 1500-2000 psi. It may be a little better if you're using a flow actuated unloader, so that big start up kick doesn't play into it.

For myself, I'm not comfortable to powerwash off a ladder, and I'm even less comfortable to give others the idea to try it.

I totally agree that the closer one can get to the work surface, the better chance he has to get it cleaner. In some cases, I do go up a ladder, and onto a garage roof or such to get better access at something, but I don't wash while standing on a ladder.

I guess it's just a matter of comfort, and one's view of safety procedures. I see too many opportunities for disaster washing from a ladder.

Am I alone with this thought?

I agree 110% with you Tony on working off ladders. I have seen to many accidents caused by the use of ladders, and have had a few near misses myself. I work and have been trained on ladders in the firefighting aspect of my job. I will not let my help work off of a ladder in any situation. I will be the only person using a ladder in my business because of the liability.

I understand where Everett is coming from on being able to do a better job from a ladder, but the bottom line is I a'm cleaning a house, and not an area where food is going to be prepared.

I know I am a rookie but my opinion is that from the experience is that all my customers have been extremely satisfied with the results from me cleaning their houses using the xjet and rinsing from the ground when possible. Thats why this board is so great, to read and understand how everyone tackles a job in a different manner.

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I'm a newbie also, but I avoid ladders like the plague. I don't even own one (yet) and will only buy and use one when it is absolutely positively necessary. I like staying on solid ground.

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Fall arrest gear is your friend. Better to have it and use it. If I recall right, a while back ( 2 years maybe) there was a guy who was in a lift, and fell out. He lived but was seriously hurt. We're talking months of rehab. Even in a lift, you need to be harnessed in and safe.

OK..off my soapbox.

Beth

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Contractors who are afraid of ladders?What do people who don't use ladders do when they run into a bees nest in the peak area of a house?Without going up a ladder and picking this stuff out it is almost impoossible to do it from the ground without risking alot of water under the soffit.Bee glue is really tough.Using ladders is part of being a contracter.If I had A contracter come to my house and say he was afraid of ladders I would wonder if he was a serious contractor or just kinda messing around.How can you do quality work without the use of a ladder.

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JL,

It was like this this past summer I had 3-5 guys working and some days, many days I didnt pick up a wand and we did this for months

How much of a bite is South Carolina Worker's Comp taking from you? Do you consider that in your P/L?

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Contractors who are afraid of ladders?What do people who don't use ladders do when they run into a bees nest in the peak area of a house?Without going up a ladder and picking this stuff out it is almost impoossible to do it from the ground without risking alot of water under the soffit.Bee glue is really tough.Using ladders is part of being a contracter.If I had A contracter come to my house and say he was afraid of ladders I would wonder if he was a serious contractor or just kinda messing around.How can you do quality work without the use of a ladder.

Most of my customers are relieved when I inform them I will not need a ladder to clean their home. I have had numerous customers voice their concern of me damaging their gutters or siding from the use of a ladder. When I tell them of my methods of cleaning their home with low pressure and not having to go board by board, it seems to be a good selling point for my house wash. Yes I do use a ladder on hard to reach sections and such, but not as a routine on every house wash.

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Ladders will not cause damage at all if they are used properly,..set at proper angles and the use of a stabilizer.There is no reason a ladder should ever be resting on gutters.Yes if you lean a ladder against a gutter without a stabilizer you will scratch it and risk the chance of the ladder moving when you are on it, but the simple use of a stabilizer solves this problem.I'm glad my customers are comfortable with my ability whether I'm using a ladder or a trampoline.

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Fall arrest gear is your friend. Better to have it and use it. If I recall right, a while back ( 2 years maybe) there was a guy who was in a lift, and fell out. He lived but was seriously hurt. We're talking months of rehab. Even in a lift, you need to be harnessed in and safe.

OK..off my soapbox.

Beth

Harness should always be used in a lift. True story about 2 months ago, i was on a 40' JLG and I noticed the tilt was tilting on the bucket and I wasnt doing it. I came down and the tilt was real bad. I called Sunbelt to come fix it and if i didnt keep going I may not have been able to finish the job that day as I planned. I took the lift back up and it kept tilting (the bucket) and I would just adjust it back up. I saw no hydrualic oil anywhere. Then I saw Sunbelt coming in lot so i started to come down and about 3 ft from ground, there was a big jolt and the bucket tipped a hell of a lot. I grabbed on, I wasnt going to fall out, but if that happened while I was higher up and maybe reaching a little who knows, Wear your harness!!!

The reason it was tilting was it was loseing Hydrualic fkuid, but it was gathering in a little nook and was not dripping on ground. Sunbelt looked at it and I was pissed. At one tome one of the lines was fixed. Instead of useing a hose barb and the proper clamps, whoever fixed it used a straight 1/4 pipe no barbs and just hose clamps. I had them bring another lift out

As for ladder use. Yes most of the time it would be user error in ladder accidents, but they do happen all the time, by some of the most experienced in any trade. If I had to use a ladder 8 hrs a day to do what I have to, I would . But I dont so I wont. Please if anyone one uses ladders USE STABILIZER BARS and dont reach to get that one little spot thats only a few inches out of reach. Also be careful using ladders on frozen ground thatmay thaw. I prefer a pogo stick myself LOL

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JL,

How much of a bite is South Carolina Worker's Comp taking from you? Do you consider that in your P/L?

Every $100 in payroll is around $13.88 extra for W/C.

P/L ???

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Contractors who are afraid of ladders?What do people who don't use ladders do when they run into a bees nest in the peak area of a house?Without going up a ladder and picking this stuff out it is almost impoossible to do it from the ground without risking alot of water under the soffit.Bee glue is really tough.Using ladders is part of being a contracter.If I had A contracter come to my house and say he was afraid of ladders I would wonder if he was a serious contractor or just kinda messing around.How can you do quality work without the use of a ladder.

It's not an issue of being afraid to use a ladder. The issue is that I don't feel it's safe to operate a pressure washer while up on a ladder, regardless of the height.

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Go buy yourself a dual lance adjustable wand

you can do about the same with a roll-over nozzle and it is lighter.

If Everett and His customers are happy with his methods and his money then I don't see a reason to discuss his methods. He has been around a long time and if that is what it takes then so be it.

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I'd say that the customer is the final judge on this.

Doesn't matter if you use an X-Jet, a ladder, lift, or a bar of soap and a wash cloth, if the customer is happy with the end result and writes you a check, then you've done your job to their satisfaction, regardless of the method that you use.

If your prefered method is making customers happy, getting you referals and other jobs, then there is no reason to change how you prefer to do the job.

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I'd say that the customer is the final judge on this.

Doesn't matter if you use an X-Jet, a ladder, lift, or a bar of soap and a wash cloth, if the customer is happy with the end result and writes you a check, then you've done your job to their satisfaction, regardless of the method that you use.

If your prefered method is making customers happy, getting you referals and other jobs, then there is no reason to change how you prefer to do the job.

Right on Lou!

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