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a68cudas

stripping acrlic latex question?

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have a multi deck job to do. one deck is redwood with some boards replaced with regular wood. one deck is treated wood and a walkway to one deck that is redwood also. these all have been stained one coat with a sherwin williams acrylic latex solid stain. the stain is a grey color. there are alot of flower beds and plants around areas to strip all decks are to be stripped and restained. some of the areas on the decks and walkway are allready pealing from just last years stain. she wants the decks restained with cabots and a similar solid grey stain but i do believe that its going to be oil based. what stripper should i use to strip and what neutralizer should i follow up with after stripping and also and suggestions on cleanup etc because of all the flower beds and plants around the deck areas? any special care that is needed for staining and stripping redwood? any info greatly appreciated

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Forget stripping it unless she is willing to pay at least $7 per square foot. Acrylics require extremely expensive strippers ($40 per gallon). You have to apply them by hand or with heavy duty airless, wait overnight for them to work and you can guarantee you will still have to sand in many places. Your best bet is to clean flaking solid, oil prime and recoat with solid.

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HD can work but you have to add antifreeze to it. Your dwell time will be in the range of 4-12 hours so you also need something to keep it wet. ESI makes a product called Hang Time. Even then you will be reapplying several times until the wood is saturated. Your best bet would be to give it a soaking at sundown, wrap the entire desk in plastic and let it sit over night.

Are we having fun yet? Aren't acrylics great? This is the worst case scenario (but a likely one) Do a test spot and see for yourself.

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Cudas,

these all have been stained one coat with a sherwin williams acrylic latex solid stain. the stain is a grey color.

Go to the local Sherwin Williams store and ask for their stripping product for their foul acrylic stain. Make sure to get in writing that if the product does not completely strip the stain, you get your money back. I am afraid that you will be sorely disappointed. These manufacturers are selling stain that they cannot remove. Shameful.

I agree with Ken's previous advice.

Your best bet is to clean flaking solid, oil prime and recoat with solid.

Why knock yourself out, charge the customer a ton of money, only to put another opaque solid stain on the wood?

Are we having fun yet? Aren't acrylics great?

Any wood "contractor" who puts these foul acrylics on exterior decks without priming, particularly horizontal wood, deserves to spend eternity in woodcare hell, stripping with a hot NaOH mix on hands and knees without kneepads and with a brush without gloves.

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Cudas,

Acrylic stains are a nightmare. We all go through this test of fire. This foul compound will either drive you crazy or broke. Welcome to the club.

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Diedrich technologies makes a stripper for removing 'latex' house paint. It's based upon Potassium hydroxide. But you have leave it overnight. So what do most people here think of Porch & Floor paints for decks, especially latex based ones?

-Dan

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Diedrich technologies makes a stripper for removing 'latex' house paint. It's based upon Potassium hydroxide. But you have leave it overnight. So what do most people here think of Porch & Floor paints for decks, especially latex based ones?

-Dan

So I have two porches I'd like to strip of the "porch and deck paint". I didn't paint it originally, but it is peeling like crazy. I'd like to strip and stain it. Does anyone have a reply to Dan or myself on this topic?

Scott

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I was hoping for something less than $1.00 per sft in material cost. But I appreciate those links, they were helpful and I saved them for the future.

Does that 3108 stuff work well?

Scott

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Maybe it's the way I read your post, but I'm either walking away or bidding it so d**n high that she walks away or I laugh all the way to the bank. Here's why I say that:

Redwood deck repaired with PT = cheap.

PT deck abutting redwood walkway = again, took cheap route to add-on/repair.

Sherwin Williams stain = Available to public. Potential DIY homeowner job previously.

she wants cabots = customer dictating materials to me. No.

and a similar solid grey stain = customer providing materials for me. No.

but i do believe that its going to be oil based = Unknown product. H**L NO.

IMHO this is a customer who thinks they are a pro. And despite having screwed it up a few times before they STILL thinks they are the pro. And, they repeatedly look for the cheap fix. That type of customer firmly believes that you are nothing more than labor and the ONLY reason they called you is to do the work they don't want to do. And since you are nothing more than manual labor, you are obviously stupid and need to be told what, how, and when to do or you will make a complete mess of it.

Don't walk, RUN away from these types of people.

one deck is redwood with some boards replaced with regular wood.

one deck is treated wood and a walkway to one deck that is redwood also.

these all have been stained sherwin williams acrylic latex solid stain.

she wants the decks restained with cabots and a similar solid grey stain

but i do believe that its going to be oil based.

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I third the running part. My experience has been, if it has been "stained" with a solid stain, they will have to stay with a solid stain because you will never get it all off. Or take a saw and hammer and demolish it and rebuild. Then they can put whatever stain on it they want.

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You never say never untill you've tried a test spot with the right chemicals.If you can't budge the stain then run!Also if they can afford the $$ to restore the deck that's not falling apart maby.

If the frame or decks boards are holding up and it's just a solid stain either acrylic,latex you name it you can strip it.You need chems, patience and dwelllingggg....:cool:

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Oh come on :) Where's the wood care spirit????? These jobs do really stink but there is a solution. You probably wont like it though.

Best bet is to get as much of the loose and flaking off with the washers - let dry - than break out your Makita 9227C with a 8" disc and 80 grit paper. Yep - Sand the floor back to new.

We turn them into Two-tones leaving the handrail white (or a color depicted by the homeowner) and stain the flooring and handrail cap in a semi trans. It's a customer for life when you do these and 2 guys on makitas can usually knock out a floor in a couple hours.

We're charging on average $6 a square foot on the floor and $8.50 a linear foot on the railing. With the extra labor involved you really don't make a whole lot more money but as I said previously - you'll have a customer for life.

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Oh and on these we use TimberStain UV Semi Trans or Cabot Decking Stains on the floor and rail cap. They have more pigment at the surface to hide the remnants of any stain left in cracks/checks. Then use just a solid bodied acrylic on the railing.

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Oh come on :) Where's the wood care spirit?????

GIMMIE A W GIMMIE A O GIMMIE A O GIMMIE A D what's that spell? :lgwave:

That's a good sqft price ya'll getting Greg!

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