Jump to content
  • 0
Sign in to follow this  
Dan Stapleton

Hey Ken, Woodrich questions

Question

Ken,

Is Woodrich easier to apply then Wood Tux? Is it as viscous? Some of the issues with lap marks, drying, sheen etc. concern me as I have my first deck stain coming up Tuesday. I've decided to scrap the pump-up and roll then back pad. What size, type roller cover would you recommend? I'm assuming a roller will allow more stain per dip and the pad will even out the roller marks. Is it better to roll, back pad in sections or roll it all then back pad? I have the shoe coverings. Forgive the rookie questions, I will appreciate your thoughts and experience. Dan

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

27 answers to this question

Recommended Posts

  • 0

Understand Dan that I only had one experience with Wood Rich but here are my impressions. It has less pigmentation than Wood Tux so it spreads better. When I driped a few drops onto a dry piece of cedar it beagn to spread and penetrate almost instantly. I never had any problems with lap marks with regular Wood Tux not did I have any with the new Wood Rich. For lack of a better term I would cal it more "oily". Wood Rich more resembles other tinted sealers you may be used to using. It does not sure as quickly so you can apply it heavier and allow it to soak in. Wood Tux really needs to eb brushed oput right away for maximum penetration. Wood Rich is more user friendly and allows you to play with it a bit more. Wood Rich, in my opinion, is much easier to control. By that I mean a little over application can be easily brushed out as opposed to possibly leaving a sheen.

I don't like rolling any type of sealer. I suppose if you back pad it after you roll it you might be okay but otherwise the technique leves bubbles and tends to deposit to much product on the surface. I rolled a few decks in the past and just didn't like the results. Our technique is to do four boards their entire length, then back brush/pad them before moving on. On larger jobs I like to kep the floor near the rails covered to catch drips just in case we cannot get to a floor until the next day.

Final note: My experience with Wood Tux has been to allow a couple hours of dry time (go eat lunch after you clean/balance). Sealing wood that is saturated with water is a pain. Water rises to the surface and bubbles and its very hard to tel if you have enough product down.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

I started out rolling on stain - but found I didn't like the procedure. I also think the method of application can have results of longevity. So right now I roll on stain on two boards, and go back and back brush by hand. What kind of pads are you guys talking about? I find with the brush it makes the sides of the boards along the cracks get a little better uniform finish without looking like dribbles over the side. What is the standard procedure of application? Back to rolling - I found that with more traditional stains, it didn't penetrate as well, but I hate brushing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
What kind of pads are you guys talking about?

There are several brands, but I think most people use something like this on a pole to backbrush/pad. It's flat and about 3"x9." You can buy them in any paint store or the paint department of any store.

post-1644-137772166049_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
There are several brands, but I think most people use something like this on a pole to backbrush/pad. It's flat and about 3"x9." You can buy them in any paint store or the paint department of any store.

Those are the worst pads i've ever used they might last one job before the sponge tears apart.

PADCO paint pads are much better with a longer nap but last longer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

That's just a pic I Googled to give him an idea of what we were talking about. I don't even know what brand it is.

Celeste,

I don't have a problem with that unless my stain is drying too quickly and getting sticky before I can get to it. In that case I either spray heavier, or do fewer boards at a time so I'm backbrushing sooner. It could be the difference in the products we use. Isn't Wood Tux thicker than most oil based stains?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

Shane, do you use those pads on the railing also? I might need to give them a try. Curreently I use a 4in 3/4in nap roller for the spindles and floor when i cant spray.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

In my experience, a flat pad is better than a roller because a roller tends to "flip" light weight products. Work near the house with a roller and you'll see what I mean. Check the siding and you'll see plenty of splatter. This just doesn't happen with a flat pad. Also, a lot of boards are cupped, and a roller won't get into the cupped areas. A flat pad can be pushed into these areas to get good coverage.

Flat pads will tear-up on rough wood, or if the nails aren't set prior to sealing. I have used a single flat pad for months. I just had to be sorta careful, and attentive to the surface being worked on. We used Ready Seal, so the hair issue was never a problem. Even if they are all over the deck, products that don't "film" will never "catch and hold" them. Filmers will, and "hairs", pollen, leaves, etc., will all be problemmatic. How do you handle those issues? The flat pad hair issue should be handle in the same way. Here's a link to our flat pad page. http://sunbrite.stores.yahoo.net/flatstainpads.html

Use them if you like, if not, that's cool too. I loved them! Use what works for you. Just my 2 cents.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

You may want to try using a wash brush for your back brushing. One of my customers uses the 10 straight brush on all of his log homes to prevent the wood from picking up the fuzz of a pad. They also work great on uneven surfaces for even coverage. Basically they are a big paint brush that you can put on a pole. http://mobicleaninc.com/store/item/zasj/Brushes/10_Straight_Truck_Wash_Brush.html

On the decks he does typically use the flat pads though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
Even if they are all over the deck, products that don't "film" will never "catch and hold" them. Filmers will, and "hairs", pollen, leaves, etc., will all be problemmatic.

Tracy,

Prior to the changes in the VOC laws in January of 2005, we never saw a pad leave a hair behind with anything we put down, including the truest of "filmers" Sikkens Cetol DEK. I don't believe it is a matter of friction or pull. That's not what is causing the hairs to abandon the pads... Everything we have used that has undergone VOC reduction changes now seems to have that problem... this is a forumla issue inherent to many things from what I can tell.

Beth

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
Shane, do you use those pads on the railing also? I might need to give them a try. Curreently I use a 4in 3/4in nap roller for the spindles and floor when i cant spray.

They can be used on the railing PT better than rough cedar 2x2's.When you stain start from the bottom and go up.I use them for the railing top cap all the time.You just have to squeeze the excess stain out of the pad especially when they are new.

Now the stain paddle works better on railings.

stain21xw5hg2.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
Shane is also the " That time of the month Man in Texas for sheep". He invented the "Tamp paddle".. Baaaahhhh

HAHAHA you killing me over here that's too funny Jim! :lolsign:

Sorry for taking your thread :topic: Dan

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
Shane one more day in RI leaving Tues AM . I'm spraying with the deckster from ACR. This was a good pick up. Rick talked me into it!!

That's cool i bet you glad to be finished with that project!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×