Chemical for De-Identifying

[Tom DeFrancesco 23]

Does anyone know if there is a miracle chem to help remove decals from a vehicle instead of just using a heat gun and adhesive remover ???

[seymore 90]

Does anyone know if there is a miracle chem to help remove decals from a vehicle instead of just using a heat gun and adhesive remover ???

I've heard Laquer thinner works great and it's easy on the paint.

[COOPER 14]

I always use my hot water from my pw and then use rubbing alcohol to get the adhesive residue.

[PressurePros 249]

D-limonene

[PA Dutchman 14]

D-limonene

=Restore from stickers:lgbounces

[Anthony G 14]

My boss at work just bought a fast signs franchise and I think he said that they use denatured alcohol ???? to remove the adhesives.

[seymore 90]

denatured alcohol ???? to remove the adhesives.

That's it i was trying to think of De/alcohol when i posted earlier that will work too.

When i i had my bed liner put in a truck they layed my tailgate on a drum that had some sticky gunk on my paint.They had to wipe my tailgate down with De/alcohol and it all came off.I don't think it's too good for the clear coat tho so i waxed my truck after.

[Russ Johnson 141]

D-limonene

Ditto

[Tom DeFrancesco 23]

Thank you gentleman. Hey Coop, How hot and how did you not damage the paint ?? I am not at all worried about clearcoat. These are all 911 ambulances that get the crap beat out of them. The hospital has been taken over by another hospital so they want there own graphics on them.

[COOPER 14]

I think around 200 deg. I would prob. heat them up pretty good before you start trying to knock them off. I used about 2500 psi and would get at an angle so as to get the pressure behind the sticker. I sold one of my vans this summer and this is how I got them off. They had been on there for about 5 years. After I got them all off, I soaked them down (one word at a time) with rubbing alcohol. I let them soak for a few minutes (while one word was soaking i wet another) then would soak my rag down and scrub the first set until glue was gone. After done I washed the van.

Some of these other ways may be better ( I have only done this on the van I sold), but this worked pretty good.

[Wayne S. 14]

http://www.signwarehouse.com/TT-VR-p-HT-BE1000.html

http://www.signwarehouse.com/TT-VR-p-HT-STPELM.html

Here is two links to what the sign shops use. We used plastic razor blades and heat when we was doing vinyl work. What ever you do, DO NOT use heat on the glass, or you will crack it. (Especially in cold weather.) If you need help, you can call me. 931-362-4573, 931338-7367.

[FCPWLLC 233]

Goof Off works good.

[Tom DeFrancesco 23]

Well, I have completed seven of them. I took Cooper's advice and used about 225 deg water at an angle and it worked perfectly except where there was body work and repainting done. I really had to be careful. In sensative area's I would heat the lettering up nice and hot with the water and use an angled razor blade scraper (keeping fresh blades) and it would come off with extreme ease with 0 damage including the reflective letters.

Next I would spray the glue down with a chemical I found at A1 Hydro here in NY called CR2 Tar Kleen, let dwell for 15 min and rinse off with hot water. It was absolutely incredible. Did not have to rub once. It was well worth the price for the 5 gal pail.

I am trying to post pics but keeps saying Kb's are to large and cannot figure out how to change it.

[John T 744]

Hey Tom,

I got that building job and once I do it and get paid I'll give you a holler. Its only going to take about a half day and the money is not bad. Thanks for the lead and expect to get a little something from me once its completed. I also have to get back to Micheal Ahr who got me another building job that we already completed. He will be rewared also.

All this after meeting you guys at the ACR roundtable. Who says Roundtable don't work.

[Tom DeFrancesco 23]

John, no problem. I appreciate the gesture but there is only one thing I would like and that is to observe or help you with that job (at no cost to you) just so I could learn and see how you would handle it. I really just want the experience and I know you have it. Of course this is all if you do not mind. Just let me know if it is ok and let me know when you plan on doing it so I can plan it around the other job.

[COOPER 14]

Well, I have completed seven of them. I took Cooper's advice and used about 225 deg water at an angle and it worked perfectly except where there was body work and repainting done. I really had to be careful. In sensative area's I would heat the lettering up nice and hot with the water and use an angled razor blade scraper (keeping fresh blades) and it would come off with extreme ease with 0 damage including the reflective letters.

Next I would spray the glue down with a chemical I found at A1 Hydro here in NY called CR2 Tar Kleen, let dwell for 15 min and rinse off with hot water. It was absolutely incredible. Did not have to rub once. It was well worth the price for the 5 gal pail.

I am trying to post pics but keeps saying Kb's are to large and cannot figure out how to change it.

Glad I could help Tom, I didn't think about a tar remover for the adhesive. Sounds like it worked better than the rubbing alcohol would have.

[ccsigns 14]

graphics removal is an animal of its own. It seems you all accomplish the process your own way. We have been doing just De-ID on semi trailers & such for around 15 years and we use propane torches, vapor steamers & chemicals whenever it requires. The trick is getting the vinyl off without adhesive seperation. Blasting them off has only created a clean-up problem and damage to substrates, the stuff has to be peeled off, with a heat source(vapor steam @280-300F 60-90psi is our preferred method). The adhesive is another matter. Applying adhesive remover with spryer(*when adhesive is dry) letting it dwell for 1-2minutes, then quickly respraying to re-activate and powerwashing off. D-limonene is what we buy 55drum, ZEP Big Orange works well, Rapid Remover is good but very expensive. Plastic scraper (Lil Chislers) are what we use to get under the vinyl. Laquer thinner is tooo toxic, alcohol is tooo slow, it should be D-limonene based product +75%.

Age of graphics, type of material and climate conditions play major roles. And by any means, make sure it is not metalic based vinyl before bidding, if it is reflective call me, DO NOT BLAST IT OFF.

Rich Clos

CC Signs & Specialties

Graphics Removal Experts

313-231-1477

[Tom DeFrancesco 23]

Rich, I appreciate the advice, the only thing is alot of the lettering and striping I had taken of was reflective and it came right off. Most of it I just heated it up really hot with the water and used an angled razor blade scraper and it would come off whole with practically 0 effort and the rest would just come flying off with the heat and some pressure at the right angle. Maybe I was just lucky maybe not. It worked on all 12 of them.