PressurePros 248 Report post Posted January 18, 2007 Customer said solid stain. It looks like paint to me. I only have this picture to go by. Notice the sheen up by the door. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 plainpainter 217 Report post Posted January 18, 2007 What a mess! I'd say solid stain over layers of latex porch and floor paint. At least the wood looks ok under the peeling sections. How are you going to strip that? 5f5? How many gallons would it take? Ewwwww. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 James 624 Report post Posted January 18, 2007 Solid Color Stains are basically a paint. They form films. The word" stain" is used to confuse joe public. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 RPetry 564 Report post Posted January 18, 2007 Customer says solid stain. Savvy wood contractor says no thank you. Sure looks like a ton of sanding or a boatload of BFSII to get that wood right. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 plainpainter 217 Report post Posted January 18, 2007 You know what techinque I might try if someone called me for that. I would get that 12 or 16 inch flashing that comes in 50 foot rolls from the lumberyard when I do roofing. That I would unwind that and cut it into sections. And then section off an area of that porch - say 6 boards wide the whole length of the porch. Then I would get one of those infra-red heat guns, that makes the paint bubble up in seconds - get two guys in each section. then once you do a whole section - low pressure wash off the latex - the flashing situated in the cracks, serves to prevent the next section from getting wet. Then repeat. Labor intensive - but might be much quicker then tons of stripper. And the infrared heat gun will never heat the wood past a certain point - so no danger of causing burn marks, just makes that latex bubble loose. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 PressurePros 248 Report post Posted January 19, 2007 This is a DIY customer LOL. Wants a chemical recommendation. I do these at $6 /sf and only in the off season and never paint. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 danster 15 Report post Posted January 19, 2007 You know what techinque I might try if someone called me for that. I would get that 12 or 16 inch flashing that comes in 50 foot rolls from the lumberyard when I do roofing. That I would unwind that and cut it into sections. And then section off an area of that porch - say 6 boards wide the whole length of the porch. Then I would get one of those infra-red heat guns, that makes the paint bubble up in seconds - get two guys in each section. then once you do a whole section - low pressure wash off the latex - the flashing situated in the cracks, serves to prevent the next section from getting wet. Then repeat. Labor intensive - but might be much quicker then tons of stripper. And the infrared heat gun will never heat the wood past a certain point - so no danger of causing burn marks, just makes that latex bubble loose. I would probably take the same route. Like you said earlier " What a mess". Looks to me the paint never bonded to the substrate to begin with. The wood probably had to high of a humidity content, they painted in extremely hot sun or it got too cold and painted anyway. From the looks of it its a latex porch and floor paint. Dan Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 James 624 Report post Posted January 19, 2007 Depending how large of a deck. Take a porter cable paint remover ( one day) or a floor sander. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 PressurePros 248 Report post Posted January 19, 2007 see above. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 James 624 Report post Posted January 19, 2007 Instead of a chem. Buy a Porter cable about 200 to 250. Or he can try the 310 Removal if there still around. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 yazbird8 17 Report post Posted January 19, 2007 Seems to me a chemical stripper recomendation would be hard to give if your not sure what is on the deck. Especially from a photo...I would think the only 2 sure ways would be to do a test on the deck itself....Or if they had some leftover paint or stain still available in the can that would be best.. Stephen Andrews Power Washing Home & Property Care & Maintenance Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Jarrod 22 Report post Posted January 19, 2007 Sand it, or sell him a wrecking ball. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 YVPW 20 Report post Posted January 19, 2007 If you use a stripper it's gonna have to be sanded anyway cause of the strength of the stripper. Although with a stripper you will get the biggest part off, and it's pretty much just knocking off fuzzies then Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 RPetry 564 Report post Posted January 20, 2007 Been sorting through some photos recently and came upon this gem. It is said a picture is worth a thousand words. Can you say "Do not use acrylic stains on exposed exterior wood" one hundred times? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Cat Powerwashing Inc. 17 Report post Posted January 20, 2007 I would powerwash loose paint. scrape any paint that powerwashing wood not remove, prime then apply a solid stain. easiest way! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 seymore 90 Report post Posted January 20, 2007 I would powerwash loose paint. scrape any paint that powerwashing wood not remove, prime then apply a solid stain. easiest way! I agree that would be the easiest way but i like the challenge of stripping a nasty deck back to bare wood.Then staining the deck with a quality oil base stain so the customer can enjoy the look of real wood.I hate the look of a solid stain that makes a deck look fake. When you have a deck that bad you just charge TOP $$ or whatever the customer is willing to pay and plan on 2 days to strip & clean.Now you can charge to have the deck also sanded but i think that deck can be stripped chemically cause I HATE SANDING! Mr.P/Pro what was the total sqft on this deck? The pic below took me about 1 1/2 days to strip but it was very satisfying when i was done! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 seymore 90 Report post Posted January 20, 2007 Here are a couple more pics to show with right chems and some patience the paint can be removed.This stuff here was multiple coats of a solid stain and paint on top of that. Hey RickP did you strip that purdy looking deck you posted? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 PressurePros 248 Report post Posted January 20, 2007 I have no idea of the square footage. The homeowner wanted to buy product and then have his handyman do the job. As soon as I saw the deck I recommended scrape/clean/prime/repaint with a solid. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 seymore 90 Report post Posted January 20, 2007 Ahhh that's true they had called you and you didn't go out on a bid.That's too bad the wood still looked pretty decent from that 1 picture Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 RPetry 564 Report post Posted January 21, 2007 Shane, Didn't get the job, not that I really wanted it. Tested a few specialty strippers on it and Back to Nature's BFSII was the most effective. In the intact areas, 3 separate layers of foul acrylic. The real shame was that the wood was rotten in some places, both on the floor and even vertical wood on the balustrade. This was old clear cedar. Figured the trapped moisture over the years just rotted the wood in places. You could literally poke your finger through the plastic acrylic film into some of the wood. If you could purchase similar quality cedar today, my best guess for knockdown and replacement was ~ $30K. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 seymore 90 Report post Posted January 21, 2007 Yeah Rick I know what you mean cedar is not so forgiving and will rot so fast unlike PT decking.I'm actually happy i don't see many cedar decks.I just have to put up with green PT pine now but cedar is so soft and need to be maintained better than pine. I know acrylics are tough but it feels good to strip that crap off and cursing Home Depot and Behr while i'm P/washing helps ease the headache a little :D Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 seymore 90 Report post Posted January 21, 2007 Rick you remember me posting this beautiful job?? Now of course it was a DIY'er with that great H.O friendly Behr crap! It took some work but i was happy how it came out.I kinda got lucky that they didn't have multiple layers! Ohh you see how the wood didn't get the fuzzies huh and i stripped that deck 3-4 times. :cool: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 RPetry 564 Report post Posted January 21, 2007 Argg, new post in a moment. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 RPetry 564 Report post Posted January 21, 2007 Shane, You are the master at custom avatars! Fear the BDA, what a hoot! In your honor I'll change mine for this one post in sympathy to the BDA cause. I like cedar. Agree its harder to work on but it just looks so great when finished correctly. Did an estimate yesterday morning on a job with clear, old cedar, well maintained and in good shape, with a failing Olympic stain which will be easy to strip. I want the job just because I know how great it will look when done. 'Course I have to be patient, another 2 months before the antifreeze is flushed from the pressure washers and pumps. Nice job on the Behr mess posted above. Looks like that junk with the Sillycone in it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 seymore 90 Report post Posted January 21, 2007 Mr.Bandito, Well i give Mr.Fenner all the credit for the avatar he has lots of time on his hands this winter i guess huh :D That's cool the Olympic crap will be an easy strip! How long the stain been on the deck? You do a test spot? It's always better if wood never has to be stripped especially cedar.It always looks like it aged so much more after stripping with S/H. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 RPetry 564 Report post Posted January 21, 2007 Snake-eyes Shane, How long the stain been on the deck? Not sure, new owner purchased the home this past August. My guess would be ~ 2 yrs. You do a test spot? Do bears relieve themselves in the woods? Learned long ago never do an estimate without a stripper kit. Aside from peace of mind, that nice new looking cedar spot brightened with citric acid is a great selling point when it dries. It's always better if wood never has to be stripped especially cedar.It always looks like it aged so much more after stripping with S/H. Amen to that. But thats why we use paraffinic oil based stains! (insert "smilely" here). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Customer said solid stain. It looks like paint to me. I only have this picture to go by. Notice the sheen up by the door.
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