Wood Tux Vs. ReadySeal

[fireandrain 39]

Searching through these threads, and I mean Ive been at it all day, I see a near split opinion spread on Ready Seal and Wood Tux. So lets lay it out, if you had to choose one over the other to use this summer, which would it be? IS it true that, with Tux, you can seal immediateley after pw'ing? If so, this may swing this guy's vote!

[seymore 90]

I vote other.....I would use neither and use Baker's Gray Away..:lglolly:

[MMI Enterprises 289]

He know not what kind of can of worms he put in everyones face do he???..:)

[RPetry 564]

Matt,

There is already a stain poll here on TGS that has been active since last year. It has a lot of votes. Maybe look around or someone can find it for you.

If you are just starting out I would advise you to try both stains. Two very different products. Make your own choice.

[MMI Enterprises 289]

Oh and it don't matter cause Baker's is supposed to be the bomb..haha..

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

been there, done that...

Rod!~

[PressurePros 249]

Wood Tux and Ready Seal are not in the same ball park. Two completely different products with different criteria for usage. Ready Seal would be put up against Wood Rich Timber Oil (also made by ESI). From the guys I have spoken to about it, it is supposed to be awesome.

[RPetry 564]

Matt,

The existing poll can be found here:

http://www.thegrimescene.com/forums/wood-cleaning-restoration-decks-fences-etc/6885-2006-sealer-poll-you-using-year.html

[northwestern 14]

I would of been using bakers gray away if the guy that I talked too at bakers would've sent me the info and samples like he said he would. Shane really has some good lookin' results. Dang...

[fireandrain 39]

hey guys, thanks for the info on the other poll! Whoooooops! Im embarassed that I put mine up now! Hey, Rod, feel free to axe my poll if you want, I dont want to crowd the board with a redundant poll. Thanks!

[MMI Enterprises 289]

watering down and spreading things out is what we do best. It has bennefits...it makes people have to work for things and keeps us busy..lol

[James 625]

The funniest thing I've read in a long time is Ken saying RS and WTW are totally different ? It took a long time but he get's it now! I think I tried to say that for the last 5 year's and put oils in to certain categories, but deaf ears pervailed. I have said much more that has also come to fruition about woodcare but I watch..

[PressurePros 249]

You are the man.

[Deck Guy 14]

The other poll asks what stain we will be using in 2006. Things have changed. Didn't Russel say that Wood Tux was reformulated this year?

As for me, the parafinnic oils have made my life so much easier, compared to the Sherwin-Wiilliams products I was using. I like ESI's Timber Oil as much as Ready Seal, and did I mention...it doesn't stink! Unfortunately, I think it's only available in one color...and I don't want to get involved in tinting my own. The Warm Honey Gold is a great color on the right project though.

I've yet to try Wood Tux, other that to create a few sample boards with it. If I hit a rainy spell, I might go that way.

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

How about this:

Wood Rich or Ready Seal if you want to compare apples to apples?

Rod!~

[MMI Enterprises 289]

Rod,

My preliminary take between two. (you didn't specify which Woodrich)...I now have the Woodrich Stain and Seal (wrss) which is a cross between wtw and timber oil on test boards of cedar, old redwood, and unexposed new redwood with both a smooth side and rough side alongside many other products. The RS lacks pigment compared to the WRSS (cedar board) and it is up in the air on whether it blackens on the new redwood as RS did for me. Gotta give it another week or two to see. On the rough side of the new redwood the WRSS shows grain contrast better and is similar to stinky Penofin. On both smooth old redwood spindles and exposed rough redwood the WRSS is very even and indeed looks rich in the western cedar color. On the smooth boards the WRSS gave only the slightest highlight/sheen to the microscopiclly raised grain when viewed at an angle whereas the RS imparted a slight sheen all over..Think it is but the evaporative paraffin element of the RS that causes this and suspect if I were to expose the board to the elements it would evaporate away in the sun. We already know the RS cleans up well off tarps and the like but do not know yet with the WRSS. I think it will from what I can tell of cleaning brushes and my hands. It sure does dive and flow..sponges into wood like nobodies business!. For what it's worth the WTW glitch had created a total loss on two types of tarps due to sticky uncleanability and so this is of concern for me anyways. Like who is gonna use lacquer thinner to clean a tarp with?

Few more weeks will give better picture after the WRSS settles in and shows it's end results...but considering what I seen so far and the fact the WRSS is a wet wood product it is sure to be the bomb compared to RS.. think it costs more though..

[Russell Cissell 65]

Larry

You can Get Woodrich Brand Timber Oil in Warm Honey Gold, Brown Sugar and Western Cedar.

All of our finishes come in the same colors. The only exception is that Wood-Tux is also available in a clear.

[Russell Cissell 65]

Kevin

Woodrich Brand Timber Oil is a closer match to RS.

If you still have your tarps, soak them in HD-80 and then rinse them with your powerwasher.

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

If you still have your tarps, soak them in HD-80 and then rinse them with your powerwasher.

I hesitate to think of where one might accomplish such a task.

My thoughts are a driveway which logic brings to mind first as an area large enough to accommodate most tarp sizes commonly used and commonly available to many of us who are home based. Some who have business locations may have other options but based upon the former, my questions are:

1.) If on asphalt, what would be the result be to the driveway? After repeated occurrences? Most contractors have multiple tarps, as many as 10+ I have heard.

2.) If on concrete, would it stain it?

3.) What about the residue of the stain? In the past where we have had to strip off newly applied stain, the amount of debris was significant and readily stuck anything it landed on.

4.) What about the runoff? What would that effect be on the curbing as it goes towards the nearest storm drain? Or, what about if it just puddles up and perhaps being a neighborhood, what if children (who like to play in puddles), pets or automobiles navigating the street were to become exposed to it?

5.) What about time? Who has the time to do this in the height of their busy season? Soaking them in a caustic may sound like a good idea but what are the hazards of doing so? Think about it. Trying to pull a heavily weighted tarp out of a large container of caustic without it getting on yourself and anything adjacent to it and making a mess. What about the exhausted caustic? Where to dispose of such a huge amount. Think a 5 gallon pail will do? Think again you say? Ok, a 55gal drum with the top cut off. Now, where does one keep that when not in use? How does one transfer the spent liquid, the scum residue and dispose of it properly?

Questions that need to be asked in order to decide whether it is feasible, reasonable or precarious.

I know how absurd or obvious some of these questions may sound but as a responsible business owner taking into account the impact our business can have on the environment if not employing B.M.P.'s (Best Management Practices) the results could be hazardous and if caught or turned in by someone observing the incidences could result in fines, penalties and loss of the ability to conduct business.

I personally have tried laundering them in a local laundromat only to find that the larger machines were inadequate to the task of cleaning these tarps (12 X 15) and mostly got them wet and left a significant amount of residue inside the machine as well as still remaining on the tarps themselves.

Keeping the tarp wet is a good idea if you want to avoid spontaneous combustion but then at that point we face carrying a tarp that now weighs up to 3xs its dry weight and no longer performs the function of protection. The residue can flow with the wet technology, oils, resins etc and become deposited on the very surface we are trying to protect.

Wet it down yes, then dispose of the darn thing and buy new ones and in the meantime, learn to control your over-spray and spills to avoid having to replace them so often is my advice.

Sorry for the distraction of the original topic which was concerning two products and preferences. This one admittedly needed addressing.

Rod!~

[MMI Enterprises 289]

..never use public laundromat (dryer especially) if Rod or some roofer has been around....sure fire way to ruin a whole load of clothes..haha.

Russell, Due to all them reasons Rod mentioned as well as chemical cost I felt it cheaper and easier to simply replace the tarps. Sticky resin wasn't coming off readily with neither mineral spirits or dishwashing liquid an hour after spraying in that heat wave we had...The carrier evaporated so quik that the few cups or so of waste wasn't running off poly tarps to safe ground as I would have prefurred.

Gonna stick purely with hvlp spray on verticles such as railing and lattice as there is way less waste. Sometimes there is just no way around not soaking a tarp though when you have to protect what is behind a wall made of lattice. The disposable plastic could seem to be an answer but really there not much difference between a full on poly tarp or the thin clear stuff as far as filling land fills with toxic waste.

Chalk such issues up to a plus for the RS/Timberoil catagory of stains in my opinion as they can just be rinsed off to suitable land with about anything.

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

We like to use large cardboard boxes (spliced open) for lattice to contain the spray and then wipe it off with a pad to catch the excess. Reusable too.

I hear you on the plastic in the landfills part. We use plastic (4mil) for the majority of our barrier needs and it gets used throughout about a dozen jobs or so before it no longer is suitable for use. At the end of each job, we fold all our plastic and roll it to contain the over-spray and use the inability to completely open it up as a gauge that it is ready for disposal.

Tarps perform a function of a backdrop when doing fence work or ground cover to gam out the area for protection from the spray to land upon.

Rod!~

[Deck Guy 14]

Larry

You can Get Woodrich Brand Timber Oil in Warm Honey Gold, Brown Sugar and Western Cedar.

All of our finishes come in the same colors. The only exception is that Wood-Tux is also available in a clear.

That's good to know. I may try the other colors if I get a suitable deck for one.

[Russell Cissell 65]

Cleaning your tarps is only a suggestion.

If you don't have a safe way of doing so I would not recommend it. It is obviously going to take more area than the average residential driveway affords.

This would be the kind of thing that is best done in a wash bay with adequate capture/contain capabilities.

[RPetry 564]

Rod,

A suggestion. We have been doing this for years with our tarps and Ready Seal. Don't see any reason why it would not be applicable to WoodTux.

When using RS on balustrade, we always drape canvas tarps on the outside to prevent overspray from the HLVP. Sometimes also on the inside, depending on deck configuration. After many uses, the tarps do get partially soaked with stain.

Many new customer jobs require stripping. Drape these "stained" tarps over the outside of the balustrade when applying your stripper. This helps prevent wayward stripper from harming grass or plants and cuts down on presoaking and rinsing foliage. Soak the tarps well with NaOH, allow to dwell, and pressure wash off the tarps, as well as the wood.

Alternately, you can spread the tarps out on a large deck floor, apply your stripper, and pressure wash the tarps. This gets a lot of the stain out of the canvas from normal overspray.

[MMI Enterprises 289]

Rod,

A suggestion. We have been doing this for years with our tarps and Ready Seal. Don't see any reason why it would not be applicable to WoodTux.

When using RS on balustrade, we always drape canvas tarps on the outside to prevent overspray from the HLVP. Sometimes also on the inside, depending on deck configuration. After many uses, the tarps do get partially soaked with stain.

Many new customer jobs require stripping. Drape these "stained" tarps over the outside of the balustrade when applying your stripper. This helps prevent wayward stripper from harming grass or plants and cuts down on presoaking and rinsing foliage. Soak the tarps well with NaOH, allow to dwell, and pressure wash off the tarps, as well as the wood.

Alternately, you can spread the tarps out on a large deck floor, apply your stripper, and pressure wash the tarps. This gets a lot of the stain out of the canvas from normal overspray.

Good advice man!!...buy stripper and stain for 4 and get the 5th done free...HAHA

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

My concern/question is how the customer views the use of their property and water to clean your tarps? Not saying it isn't a feasible idea though. It makes sense in it's own way.

I've never been that bold to take advantage of a client that way.

Inquiring minds...

Rod!~