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Christopher

For those that have over 200' on your reels for Power Washing

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I know some of you guys have way over 200' on your hose reels but do you use the hydraulic threaded couplers to join the several sections together or regular plug/couplers?

I just put on a hose reel that I had in storage and I have 200' on it and can put another 50' on it.

Just wondering how you guys do this. I know that the threaded coupler might be hard to disconnect later on but the plug/coupler will be a little easier, even if it is seized up.

I know some of you buy 100' or 50' sections and just add on until you get the length you want on the hose reels.

What are your connections you prefer?

_________________

Superior Power Washing

Chris Chappell

361-853-2513

Exterior House Cleaning in Corpus Christi Texas

Cleaning Concrete Driveways Sidewalks and Walkways in Corpus Christi Texas

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I've got 200-250 on each reel. All are 50footers and connected with qc's. If a hose blows it's nice not to be losing 100 ft at a time and I can keep on working after I take out the bad section. That actually just happened to me 2 days ago. sad.gif

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I use threaded couplers. the qc's gets so beat up dragging them around that the threaded is cheaper and more durable, with no chance of o ring failure on a hard to disable hose.

Should I need more hose than I have on the reel, I use qc's to add sections.

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I was also thinking of using the threaded couplers so no chance of o-ring failure too.

Not sure what I am going to do right now, I might hold off adding that extra 50' for now, just need to get used to this hose reel, it is wider than the Rapid Reel that I had on there but the sides are not as tall but it does hold more hose.

It is a cheap immitation of the Rapid Reel that I got on sale a year or so ago and I know the paint is going to start peeling like the other 2 I put on the trailer last year.

Within a few months of putting them on the trailer the paint started peeling off and they did not even have hose on them yet, I just wanted them on the trailer so as I got the hose I could start using them.

That is the last time I buy an off-brand hose reel. The Rapid Reels I got with the trailer in 2004 have been great, just wish I could fit more hose on them but the rust finally made them unusable and unsafe for pressure.

_________________

Superior Power Washing

Chris Chappell

361-853-2513

Exterior House Cleaning in Corpus Christi Texas

Cleaning Concrete Driveways Sidewalks and Walkways in Corpus Christi Texas

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That is a good idea of the hose protector.

I was going to use electrical tape or duct tape or maybe some of the heat-shrink tubing to put over the coupler so it does not get snagged so much.

Thanks.

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I use threaded couplers. the qc's gets so beat up dragging them around that the threaded is cheaper and more durable, with no chance of o ring failure on a hard to disable hose.

Should I need more hose than I have on the reel, I use qc's to add sections.

TokBox - Live Video Calling

Click above, this is similiar to what i use. No couplers

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I absolutely agree with Ron's choice of where the plug and coupler are to go. I plug hoses in and the wand or surfacer get the qc female coupler. Is logical to plug hoses into something and hoses are more readily had with male threaded ends on both end that therefore take the npt coupler to join them or accept the fnpt-male plug end. Reel whip gets plug and so does the DSer (which is backwards btw on the Allison SSS..had to change it around). Machine out and unloader block outlets get the female. Such arrangement allows for easy removal of DSer or bypassing of heater or plugging a small hose or jumper in...just my 2 cent.

ps- a female on hose end joining things up could snag on a corner and in theory unlock.

Edited by MMI Enterprises

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ps- a female on hose end joining things up could snag on a corner and in theory unlock.
Brings up a good question, I seem to be backwards on many Ive seen. I have a male QC on the hose end, female on whatever Im connecting to it. My reason is when winding the hose up a female (being larger) will catch on more stuff and will wear out faster from being drug on concrete/asphalt. A male QC is smaller, doesnt even touch the ground most of the time, and when it does need replaced is much cheaper.

Which way do yall do it?

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The machines we promote all have a plug on the machine. You then hook into a socket. The basic reason for this is to protect the o-ring from coming out when disconnecting. Water flowing INTO the socket will help keep the o-ring in it, while water flowing out of the socket has a tendency to push the o-ring out while disconnecting. It's really a personal choice about using QC's on a hose reel. Many like it but many do not. They are cause of bulk on the reel. They are convienant for swapping hoses. I like using the FPT couplers in between lengths and using a QC at the ends. Less likely to come apart; less likely to leak; less bulk on the reel. A previous post in this thread mentioned to keep pipe wrenchs at hand. Boy Scout motto: Be prepared! Whichever way you use, that motto should be used.

Edited by Tracy Handl
spelling

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ps- a female on hose end joining things up could snag on a corner and in theory unlock.

This has happened so the theory is fact. As a result, we put the socket on the end of the first line holding the gun. This way the collar is kept in place by friction and does not come off. Also, we keep the plastic hose restrictors pulled up to the connection to make a bridge which also helps to keep it cleaner. Not perfect but it works.

The hose is hard threaded to the reel with a swivel to help keep it from knotting up. I also have a ball valve at the outlet of the machine to shut off any line (2 gun system) that has a problem. This also allows me to change whip hoses between the machine and reel without stopping the unit.

In addition, I use a whip line with a mosmatic swivel before the gun and my guys love it. Keeps the loops out of the line and no spinning needed to un-tangle them. I had a gun go bad on one and had to change it out for another that didn't have the whip line on it and my crewman grumbled and groused about it. Oh well...

Rod!~

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Great idea of the unloader block Kevin!

I am working on something, maybe a bypass because when I have the downstream injector connected, it restricts the flow to the surface cleaner enough that it does not clean as good as it should so I slow down the machine, turn it off and take out the downstream injector.

I am thinking about a bypass for the injector so it can stay in one place but when I need to use the surface cleaner, just open the bypass and close the valve to the injector.

It is simple enough but it will cost like $80.00 for the 2 ball valves, "t"s, and fittings to do this and maybe 2 times a year change out the ball valves and more often than that, change out the downstream injector.

I thought about putting a ball valve on the end of the whip hose before the injector but when working with Hot water, I don't want to take a chance again with getting burned in case the ball valve leaks when taking out the injector.

Any other ideas?

Thanks.

_______________

Superior Power Washing

Chris Chappell

361-853-2513

Low Pressure Roof Cleaning in Corpus Christi Texas

Shingle Roof Washing and Tile Roof Washing in Corpus Christi Texas

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Can't say I have ever lost an o ring at the machine outlet as I have never ever had the need or desire to unplug there while machine is running or has any pressure.. have lost them out of the 1/4 tip couplers though. I see it as backwards design on machines utilizing a male plug for main output and such obviously has been effecting decissions of the designers of the add on DSer's.

Chris, The female qc on unloader block and on machines main outlet which allows for the easy bypassing of heater or streamers appears to be stock on my older Mi-t-M.

Rod, Yea the right name for that protector thing I mentioned going over is a restricter hu?..lol. I pull it right over nice and tight and pretty much always tends to go around house corners and the like. I cut off the leading one that comes on the hose before it or it will slide around on hose.

Edited by MMI Enterprises

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Chris,

I switched to JIC many years ago.

I have used short hoses in the past, I did not like the lumps when I rolled the hose up. Can you give me an idea how long the total connection is when you use JIC?

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That is a good idea of the hose protector.

I was going to use electrical tape or duct tape or maybe some of the heat-shrink tubing to put over the coupler so it does not get snagged so much.

Thanks.

Hose, like heater hose. I tried hose clamps, but kept snagging my fingers and tearing the skin. Fortunatly, the lye kept the infection under control. I thought about gluing the heater hose in place, but never got around to trying that. I use 150 feet of hose for cleaning hoods. I think you flat workers abuse your hoses more than I do. I get 3-4 years from my hoses.

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Ive used both in the past and ended up using the qc's for the attachments

its not as smooth and takes up too much reel space .

my preference is 100 footers then qc on the end.

the fancier you make it the more it costs , and the more time repairing/ maintaining = $$$ lost...

my 2 cents

Ron S

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