Do you have to seal the end grain of IPE?

[flyboy320 14]

Just wondering what the thought is of sealing the end grain after cutting IPE. The way I understand it, is that this will help stop cracks from developing. What about if the end of the plank is not visible, ie., like the end of the board will later be faced with wood, is it worth while doing it then?

If the end of board is left uncovered and visible, and its left untreated, if the the cracks develop, are they deep cracks, or is it more of a visual thing than anything else?

What product do you use to seal the end grain with? Is it a stain, varnish, etc.?

Cheers...

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

Yes, Use Anchor Seal or an equivalent end grain sealant.

Rod!~

[RPetry 564]

John,

Anchor Seal is the ticket. It does prevent cut end ipe' from "checking", or developing small, thin cracks. Just be real careful in applying, the stuff is darn near permanent and if you get it on the upside "face" of the ipe', stain will not adhere.

[flyboy320 14]

OK, will do, thanks guys...

[PressurePros 248]

No. It makes more mess than it is worth. Ipe will check and crack to a small extent whether you do it or not.

[acegot 14]

No. It makes more mess than it is worth. Ipe will check and crack to a small extent whether you do it or not.

The anchor seal makes a huge difference, Ive seen large end cut checking cracks on 8-12 yr old unsealed ipe etc. Nasty

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

The anchor seal makes a huge difference, Ive seen large end cut checking cracks on 8-12 yr old unsealed ipe etc. Nasty

Yes it does. A HUGE difference.

Beth

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

Sorry Ken, gotta disagree with ya on this one.

End-grain on ANY wood is vulnerable at this point. Sealing the end-grain of a board is helping to extend that life significantly and also improve the longevity of the fasteners hold located close to this segment.

Yes, checking does happen along the entire run of a board over time as we don't coat all sides of one, thus enabling dimensional flux along with the deterioration of the lignin by UV exposure to un-protected wood.

Rod!~

[PressurePros 248]

I've had the discussion with builders around the country. One in particular has been working with hardwoods and ipe for over a decade. He stopped using end grain sealer and said he sees no difference. The decks I maintain that have no wax or sealant, while I don't see every one, also look fine.

This is another one of those bleach/don't bleach topics I suppose. Normally I would say err on the side of caution and seal the ends. But as Rick mentioned, the stuff is permanent. If you get even a drop anywhere but that end grain, its never gonna take stain.

Edited November 7, 2009 by PressurePros

[James 624]

On ipe I find no benefit and I take care of some old stuff that has none and very large and I don't seal any more 4000k sqft another 3k no sealing and no end sealing both perfect. On the Mahog type wood I do see a benefit it causes big problems and rot if not sealed. The cheaper the hardwood the more it benefits!I shouldn't say cheaper , maybe the less dense it is ? Some mahog's are more pricey than Ipe.

Edited November 7, 2009 by James

[acegot 14]

The other thing I've seen is when the end cuts arent sealed, is when you restore the deck the color does'nt come back as nice on the ends. (as any wood does & that you've seen). Thats one of the things that bothers me is when you restore (sanded or not saneded, but especially sanded)a deck that has not been maintained regularly, is the discolored ends of the boards.

[plainpainter 217]

I'll have to file this under the 'who cares' column. First of all this is a problem of a deck builder not deck restorers, nothing we can do once the boards are screwed down into place. And even if we were installing decks - the better question is, will folks pay more to have anchor seal applied to the ends? And what's the worst that would happen if by not applying it - you get end checking? Folks have to spend more money rebuilding their decks more often? Doesn't sound like a problem to me.

[acegot 14]

All wood cracks & or checks badly out here. The sunny hot dry weather out here is brutal on exterior wood.

And to repond to Daniel's comments, I care! I build decks too, & I seal all endcuts on all woods, covered or not. You spent a lot time writing about something you dont care about.

[James 624]

I thought about this a little and I haven't seen a Ipe board checking badly due to not sealing the end grain. However;if your into preventive maint seal it.

Now as far as Dan's responses go " the who care column" or " what did he say" or" does he really know about that" or " is she really going out with him ?" sums uP what I think when " the plain painter" is handing out info !!! lol

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

+1 with Jim.

I take wood care and the information about it very seriously so it does bother me to see that attitude in people who work in this same facet of wood restoration.

Yes, I will agree that not much can be done once the installation is complete. But the question is for the homeowners benefit as to what to expect if it is not vs if it is.

As far as the 'does sealing the end-grain work or not' in helping with Ipe, I guess time will tell. Ipe is a 100 year wood and most of us have only seen it in installations for 10 years or less since it began its popularity and not necessarily the same deck for that period of time.

We have had some very diligent builders here and they have sealed the end-grain.

For the decks we have seen without the end-grain being sealed, it is hard to tell at this point but it is certainly worth tracking.

The one characteristic I have noticed in one deck (just one so far) is that the fasteners (stainless steel) popped at the shank in a few places. This in my opinion would be attributed to dimensional flux caused by absorption/loss of moisture and in Ipe specifically, this is more likely to happen through the end-grain.

Now, with reference to the longevity of any stain in association with sealed/un-sealed end-grain in combination with the uncertainty principle introduced by the EPA VOC regulation mandates...who knows!

I guess we will all (except you Daniel) will be watching this over time as we evaluate our products performance and determining which is best for the conditions present and of course...longevity/maintainability etc.

Rod!~

Edited November 8, 2009 by Beth n Rod

[plainpainter 217]

Oh get real guys, you know me - I use strippers and brighteners, use a $2,500 floor sander after using a low pressure wash and I use that A.C. Clark stain. So obviously I do care - but this anchor seal is just one bit up in the stratosphere. Heck when I was installing cedar clapboard siding - I had an open gallon of oil prime and sealed the end cuts before nailing it in place. And I would pre-cut a piece of tar felt to go behind each cut where two clapboards me - so ingress of water wouldn't find it's way behind the siding.

Alas - all my competitors including the very highest end builders never did either of these practices, and nobody paid me more because I did it. Folks see the price on a contract - but they don't see strips of felt behind siding - nor the end cuts sealed and nailed out of view. At some point, if homeowners don't care - why should I?

[RPetry 564]

... At some point, if homeowners don't care - why should I?

Daniel,

In general, its not that homeowners don't care, its that they don't know. As a professional, customers depend on your expertise and craftsmanship. Thats why they pay you.

[acegot 14]

From the Restorers outlook, on a new or newer deck of anywood, that does'nt have sealed endcuts, if you load up the ends of the boards between the facia, it will protect well with regular maint.

[acegot 14]

daniel,

in general, its not that homeowners don't care, its that they don't know. As a professional, customers depend on your expertise and craftsmanship. Thats why they pay you.

...+1

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

Alas - all my competitors including the very highest end builders never did either of these practices, and nobody paid me more because I did it. Folks see the price on a contract - but they don't see strips of felt behind siding - nor the end cuts sealed and nailed out of view. At some point, if homeowners don't care - why should I?

And therein lies my point, you didn't specify it so you cut off your own nose to spite your face man.

That in itself is called a 'Value added Service" and should be on a line itemized proposal, otherwise, how is the customer to know what separates you from the others and specifically in what way?

You obviously had a bit more involvement in your process and that was a missed opportunity for your business that it wasn't pointed out.

Rod!~

[acegot 14]

These photos of a deck I worked on a month ago. THIS IS WHY HARDWOODS SHOULD BE MAINTAINED (sealed) & THE END CUTS WAXED(sealed). Don't know how old the deck is, but it had a couple of coats of something on it for 3 or so years.