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trugracie

Help understanding the "Ball-Valve and down-streamer" method.

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I have been in the Kitchen Exhaust business for 5 years now, and was wanting to start on the residential side.

Well after I started doing some research, and looking at extension poles, x-jet, and all the other stuff I decided to go with the method on this video.

I downstream almost all my restaurant hoods, however I know the 40 degree/soap nozzle doesn't shoot very far to chemical treat 2 story houses.

My setup is:

Northstar 3.5GPM 4000psi pressure washer.

Northstar 250 degree heater/Steamer.

Super suds sucker chemical injector.

I know its not a top of the line setup, but with our method of lots of scraping and great chemical, I can practically get away with a garden hose.

Any way..... Would you guys please be so kind as to tell me exactly what parts/setup I need to shoot exactly like on this video?

Thank you in advance!!!

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A hot ball valve probably wouldn't feel good for long. A regular or linear trigger gun would be better. You could couple the "shooter tips" right at the gun outlet. Shooter tips are 0030, 0040, 0050, etc. Basically a zero degree nozzle with a huge orifice which will allow a downstream injector to activate. You could use zero tips for reach at different pressures too. With your 3.5 gpm, a #00055 would give you about 2,000 psi, and a 00075 would net you about 1,000 psi.

Edited by Russ Johnson

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Thank you for the info Russ!

Not sure if we're on the same page though. My chemical injector is after my machine right before the hose.

From what I can tell this system you're talking about involves dragging an additional hose around according to the following website.

General Pump 100145 - High Pressure Soap Shooter Nozzle with Rinse Capability (#4.0)

Now is this nozzle available as just a trigger end alone WITHOUT having to drag another hose around?

I don't know if its just me, but this seems to be just like the X-Jet but cheaper! :confused:

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If that is the way you want to go then be prepared for some situations that it will not handle.

I will give credit to 'one story' washing with low pressure but in my neck of the woods, these are just one side of the house.

The others are typically 2 - 3-1/2 stories and I guarantee you, that set-up will NOT reach those places.

I know I am going to start an argument here but you asked for advice on doing something which looks great but doesn't take into account any other

factors.

I'd like to see that set-up work in any 10-15 mph winds that can be found pushing through between 2 houses. Having been frustrated trying to get soap on the siding before it is blown around the corner, I can tell you...this set-up will leave you unable to complete the job.

-Get an m-5 jet. It has an adjustable nozzle which allows a fan pattern for up close use and a stream pattern for long distance application.

you will need a separate container for your chems close by. Sorry, but this is work and doing it right requires certain compromises on the operators part.

-Buy an extension lance (8'-10'). This helps with reach and access to high places over roof extensions and valleys between dormers and gables.

-Get an extension pole. Purdy sells one that extends 18' with quick click features for fast extension and reduction.

-Pick up a couple of wash type brushes. You will need them for hard to reach and stubborn stains bleach alone will not get. These are examples. Where you get them is up to you.

ie. Carbon staining and clay staining, windy days and uneven terrain a ladder will not be safe on.

-Look into the chemistry involved in cleaning the most common forms of contaminants found on siding, brick, stucco etc.

Bleach and simple cherry are not the magic bullet. Trust me, there is more to it than this and part of it is a liability for bleach left on the surface.

Some stains like aluminum oxidation found commonly below capped windows and more cannot be removed by bleach or most soaps. You will need a mild acid.

Clay stains also need an acid.

In the video, (Sorry Micheal) there is no where near enough rinsing going on and I can guarantee the mold will regrow within 6 months due to insufficient

rinsing. You will need a rinse aid and hot water (120* max on vinyl).

That temp alone will make holding onto a ball valve for extended periods very uncomfortable.

Meanwhile, keep in mind, this video is not a typical example of a house. It is one side, one story and quite easy. I wish they were all like this but they are not.

Next time you are driving through a neighborhood, take some time to seriously consider each house you see, look at the construction design, the landscape, terrain, the roof pitch, the extensions such as porches, dormers, gables and eaves, trees and other plantings which can inhibit access.

Consider how you would have to access each of these and keep in mind working from the ground and that you must keep 'line of sight' in mind.

You are moving into a new segment of this industry and you are obviously supporting a family and wanting to be as effective as possible to make money.

Invest in the proper tools, equipment and soaps and you will do well.

Don't take one videos word that this is the be-all-end-all solution. It demonstrates well what is possible with that set up but in our experience, it doesn't fill the needs we face on the home styles found in our area.

I hope this post helps you to make the decision that is right for you. If what is in the video is sufficient for your area's home styles and you don't have a great deal of tall homes, clay staining, carbon staining, clay staining (found at base and foundations)...get the setup as shown.

Ball valve, low pressure injector (attached to the pumps outlet) and whatever bleach + simple cherry.

Otherwise, look into the other tools.

Rod!~

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Well put Rod.

I didn't watch the video but if it is the one I think it is, it is just pros showing what can be done using normal tools outside of their design parameters. It was never intended to be a sustainable style of washing.

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Just so you know you have everything you need except for the 0030, 0040, and 0050 tips and the ball valve, if you don"t have one.

Another approach would be to purchase a Hi-Lo Fan Nozzle sized to your machine, the tips above and the ball valve. This set-up would allow you to do just about any residential cleaning you would encounter. Total cost would be less than $60. Also, add a tennis ball to you gun to hold the trigger open.

One thing for sure is this method is NOT safe. The higher you spray the more psi is needed. If you go above 2000psi you could have a safety problem and possibly an OSHA problem. If something were to happen and you dropped the ball valve it could flop around and injure you or damage property. Just something to think about. One OSHA fine would cost 100 times what a simple $60 set-up would cost. It is much louder than a trigger gun as well.

Just my two cents.

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That is an xjet copy, but that's not how to do it.

The larger nozzles I mentioned will allow your chem injector to work, then the smaller ones will shut it off for rinsing.

Sorry to be such a dummy, but could you please elaborate?

Sooo I'm guessing it goes: Machine, chem injector, pressure hose, gun with lance, and the tip WITHOUT the injector hose it comes with???

Does the hole on the tip where the chem hose normally go have to be plugged?

If that is the way you want to go then be prepared for some situations that it will not handle.

I will give credit to 'one story' washing with low pressure but in my neck of the woods, these are just one side of the house.

The others are typically 2 - 3-1/2 stories and I guarantee you, that set-up will NOT reach those places. ..........etc ....etc

Rod!~

Thank you for all the great information, and time you took to explain.

I do have an extension rod that I use for my duct scraper that is 24' as well as brushes and a foam squeegee for windows.

I am not saying that I will not use the X-Jet, however like you said, there are houses around here where I would not need such a beast, and the system that mentioned to use the 0040 etc. tips is probably suited to start and get my feet wet on this particular industry.

Just so you know you have everything you need except for the 0030, 0040, and 0050 tips and the ball valve, if you don"t have one.

Another approach would be to purchase a Hi-Lo Fan Nozzle sized to your machine, the tips above and the ball valve. This set-up would allow you to do just about any residential cleaning you would encounter. Total cost would be less than $60. Also, add a tennis ball to you gun to hold the trigger open.

One thing for sure is this method is NOT safe. The higher you spray the more psi is needed. If you go above 2000psi you could have a safety problem and possibly an OSHA problem. If something were to happen and you dropped the ball valve it could flop around and injure you or damage property. Just something to think about. One OSHA fine would cost 100 times what a simple $60 set-up would cost. It is much louder than a trigger gun as well.

Just my two cents.

This all sounds very interesting!

Could you please explain how to set it up, and where to get the pieces from?

How far/high will it shoot?

The last time I tried to search for "Shooter Tips" I got a X-Jet like product.

I've got an extra gun with a 48" wand on it, would the connection be after that???

The way I downstream for my hoods is by simply changing the tip from whatever degree to soap tip, and then back.

so from what I'm getting is:

Machine, chem injector, pressure hose, gun with wand (and tennis ball), Hi-lo fan nozzle, and 0030 etc. tips????

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Call Russ, he posted earlier in this thread. He knows what you need, and will ship it to your door.

Good post Rod.

Say, be very careful with anything that locks the trigger (tennis Ball, cable cuff) while using high psi. I know first hand this could cause very serious injury.......I will never use one again!

Edited by chrishartje
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I usually just use a trigger gun without a wand for most house washes. See photos below. The Hi-Lo Variable Fan nozzle will reach 30-35 feet with no problem. Simply put, the Hi-Lo Variable Fan Nozzle adjusts by pulling the nozzle outwards to produce low pressure and chemical and push it back in to produce high pressure and no chemical. You can also adjust the fan width from 0-65 degrees. Very versatile tool.

Most pressure washing equipment companies carry them. Just do a search for a Hi-Lo Variable Fan Nozzle. You can also get the 0030 and 0040 tips from equipment suppliers.

Machine, injector, high pressure hose, trigger gun, hi-lo variable fan nozzle or tip.

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Thank you everybody for your input and opinions in the matter.

After I gathered all your information I made some calls to Bob with Pressuretek, and Chriss from Zep.

They both got me set up with chemicals and equipment I'm eager to try, and hopefully its something I can flourish with and expand my business to be as successful as you guys.

Once again I greatly appreciate each and every one of you!!!

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Those tips will definitely reach high places. Hopefully, the 0010 and 0015 won't pull chemical and you can use them to rinse high places without removing the chemical line from the cleaning solution. Just remember these tips are 0 degrees so be careful the closer you get to the house.

Equipment suppliers also sale a 3 and/or 4 nozzle holder so you can screw various tip sizes into one nozzle either in a straight line or a triangle pattern. This allows you to change tips without having to keep up with different single size tips in your pocket. You could have one set-up for most single story homes and another for 2-3 story homes.

I would still consider a Hi-Lo Variable Fan Nozzle. It's worth the $20 to see if you like it. Some people don't like them because you can blow the o-ring out when puling the trigger. I solve this by using my ball valve to slowly turn the gun on when I'm ready to wash. Probably similar to a flow type unloader but I have never used one so I'm not sure. Maybe someone on here uses this type unloader and this nozzle and they could let us know if they have that problem. This nozzle is easier to work with because you rarely have to change it during a house wash. It's like a "one size fits all" tool. I do use both applications as well as an X-jet. They all have their place in specific situations.

Sounds like you are on the right track - good luck!

Edited by WashRite

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One thing for sure is this method is NOT safe. The higher you spray the more psi is needed. If you go above 2000psi you could have a safety problem and possibly an OSHA problem. If something were to happen and you dropped the ball valve it could flop around and injure you or damage property. Just something to think about. One OSHA fine would cost 100 times what a simple $60 set-up would cost. It is much louder than a trigger gun as well.

Just my two cents.

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What is an OSHA viiolation? The tennsis ball in the pw gun or the 2,000 PSI?

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My understanding is any psi over 2000 cannot be used in an open gun format whether using an open gun, using velcro or tape to keep trigger open, or a ball valve partially opened. I very well could be wrong and don't recall where I picked up this information but I can tell you at 2000psi the gun will not flop around. I can also tell you that using an open gun at 3500psi can definitely hurt you. I'm trying to locate a picture from last year where I was using an open gun @ 3500psi and a wasp landed on my hand. It stung me and I let go of the gun and it turned on me. Yea, I finally won but you couldn't tell it by looking at me. If I can find it I will post it. This is when I ran across the safety requirement for operating an open gun.

That is when I went with the tennis ball approach. The ball will pop out if it hits the ground shutting the gun off. I actually use the tennis balls on everything including surface cleaning. It helps with fatigue in my hands from holding the trigger open all day.

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Those tips will definitely reach high places. Hopefully, the 0010 and 0015 won't pull chemical and you can use them to rinse high places without removing the chemical line from the cleaning solution. Just remember these tips are 0 degrees so be careful the closer you get to the house.

Equipment suppliers also sale a 3 and/or 4 nozzle holder so you can screw various tip sizes into one nozzle either in a straight line or a triangle pattern. This allows you to change tips without having to keep up with different single size tips in your pocket. You could have one set-up for most single story homes and another for 2-3 story homes.

I would still consider a Hi-Lo Variable Fan Nozzle. It's worth the $20 to see if you like it. Some people don't like them because you can blow the o-ring out when puling the trigger. I solve this by using my ball valve to slowly turn the gun on when I'm ready to wash. Probably similar to a flow type unloader but I have never used one so I'm not sure. Maybe someone on here uses this type unloader and this nozzle and they could let us know if they have that problem. This nozzle is easier to work with because you rarely have to change it during a house wash. It's like a "one size fits all" tool. I do use both applications as well as an X-jet. They all have their place in specific situations.

Sounds like you are on the right track - good luck!

First of all thank you for your help and pointers.

I actually did order the quad nozzle holder from PT just forgot to mention it. Also I do plan on getting the Hi-lo nozzle in the near future, however I should be good for now.

Today I went to a buddy of mines house and washed his old, beat up, and somewhat rotten deck. I did the best I could but its very evident I need more practice.

Well not much else to say but thanks for everything, and please don't mind if I bug you again!!! :)

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I have to agree with Rod in a perfect climate the spray nozles work just fine but when you encounter tall houses windy days very difficult to reach and clean properly unless you use an x jet

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