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COACHS

pressure washer overheating

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you muyst verify ifit is spark, or fuel problem..

do the spark check,

If you DO get spark..

Spray carb-cleaner into the carb (with air-filter removed),

and if it tries to start.. you have proven a fuel supply problem.

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you muyst verify ifit is spark, or fuel problem..

do the spark check,

If you DO get spark..

Spray carb-cleaner into the carb (with air-filter removed),

and if it tries to start.. you have proven a fuel supply problem.

Jerry,

Thanks for the input. I got a spark tester today..only $7... I have a big job on Tuesday so it will probably die then so I will try the spark test. My hunch is no spark. Would this mean a coil is bad? Can the service center do a test on the coil to see if its bad?

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1. You know you have a problem. Write down the problem, when it occurs, dates and times. Note what your findings are, and what you have done.

2. Local warrenty dealer does not want to work on something they did not sell and will not make any money on. Call E-spec again. Try to get them to put pressure on the factory. Don't be disappointed when you get no results from e-spec, common response with them. Call the Kohler factory. Tell them your problem, and what you have done. Tell them E-spec is of no help and the local shop doesn't want to work on it.

2. The problem happens after 4 to 5 of use

3. The warrenty shop starts the engine and pumps water for 4 to 5 hours. When the engine stops, they look at the easy stuff, what you already did, fuel cap, fuel lines sucked shut, oil level, engine shut off. Then, while the engine is hot, they check the coil, check spark plug wiring, plug, whatever else they might think of. Worst case scenario, buy a Vanguard or Honda. Anf never buy from those that did not help

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..and just so you know..

even if a local Kohler service-center wont "admit" it..

Kohler has an "emergency-repair policy"..

If it is a critical engine to your health (generator runs air-cond. in the desert.)

or in your ability "to provide income"..

they will cover overtime-wages submitted by the service center,

..for the rapid elimination of downtime.

It's been a long time since I've had to submit a claim like that, so check me on this,

But.. certainly worth"asking about. Eh?

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If Kohler had any integrity they would swap out that engine for a new one and study the old engine for the source of the problem. A different customer has had or will have this problem and it would be nice if Kohler knew the solution right away.

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The pw died on me tonight after a short use so I hooked a spark plug tester to each spark plug wire and there was spark from each wire... so I guess that means it must be a fuel problem. right? The spark plug wires were quite hot though. I felt the fuel line and it was just warm so I don't know how the fuel could be evaporating and causing the engine to starve. I did see pockets of air in the fuel line. Would this point to fuel getting to hot and cavitating in the fuel line? I just don't understand how this could happen with the engine exhaust being exited out the trailer floor, all trailer doors open and a fan pointed directly at the engine.

John from e-spec had me email him pictures of my trailer and my pw setup. He said he has a theory on the engine problem. I'll let you know what he says after he views my pictures I emailed him.

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If you are in an enclosed trailer you may try switching the oil to a straight 30W it has corrected oil shutdown issues with me in the past. I had units that the oil would get so thin because of te heat it would shut down the unit.

#2 on that machine is there a thermal shutdown? On the inlet side of the pump there may be a thermal sensor (looks like a high limit switch)1315270501104-1569004952.jpegthat is designed to shut the motor down if the water gets too hot. Try disconnecting it it may be causing it to kill the engine even if it is not hot.

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I have spent many hours talking to John Allison from e-spec and others he works with via email today. Some think it is getting too hot in the carburetor and vaporizing fuel. They are sending me a heat shield to put between the muffler and engine, also we are talking about moving the engine's fuel intake to the other side of the engine away from the muffler to see if that fixes the stalling problem. Other I have been talking to don't think it is a heat issue... maybe a pin hole leak in the fuel line or something clogging the fuel line. He thinks I should put a new fuel filter on the line and run the line into an external fuel tank to see if it stalls. My head is spinning. I just want my new pw to work.post-9419-137772432446_thumb.jpg

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If you are in an enclosed trailer you may try switching the oil to a straight 30W it has corrected oil shutdown issues with me in the past. I had units that the oil would get so thin because of te heat it would shut down the unit.

#2 on that machine is there a thermal shutdown? On the inlet side of the pump there may be a thermal sensor (looks like a high limit switch)1315270501104-1569004952.jpegthat is designed to shut the motor down if the water gets too hot. Try disconnecting it it may be causing it to kill the engine even if it is not hot.

Paul,

Here is a picture of my unit. Do you see a thermal sensor? How do you disconnect it if you see it?

Also, the straight 30W oil... I don't think I have used it before. I have only used 5w-30 and 10w-30. Why would the straight 30W be better?

thanks

post-9419-1377724325_thumb.jpg

Edited by COACHS

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Paul,

I just read a couple of articles on 30W oil. Now I understand the differences. I see what you were talking about. It sounds like the straight 30W would be worth a try.

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Well I've been scratching my head over these last few days, & all I keep coming back to is; Fuel restriction Air restriction.....or an incorrectly set exhaust valve. But having said that, you'd think it would happen sooner rather than later Broken valve spring maybe?

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Sorry for your problems with the unit. A brand new pressure washer should not have these issues and it should of been fixed a long time ago.

Kohler... nice toilets but lousy engines.

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Have you tried new plugs? I know you're getting spark from the coil but the plug(s) might be failing.

I have not tried that yet. It would be worth a try. Today I am going to move the fuel intake the other side of the engine, away from the muffler. This was recommended by the manufacturer of the pw skid. If the fuel is cavatating this should fix that problem.

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I am curious as to how many of you members use an enclosed trailer or enclosed box truck and if you could tell me briefly how it is rigged. Tell us is the pw in the front or rear? Do you have the engine exhaust out the floor? Do you ever need to blow a fan on the engine? How many doors are open for ventilation? And what ever else you can think of. I am just really curious as to how many of you use enclosed trailers or box trucks and if overheating or fuel line cavatation has ever been an issue.

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My machine sits inside a trailer, Wells Cargo 14 foot with a side door. It's in the front next to the side door with the muffler pointing out. Never had a problem with the heat.

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My trailer is 12 long and 7 wide. I started by letting the engine exhaust vent into the trialer. Then I had the muffler shop run the exhaust through the floor. He took a pipe nipple, & welded it to a floor flange. Then the exhaust pipe has about 1" inch of clearance to the pipe nipple. It is quieter inside the trailer and noisier outside the trailer. I also am carefull not to part the trailer over weeds and dry grass.

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I am curious as to how many of you members use an enclosed trailer or enclosed box truck and if you could tell me briefly how it is rigged. Tell us is the pw in the front or rear? Do you have the engine exhaust out the floor? Do you ever need to blow a fan on the engine? How many doors are open for ventilation? And what ever else you can think of. I am just really curious as to how many of you use enclosed trailers or box trucks and if overheating or fuel line cavatation has ever been an issue.

I run both Mi-T-M and hydroteks in vans with no issues.

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Paul, is the switch connected to the ignition system or is it hooked to the fuel solenoid? He's still got spark.

Russ,

Could the fuel solenoid be bad and that is causing it to kill the engine?

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