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Using "Home Center" parts

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Can anyone comment about using parts from a home center in your high pressure loop? There was a previous thread about a HD ball valve exploding, but I'm not talking about valves and T's and such. Just simple parts like pipe nipples, reducers, etc. I ask because I needed a tip socket for a gun of mine. The only socket I had was female, as was the gun. So I purchased a 1" long 1/4 NPT brass nipple and used it to mate the socket to the gun. I haven't tested it yet, and I'm a little leary as a failure would be awfully close to my chest and face.

Interestingly, the brass nipples had no rating but the identical steel ones were listed at 150psi?!? That has to be wrong. If the steel is rated at 150, the brass must have a burst pressure of about 50psi....

Philip

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I think i used the same brass piece you are talking about. I used 2 to convert the threading of a short lance I had. I have not had any problems at 3500 psi and 4.5 gpm. I had the same thinking as you...they looked pretty sturdy and the ones online and in the catalogs looked pretty similar. I think if something did happen it would be with the threading first.

Let's see if anyone else chimes in on this....

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havent used any of that stuff for the high pressure ends.... but the whole shurflo setup is built with HD and Menards plumbing...

my only concern would be using it in areas that are always under pressure (ie before the gun or a high pressure ball valve)

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I use all kinds of plumbing connectors from hardware stores. I don't use ball valves or any type of swivel though. Just connecting pieces of pipe, steel elbows and stuff like that. Never had a problem and I've been doing it for years.

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We like a ball valve at the end of the hose before the gun. The reason is, if you need to change guns or attachments you don't need to go back and turn off the machine to switch each time. That is a time saver. Just shut the flow off at the end of the hose and QC the new gun or attachment on, and you are ready to roll.

We use a variety of other plumbing as well, but the hydraulic pressure connection we don't like as much, they seem more unreliable, once you disconnect one it seems to leak afterwards. We have not found that to be a problem with a standard threaded fitting. (we use those in place of the hydraulic ones on our hose reels)

Beth :groovy2:

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Beth or anyone,

The only ball valve I have found are big and heavy any suggestions where to get one that want make me feel that I am holding a 5lb bag of sugar.

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Never heard of a ball valve "exploding".....spring a leak...sure, have the packing fail...sometimes. I have used a $7.00 ball valve from a local hardware store for years that is brass. I snug the packing up before I install it (under the handle there is a second nut) and havent ever had a problem. They usually last 6 months or so. I have bought some valves from pressure tek that are a much better and heavy duty valve....but I would never fear anything exploding.

Andy

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There was a guy on another bbs that used a low pressure ball valve, and it failed very fast. It looked like something that would be used on air tools or something. This same guy also took pictures of non recovering washers and called the City on them. So we have 2 strikes right there.

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I would say there's a very good chance an under rated ball valve could explode. Not like a hand grenade, but it could tear open enough to cause injury.

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Beth or anyone,

The only ball valve I have found are big and heavy any suggestions where to get one that want make me feel that I am holding a 5lb bag of sugar.

The problem is that in order to be rated for 3000+ psi, it has to be heavy...I've tried ligher ball valves, and they start leaking (and could possibly come apart in a very nasty way). The one I use is no where near 5 lbs...weighs a good bit less than my wand, so I really don't notice the extra weight.

I've heard the weight complaint before about ball valves, but just don't get it...We haul hose and buckets all day long, what's an extral pound?

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The problem is that in order to be rated for 3000+ psi, it has to be heavy...I've tried ligher ball valves, and they start leaking (and could possibly come apart in a very nasty way). The one I use is no where near 5 lbs...weighs a good bit less than my wand, so I really don't notice the extra weight.

I've heard the weight complaint before about ball valves, but just don't get it...We haul hose and buckets all day long, what's an extral pound?

For me the extra weight at the butt of the gun becomes tedious after awhile. I believe it is actually be the extra pull generated by the longer torque arm post trigger, but either way it makes it feel like I'm using 3/4in hose. I actually get a bit annoyed at my swivel at times and wish it was practical to hose directly into the gun.

I thought I liked my valve for switching between a gun and a surf cleaner until I took it off. On a long day I now actually prefer cutting off the pump. I have since put a 1/4" socket directly into the gun (had one 12" after) and hence this thread. I only had F sockets and bought a 1/4" nipple from HD.

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For me the extra weight at the butt of the gun becomes tedious after awhile. I believe it is actually be the extra pull generated by the longer torque arm post trigger, but either way it makes it feel like I'm using 3/4in hose. I actually get a bit annoyed at my swivel at times and wish it was practical to hose directly into the gun.

I thought I liked my valve for switching between a gun and a surf cleaner until I took it off. On a long day I now actually prefer cutting off the pump. I have since put a 1/4" socket directly into the gun (had one 12" after) and hence this thread. I only had F sockets and bought a 1/4" nipple from HD.

In my situation, I have to have a ball valve for the surfacer. One my steel eagle 24", there's no way to turn the surfacer off unless you cut off the washer or close the ball valve. I can't very well leave the surfacer spinning on the concrete for 30 seconds in one spot while I walk back to the trailer to cut it off. One the Big Guy, I have a trigger grip on it, but I keep that zip tied open, since I get tired of hold it open all day long. I just use the ball valve to turn it on and off.

If I'm not doing concrete, I keep the ball valve in the trailer. Since I do the DW last, I'll stick it on there when I'm prepping for the DW.

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If I'm not doing concrete, I keep the ball valve in the trailer. Since I do the DW last, I'll stick it on there when I'm prepping for the DW.

This is what I do as well. I only have the ball valve on when I'm using the surface cleaner. I do however have a few tricks I use for putting on and off the ball valve for cleaning the drive without stopping my machine.

I also don't use a swivel on my guns. I tried them and decided they got in my way more than they helped me. I prefer to simply spin the gun around when the hose gets twisted. I do however use a swivel on my surface cleaner.

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This is what I do as well. I only have the ball valve on when I'm using the surface cleaner. I do however have a few tricks I use for putting on and off the ball valve for cleaning the drive without stopping my machine.

I also don't use a swivel on my guns. I tried them and decided they got in my way more than they helped me. I prefer to simply spin the gun around when the hose gets twisted. I do however use a swivel on my surface cleaner.

Oh, yeah, you can get the hose off the gun without shutting the machine down...Take the tip out of the gun, pull the trigger, and pop the hose off. It may not work if you're running a really high gpm machine. You then make sure the ball valve is open, and plug the hose in, then shut the ball valve!

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Precisely. Also, don't forget pressing the trigger of the gun without a tip and reattaching the hose to the gun and then releasing the trigger. Works both ways!

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