RPetry

Trevor,
I would reconsider and at least test using a 2% bleach/soap solution. Nothing kills mold and mildew more effectively than bleach. If you constantly rinse the surrounding walls with low pressure water while you are applying and letting the mix dwell a short while, it should work fine. Test on a ceiling spot next to a wall first. Unlike percarbonate, bleach kills quickly, AFAIK, on contact, so little or no dwell time is needed.
Surfactants such as Dow's Tergitol NP-9 thicken any chemical mix and provide some "cling". Many PW distributors should carry the product or similar.
Use a clear waterbase wood stain, not an oil stain. Mildewcides in oil stains break down over time, and linseed oil, which is used in most oil stains, is a food source for mold and mildew.

1. BTN BFSII. Originally a Back to Nature product, sold to Sunnyside Corp. a few years ago.
2. PPG Duraprep 220
3. Eaco Chem Stripper Cream. Highly caustic, will strip flesh to the bone.

Ryan,
A year of weathering on PTP should be plenty of time. Unless the wood was full out shaded from the sun and/or protected from moisture.
I'm not familiar with Sikkens but if it is mostly oil based, you may want to try acetone. Take a rag, douse it with some acetone, and quickly try rubbing out a small "shiner". The stuff is extremely volatile and evaporates quickly.
A note of caution. Don't light a smoke when working with acetone.

Last year, it was a citric - oxalic acid prep comparison on ipe'. The results were inconclusive. This year, it is a stain appearance and longitivity comparison.
Finally got around to working on my own ipe' deck. Wood was lightly stripped (3 oz./gal. NaOH) and washed, followed by a citric acid brightening. Citric was allowed to dry on the wood but overnight rains probably rinsed it off anyway. Sanded lightly with a RO with 60 grit.
As Armstrong-Clark has gotten a lot of attention this year, decided to stain with their "rustic brown" color to test for the full deck. But kept a floor board open for other products.
Left to right in the picture. Armstrong-Clark rustic brown, WoodTux warm honey gold, Defy - Deck Stains for Hardwoods, cedar tone color (water based), Benjamin Moore Alkyd Transparent Hardwood Finish - natural 321 10 color, Ready Seal light brown color.
The picture was taken immediately after application. All stains except the areas of the Defy are still wet.
Thanks to Scott Paul for the Defy sample, Jake Clark for the Armstrong-Clark stain, and Benjamin Moore for their new hardwood stain sample. These were provided free of charge.
The Ready Seal and WoodTux were purchased by my company for customer jobs.

Charlie,
We just finished a cedar deck with A-C in Rustic Brown, our first time using the stain. Have not yet taken finished pics. Gotta' go to work in a few minutes, but a couple of answers.
What kind of coverage did you get?
On western red cedar, ~ 200 sq. ft. / gal.
Where to purchase it?
Directly from Armstrong-Clark in Calif. Call or order from their website.
Whats the viscosity of the oil?
Just a touch thicker than Ready Seal. A lot more pigment.

Rick,
Looks like redwood to me. Thats all I see out here in No. Calif. All sorts of redwood out here, old and new. Surprised to see it out your way, but my .02 is redwood, Rick. It will look fabulous when you get through with it!

Cripes, I own an ipe' deck! Why didn't I think of that?

Well, since you are so footloose and fancy free tonight, did I ever tell you the one about that wood stain manufacturer that ...
Ah, never mind. Someone else may read this....
Anyway, is there any possibility of permanently erasing my 5 point infraction of over a year ago? Geeze, Beth, its a blemish on an otherwise stellar record of service. Kind of think the Judge of Wood may look slant eyed the next time in court. Have mercy, I did try WT twice.

Paul,
Different business models. Many, if not most specializing in exterior wood, build long term relationships with their customers. By definition, that means maintenance. By gross sales each season, that means a skewed geometric business growth over time.
Most of us can make ipe' look like God's gift to man, day one. WT, RS, BM, Assie Oil, Penofin, Messmer's, Sikkens, F&P, Behr's, CWF, does not matter. What matters is value to the customer.
Attached are two pics of WT on unweathered, "unseasoned" ipe'. Six months of NJ weathering over the winter. No sun exposure to speak of. Job was ~ $ 2K out of his pocket. Not a stain fault, a wood prep fault.
Think the customer is happy? Think again.

Ken,
Looks like someone tried to sand just the butt joints to get off excess AnchorSeal.
Although, there are all those marks on the steps. Bad wood chisel work on plugs and spot sanding?

Neil stated,
True, if you are countersinking without plugging. But ipe' plugs on an ipe' deck look way better than exposed SS fasteners. Don't see how countersinking to 3/8" or so has any structural effect when using 5/4 stock or better. Trimheads seem best.If countersinking and plugging is normal in NC, I hope the builders are getting a ton of $. What a tedious, time consuming job.
Why would you want to "undo" a countersunk and plugged ipe' deck? A light sanding is normal for us when first prepping ipe', whether stripped or unfinished, plugged or not.

Ken,
We use 7" R.O.'s with 60 grit Klingspor paper, usually two of us so it goes pretty fast. Most times very light, it seems to go about as fast as a Makita and 3M pads.
Neil,
Have yet to try an Osbourn brush. Know McMaster Carr has something very similar and one of their distribution centers is about 6 miles away. Is it faster than 3M pads?
Do it for all hardwoods. Stripped a mahogany Aussie oil job today and will give it a quick sanding tomorrow if the weather stays dry.