Beth n Rod

This post is SPAM. If you want to dialog with other professionals, that is fine otherwise this sort of post will be removed in the future.
 
Beth

This post is SPAM. If you want to dialog with other professionals, that is fine otherwise this sort of post will be removed in the future.
 
Beth

Matthew,
Don't take it personally.
This is actually good advice considering the poster has been through much as have the rest of us.
 
You are here asking for advice and the one side is you may get some you didn't expect.
In trying to be helpful, certain questions lead to other questions which make us respond accordingly.
 
Being in business means thinking about things you woulnd't normally. Trust me in this....there are people out there who are good at trying to exploit new contractors.
They know you are hungry and haven't developed your client base or reputation.
 
The forums are here to help. Some may help in other ways. That's all.
 
Rod

Matthew,
Don't take it personally.
This is actually good advice considering the poster has been through much as have the rest of us.
 
You are here asking for advice and the one side is you may get some you didn't expect.
In trying to be helpful, certain questions lead to other questions which make us respond accordingly.
 
Being in business means thinking about things you woulnd't normally. Trust me in this....there are people out there who are good at trying to exploit new contractors.
They know you are hungry and haven't developed your client base or reputation.
 
The forums are here to help. Some may help in other ways. That's all.
 
Rod

Here's the thing, kid...You are on sites created for professional contractors to discuss matters related to building and maintaining a profitable business, while providing a quality, professional service to customers. You are on here asking about which consumer quality machine to buy, to help you run a "summer job". Are you paying taxes? Do you have a DBA or a business license? Do you have insurance? Or are you just under charging and over working and taking business away from people who work hard to run legal businesses?
 
Long story short...don't get butthurt when you get snapped at by real business owner.
 
 
Sorry guys (and girls) I've been fixing hack jobs today. Including a composite deck that got ripped up by a neighborhood kid. I'm angry at hacks today.

  Dwell time is critical in many situations and certain strippers are only good for removing likewise formulated products ie; stippers for oil based stains, acrylics, latex etc. Some strippers can do a lot, others need help by adding a booster or additive.   Since you have not listed what you are using to strip with, I can only suggest you look into more than one. We have had great success with HD-80 and boosting it with 633-ADD for most of our stripping purposes.   I cannot speak for others but our company does remove the fuzzing created by stripping. You may want to consider several options for this. We use Osborn brushes on Makita 7" grinders (variable speed) to deal with the fuzzing on spindles but also use 3m pads (black coarse stripper pads) used with the grinder and a back plate to get into areas under rails.   For the floor, you will have to consider either renting a buffing machine and buying a large brush for it or buying both for use on the floors. This will help getting rid of the fuzzies.   If you need to grind/sand the floor, look into a square buff sander. It is approx. 18"X30" and utilizes a combination of a pad for holding the sand paper and the sand paper itself. It comes in varying grits. We use 36 for most heavy sanding and finish off with 60 - 80 grit once the desired result has been acheived.   Sanding is a necessary step in order to get the best results and not have splotchy looking stain so your efforts are not in vain. You have a good idea of what to do so far and just need the right 'tools' for the jobs, and I meant that plurally because no two decks are going to be alike.   Having had to strip numerous coats off any one deck alone finding out as the stripper removed each layer, you never know exactly what you are getting in to. If you are going to test spot an area....don't do the floor. THAT is the easiest. Try under the rail cap where the sun never shines and it is always the most intact.   There lies the true test of your stripper.   Rod

The problem I have with workers comp was on the audits. We clean commercial buildings such as a few movie theaters.. Because of this I have to pay 31.4% of payroll. I hate it but chalk it up as the cost of doing business. Also god forbid if one of my guys get hurt, they'll be compensated accordingly.

Don't even get me started on workman's comp......
Just remember, owners CAN exclude themselves. That does help some.
 
Beth

Testing testing
Sent from my RM-860_nam_usa_100 using Tapatalk

Yup, you're over thinking it.
 
Not in any particular order:
 
http://www.pressuretek.com/
http://shop.pressurewasherky.us/main.sc
http://powerwashstore.com/

I used Naval Jelly on the rust stains and it did lighten the stain a lot. I only left it on for 3 minutes while I brushed it in. After I cleaned the entire deck with my 12% mix. I rinsed it down and did a pass with pressure. When I got done I could barely see them. I didn't even bother applying a second application to the stain.

Just to the affected areas.
Brush and rinse.
 
Rod

Where so backed up with work that I still need to do this. Being busy is never a good excuse to slack on the marketing end.

We were thinking about asking our customers if we could put a sign in their yard for a week and then pick it back up to advertise. Has anyone done this and how did it work out for you? I'm worried about spending money on the signs and them just go missing before I can get back to them.

I'm super excited about it. Thanks :-) I have thoroughly enjoyed writing the marketing book that I have just finished. With luck, it will be for sale at the event. I have to say I am truly blessed to be able to work with such an amazing group at Cleaner Times. My editors are wonderful, supportive, and give me the professional latitude I want when I feel I need it. I'm excited about the NEXT project they have asked me to work on!
 
John I think CETA/ISSA is after PWNA. Pairing up with ISSA, Ceta expects about 16k attendees. CETA and  PWNA are smaller events by themselves but ISSA is HUGE. So......my one class is expected to pull 125+ people.
 
I'll  have fun this summer creating my seminars and the presentation materials for them.
 
Beth

Congrats Beth. You have always been a respected Individual and a valuable commodity to this Industry. I remember it well when you spoke in Dallas at the PWNA Convention around 2004 about marketing during that session when they were judging who had the best presentation contest....... Which of course you won:) You pretty much swept the awards that year.
You know that CETA/Issa event might be right before or after the PWNA Convention in Orlando... Very cool. Maybe I'll treck it out there and catch both events again like I did in 2012.

If the lattice is that thin, it would actually be cheaper to just replace it.
Seriously.
Lattice runs about $35-$40 for a 4x8 sheet.
Stripping it would cost several times that. Plus, you face the potential that it will just come apart anyway.
More aggravation and the customers perception isn't as good if they think you should have thought of that in
the first place.
Once you replace it, staining it will look better and last longer and the customer will consider you more in touch with
your work.
 
Back to you~
 
Rod

That was a helpful tip.
 
Rod

Are they going with another solid color or are they going with something semi transparent?
 
If there are any cracks in the wood that contain solid stain, you will not be able to get it out and it will show through anything less
than a solid color stain.
 
Rod

I don't know Thad. Awesome takes up a lot of room.
 
The last one in PA. was great and we found it worth the time not only in seminars and educational sessions but also in the showcasing of products by vendors.
It didn't hurt either that we won a pressure washer. (sweet!) All that aside...
 
We ended up buying a window cleaning machine from one of the vendors through a distributor and have already put it to use and making money. It works great!
 
Anyone considering attending would find it worth their while. Thad doesn't skimp on the details. Great food too!
 
Check it out!
 
Rod

The 2013 Pressure Washing Convention was the biggest pressure washing event of the year but we’re not stopping there! 

This year we are doing a joint event with the WCRA and it is HUGE. We have reserved over 30,000 square feet of trade show, ballroom, and classroom space at the amazing Gaylord Opryland Resort and Convention Center and we are going to fill every inch with awesome. 


http://pressurewashingconvention.com

If that is the way you want to go then be prepared for some situations that it will not handle.
I will give credit to 'one story' washing with low pressure but in my neck of the woods, these are just one side of the house.
The others are typically 2 - 3-1/2 stories and I guarantee you, that set-up will NOT reach those places.
I know I am going to start an argument here but you asked for advice on doing something which looks great but doesn't take into account any other
factors.
I'd like to see that set-up work in any 10-15 mph winds that can be found pushing through between 2 houses. Having been frustrated trying to get soap on the siding before it is blown around the corner, I can tell you...this set-up will leave you unable to complete the job.
-Get an m-5 jet. It has an adjustable nozzle which allows a fan pattern for up close use and a stream pattern for long distance application.
you will need a separate container for your chems close by. Sorry, but this is work and doing it right requires certain compromises on the operators part.
-Buy an extension lance (8'-10'). This helps with reach and access to high places over roof extensions and valleys between dormers and gables.
-Get an extension pole. Purdy sells one that extends 18' with quick click features for fast extension and reduction.
-Pick up a couple of wash type brushes. You will need them for hard to reach and stubborn stains bleach alone will not get. These are examples. Where you get them is up to you.
ie. Carbon staining and clay staining, windy days and uneven terrain a ladder will not be safe on.
-Look into the chemistry involved in cleaning the most common forms of contaminants found on siding, brick, stucco etc.
Bleach and simple cherry are not the magic bullet. Trust me, there is more to it than this and part of it is a liability for bleach left on the surface.
Some stains like aluminum oxidation found commonly below capped windows and more cannot be removed by bleach or most soaps. You will need a mild acid.
Clay stains also need an acid.
In the video, (Sorry Micheal) there is no where near enough rinsing going on and I can guarantee the mold will regrow within 6 months due to insufficient
rinsing. You will need a rinse aid and hot water (120* max on vinyl).
That temp alone will make holding onto a ball valve for extended periods very uncomfortable.
Meanwhile, keep in mind, this video is not a typical example of a house. It is one side, one story and quite easy. I wish they were all like this but they are not.
Next time you are driving through a neighborhood, take some time to seriously consider each house you see, look at the construction design, the landscape, terrain, the roof pitch, the extensions such as porches, dormers, gables and eaves, trees and other plantings which can inhibit access.
Consider how you would have to access each of these and keep in mind working from the ground and that you must keep 'line of sight' in mind.
You are moving into a new segment of this industry and you are obviously supporting a family and wanting to be as effective as possible to make money.
Invest in the proper tools, equipment and soaps and you will do well.
Don't take one videos word that this is the be-all-end-all solution. It demonstrates well what is possible with that set up but in our experience, it doesn't fill the needs we face on the home styles found in our area.
I hope this post helps you to make the decision that is right for you. If what is in the video is sufficient for your area's home styles and you don't have a great deal of tall homes, clay staining, carbon staining, clay staining (found at base and foundations)...get the setup as shown.
Ball valve, low pressure injector (attached to the pumps outlet) and whatever bleach + simple cherry.
Otherwise, look into the other tools.
Rod!~

A couple of years ago I got a message from a FM in Michigan.  He wanted to know how to contact Dave. He wanted Dave to add his jurisdiction to Dave's service area.  That is an indication of the high regard others had of
Dave.

The big 4-0 was this past September.   I spent the morning of my 40th birthday in the Emergency Room with a kidney stone.      That went away after some convincing, and all is well.    My boys are 14 and 9 now........which is hard to believe.
 
I stopped pressure washing in 2005 and switched to the HVAC business.   I am in sales of residential HVAC and doing very well.   For a couple of years I was a technician as well, but I enjoy sales more.
 
Jim, I recognize your photo.......I hope all is well with you.

Doing it for nothing is something I won't do.
You are performing on someone else's property and if you aren't charging for it and it is not disclosed in a proposal, bid or estimate, you are liable for any and all damages that result.
 
Hourly rates are for employee's and lawyers. Even plumbers and electricians don't give hourly anymore. They charge by the service.
We don't give out an 'hourly' rate either. Due to the varying factors many projects will have, there is no way to really put an hourly rate on it considering there is so much more that go into costs.
 
Rod