Beth n Rod

Dave O. was one of the best people this industry  has ever seen.
 
Beth

Phosphoric acid is what is in Naval Jelly that attacks rust.
 
Problem is, it could also cause a problem with the composite in removing the stains at high concentrations.
 
Let the customer know this is possible and have them sign off on it.
If YOU void the warranty by doing this, YOU are liable for replacement.
 
Another possibility, replace the peices affected if the product isn't too old.
 
Rod

Doing it for nothing is something I won't do.
You are performing on someone else's property and if you aren't charging for it and it is not disclosed in a proposal, bid or estimate, you are liable for any and all damages that result.
 
Hourly rates are for employee's and lawyers. Even plumbers and electricians don't give hourly anymore. They charge by the service.
We don't give out an 'hourly' rate either. Due to the varying factors many projects will have, there is no way to really put an hourly rate on it considering there is so much more that go into costs.
 
Rod

Doing it for nothing is something I won't do.
You are performing on someone else's property and if you aren't charging for it and it is not disclosed in a proposal, bid or estimate, you are liable for any and all damages that result.
 
Hourly rates are for employee's and lawyers. Even plumbers and electricians don't give hourly anymore. They charge by the service.
We don't give out an 'hourly' rate either. Due to the varying factors many projects will have, there is no way to really put an hourly rate on it considering there is so much more that go into costs.
 
Rod

Yes it sure has Rick. The money many of us made from the knowledge we learned here, has kept guys like me gainfully employed in the Powerwashing industry.

Good thread John.
 
Kudos to Beth & Rod for starting The Grime Scene.  Back in those days, there were few internet resources focused on pressure washing, especially information on exterior wood care.  This site has educated and helped an entire generation of contractors.

If Beth and Rod have impacted your busines in a positive way then post it here.
In my case I believe I was Powerwashing a couple of yrs longer then Beth/Rod but I was not a fan to use chemicals(soaps). My customers never complained but they also didn't know any better. Beth kept after me in around 2000 to try HD-80 and use a brightener afterwords. I thought she was nuts.
Low and behold to this day the most fascinating thing I ever seen short of cleaning Babe Ruth's monument(resting place) was watching the brightener turn the stripped wood to magic while it brightened right before my eyes. You wont get much wood to clean any nicer then this.
To Beth/ Rod I am forever great full to you both for allowing me to come to TGS from the very beginning and to just soak up all the info on this very professional site.
I love you both and you two will always hold a piece in my heart.....always:)
So who"s next? Bear your soul and Tell us a compelling story on now this very professional couple of Beth/Rod have helped your business over the years.

Where still doing wood restoration type work and I always think back when you told me to use HD-80 on wood along with a brightener and how nice it comes out. You were right on and I'm forever grateful for that:)

You don't downstream stripper. It wouldn't be near strong enough and you definitely don't want sodium hydroxide (in strengths required to strip a deck) flying all over the place. You can however downstream the brightener/neutralizer. Usually stripper is applied with a pump up or 12 volt pump.

Ok, I've taken your advice and rigged me up a 2 wheeler to hold my chemicals and hoses. I'll try it out Monday. If it all works, I'll attempt to post a picture. Thanks.

I use oxalic acid for my brightener.

 
 
Thanks Ted!!
 
I was very lucky to have a calm day being around the pool! 

When we first started out, I used to just hand roll all my hoses.
But then again, I used to carry them from the front to the rear and back of each house/townhouse configuration we did.
 
KILLED my back!
 
Never got into the electric reels. Bought my first one in 2000, 200' Rapid Reel and it is still in service to this day.
In 2004, bought a 3 stack by hosetract and it is still in use as well.
 
When it comes to this topic, I think it is going to come down to: How much hose do you use on a regular basis?
50' ? hand roll...easy-hand roll!
100'? hand roll or reel?
200'?   Yeah, you bet a reel!
 
Rod

Have u ever tried an injector? They r amazing and u can get a long range nozzle to reach the high parts. Just my two cents.

Another tip to help you become smarter about your insurance.
 
Subcontractor Liability Tip.pdf

Thank you for that.
 
Insurance is not an easy navigation and like taxes is not easily understood.
 
Rod

Thank you everyone!
 
Also, thank you Jake!  Your advice and professionalism is always top notch.  Plus, I landed a 3k deck restoration job because a customer was referred to us by you.  I really appreciate that.  The scary thing is, the customer almost changed their mind and wanted to put Restore on instead for a while.  Luckily I was able to educate them.
 
Have a great start to the year everyone.

Jim's points are exactly what anyone should be considering.
 
Wood at 50* or lower begins to tighten up as a response to the temperatures and won't absorb well.
Also, oils are like bacon grease, they begin to congeal at that temp and don't penetrate.
 
Combining these two factors makes it a difficult assessment for when to start.
Getting temps during the day is fine but remember overnight temps can literally squeeze out the sealer that hasn't dried/cured by then.
This leads to tacky finishes which will never set right and leads to a premature failing of the product.
 
Acrylics have a little better performance ability but again need to have consistent temps above their application range to ensure proper curing.
Some can be applied as low as 40* but keep in mind the substrate. If it is a hardwood. Forget it. Wait for warmer temps.
 
I acknowledge Jim's predicament over the years and that he has had it very difficult where temps AND rain have been concerned.  He and other in the northeast corridor have been hit with some unfortunate weather which has impacted their businesses and complicated their ability to do quality work without having to resort to alternate measures to get the job done.
 
Here's to hoping all have a decent weather year.
 
Rod

Here is my 10 day forecast.
 
Today Mar 19 48°F
31°F
PM Rain
Chance of rain: 90% Wind: SSE at 20 mphDetails Thu Mar 20 34°
24°
Snow Shower / Wind
Chance of snow: 50% Wind: WSW at 26 mph Snowfall <1 inDetails Fri Mar 21 40°
33°
Partly Cloudy
Chance of rain: 10% Wind: WSW at 12 mphDetails Sat Mar 22 38°
21°
Snow Shower
Chance of snow: 60% Wind: WSW at 15 mphDetails Sun Mar 23 26°
13°
Few Snow Showers
Chance of snow: 30% Wind: NW at 14 mphDetails Mon Mar 24 25°
19°
Cloudy
Chance of precip: 0% Wind: WNW at 14 mphDetails Tue Mar 25 33°
19°
Few Snow Showers
Chance of snow: 30% Wind: SW at 11 mphDetails Wed Mar 26 27°
15°
Scattered Snow Showers
Chance of snow: 30% Wind: WNW at 13 mphDetails Thu Mar 27 39°
29°
Partly Cloudy
Chance of precip: 10% Wind: SW at 11 mphDetails Fri Mar 28 46°
36°
Scattered Showers
 
 
 
 
 
I am ready to move. Right now. RIGHT NOW!

Jim's points are exactly what anyone should be considering.
 
Wood at 50* or lower begins to tighten up as a response to the temperatures and won't absorb well.
Also, oils are like bacon grease, they begin to congeal at that temp and don't penetrate.
 
Combining these two factors makes it a difficult assessment for when to start.
Getting temps during the day is fine but remember overnight temps can literally squeeze out the sealer that hasn't dried/cured by then.
This leads to tacky finishes which will never set right and leads to a premature failing of the product.
 
Acrylics have a little better performance ability but again need to have consistent temps above their application range to ensure proper curing.
Some can be applied as low as 40* but keep in mind the substrate. If it is a hardwood. Forget it. Wait for warmer temps.
 
I acknowledge Jim's predicament over the years and that he has had it very difficult where temps AND rain have been concerned.  He and other in the northeast corridor have been hit with some unfortunate weather which has impacted their businesses and complicated their ability to do quality work without having to resort to alternate measures to get the job done.
 
Here's to hoping all have a decent weather year.
 
Rod

I have used espec's limonene in house washing, but the problem I have is the instructions only pertain to how to mix it up to make 55 gallons. Thats it. There are no instructions on ratios to use or what it is designed specifically to work on. Plus, no msds. All that fancy lingo in the ad and blamo disappointo.
If you are looking for Limonene to work on mildew or algae, it doesnt. If you are looking for it to clean something, there is nothing stating what it is supposed to clean. Its advertised for house washing, but when I wash a house, it is to remove mildew/algae or oxidation. There are 2 different methods involved in the removal of each. Alone, limonene has not been effective on either. As we all know, dirt falls off the siding just from hot water alone. Mildew/algae need a strong oxidizer to kill it in order to remove it easily, otherwise, you have to beat it off with high pressure (2500psi+) Oxidation is removed well under a 2 step acid/alkaline process and rinsed with hot water under moderate pressure (600-900 psi)
After trying Limonene at a number of concentrations, it now sits on a shelf waiting for a qualified use as a degreaser.
Rod~

Stoked to pound the pavement this year.  Just need this freakin' weather to break!

OMG you are SERIOUS!
 
Well, life goes on.
 
Beth

I have used espec's limonene in house washing, but the problem I have is the instructions only pertain to how to mix it up to make 55 gallons. Thats it. There are no instructions on ratios to use or what it is designed specifically to work on. Plus, no msds. All that fancy lingo in the ad and blamo disappointo.
If you are looking for Limonene to work on mildew or algae, it doesnt. If you are looking for it to clean something, there is nothing stating what it is supposed to clean. Its advertised for house washing, but when I wash a house, it is to remove mildew/algae or oxidation. There are 2 different methods involved in the removal of each. Alone, limonene has not been effective on either. As we all know, dirt falls off the siding just from hot water alone. Mildew/algae need a strong oxidizer to kill it in order to remove it easily, otherwise, you have to beat it off with high pressure (2500psi+) Oxidation is removed well under a 2 step acid/alkaline process and rinsed with hot water under moderate pressure (600-900 psi)
After trying Limonene at a number of concentrations, it now sits on a shelf waiting for a qualified use as a degreaser.
Rod~

Shane always rocks.
 
Beth