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a good hot water skid

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After 3 1/2 yrs I'm FINALLY stepping up. I'm purchasing a diesel F250 Saturday and i'm looking for a quality hot water skid. I want it to be diesel fired stainless, belt drive and about 4000 psi and 5 gpm. Anybody got any good websites?

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I am currently looking at a M-T-M (mighty M). It has a 25.hp Kohler, 5.6 gpm, 3600psi General, w/2500 watt generator. I got them down to $5035.00 for it. Water cannon (http://www.hotsuperskid.com/default.aspx ) has a decent looking skid for $4199.00 as well.

I also saw this listed on ebay. The guy originally had a buy it now of $3000.00 but that is gone now that the bidding started. You might contact him and offer some money to end it?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4437134178&ss

PageName=STRK:MEWA:IT

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After 3 1/2 yrs I'm FINALLY stepping up. I'm purchasing a diesel F250 Saturday and i'm looking for a quality hot water skid. I want it to be diesel fired stainless, belt drive and about 4000 psi and 5 gpm. Anybody got any good websites?

Pressure-Pro also makes a heck of a nice 8gpm machine for not a lot more than the price of the 5.6gpm machine.

You want the entire machine to be stainless? If so, that's gonna be expensive!

Don Phelps sells the PressurePro line. See what kind of price he can work up for you.

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I second what Mike said. Go with an 8 gpm. - It's worth it!

Meant to put this in my original post...

The only reasons I wouldn't go with an 8gpm machine is if you can't run off a tank for some reason, or if your water supply at a good portion of your jobs is extremely low. Nothing more aggrivating than having to stop and wait for the tank to fill up a bit so you can continue washing. The last reason I can think of is if you have serious drainage problems at a lot of your jobs...

Other than those three reasons, I can't think of any reason not to go with a higher gpm machine...Yes, it costs more, but not a huge amount more, and the increased efficiency will more than make up the difference in the cost of the machine.

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Meant to put this in my original post...

The only reasons I wouldn't go with an 8gpm machine is if you can't run off a tank for some reason, or if your water supply at a good portion of your jobs is extremely low. Nothing more aggrivating than having to stop and wait for the tank to fill up a bit so you can continue washing. The last reason I can think of is if you have serious drainage problems at a lot of your jobs...

Other than those three reasons, I can't think of any reason not to go with a higher gpm machine...Yes, it costs more, but not a huge amount more, and the increased efficiency will more than make up the difference in the cost of the machine.

On jobs where the water supply is low, all you have to do is go down to a smaller tip size and that will cut you flow down.

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On jobs where the water supply is low, all you have to do is go down to a smaller tip size and that will cut you flow down.

__________________

Tom

Work smarter not harder...

That would totally defeat the purpose of a 8gpm machine!

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smaller tips= higher psi, not lower gpm. Lower gpm by throttling the machine down

Granted you can see a small increase in gpm when the psi is lowered but not much, there is only so much water a positive displacement pump can physically move.

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On jobs where the water supply is low, all you have to do is go down to a smaller tip size and that will cut you flow down.

Ummm....no, it won't. The flow stays the same, unless you throttle down the motor. Throttling down the motor isn't a good idea. In fact, many newer pressure washers don't even have a throttle control. Mine doesn't.

At full rpms, the pump puts out whatever volume of water it is designed to put out. Making the nozzle smaller won't change that.

You COULD turn down the unloader, if you have a pressure type unloader.

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smaller tips= higher psi, not lower gpm. Lower gpm by throttling the machine down

Granted you can see a small increase in gpm when the psi is lowered but not much, there is only so much water a positive displacement pump can physically move.

How is the volume going to change simply by lowering the psi (with a tip)? The pump puts out what it puts out, assuming rpms stay the same.

My understanding is that lowering the throttle speed on the motor isn't good for the motor. They're air cooled, and designed to run full throttle. Better to turn down the unloader, if you're so equipped.

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My understanding is: If you make your tip smaller the psi will increase. If your unloader is set correctly, this increase if pressure will make the unloader bypass some water. The pump is still pumping "X" amount, but only "W" is coming out the tip(s). Thus you are really using less water and pumping the same.

But I agree, defeats the purpose of getting an 8gpm machine

Doug

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What I do with my Powerwasher to lower the GPM since its 11 gpm is to lower the throttle spead but My Powerwasher is differnet then most since it has its own radiator. When there is no hook up for water when we do commercial and there is only one guy cleaning such as myself or my worker this is when we lower the throttle cause even though I can hold 700gal of water in my truck you can go thru it extremely fast at 11gpm. My engine is similiar to a car engine and if you don't have to run it full tilt then there's no hurting it by lowering the throttle.

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My understanding is: If you make your tip smaller the psi will increase. If your unloader is set correctly, this increase if pressure will make the unloader bypass some water. The pump is still pumping "X" amount, but only "W" is coming out the tip(s). Thus you are really using less water and pumping the same.

But I agree, defeats the purpose of getting an 8gpm machine

Doug

I'm not sure with a pressure unloader, but with a flow unloader, it's either in bypass or it isn't in bypass.

Depending on how much smaller a tip you're trying to use, if the unloader isn't set correctly, you run the risk of overloading your pump, fittings, and hoses! Something is going to give way.

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My understanding is: If you make your tip smaller the psi will increase. If your unloader is set correctly, this increase if pressure will make the unloader bypass some water. The pump is still pumping "X" amount, but only "W" is coming out the tip(s). Thus you are really using less water and pumping the same.

But I agree, defeats the purpose of getting an 8gpm machine

Doug

This is true and it is NOT good for the unloader to bypass just a lil, it wears away at the lil ball in there and soon you won't be getting full pressure anytime.

I have my bypass plumbed returning to my tank and you can see when it bypasses a lil. If we think a pump is getting down on pressure first check the pressure and that is good check the bypass and you can tell real fast if a unloader is junk.

I don't think throtling the motor back would hurt it but I don't know that, but that is what we some.

Lets ay you have a 7 gpm pump and you get a job that can't quit keep up with water take and throtle the motor back a lil and put 6 gpm nozzel in just make sure that it is not bypassing any and you will save 1 gpm. Done and do it!! I have three 7gpm pumps on my one trailer =21 gpm trust me we try the well out!! I carry a stream pump along just in case...

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Hydrotek

You won't regret it.

Beth

I'll second that. I have had a couple of different brand skids and bought a new Hydrotek back in the summer. To me it is the Cadillac of PWs. Its got the looks and the performance to back it up. I just bought a used one the other day that is 15 years old and it still runs like a new one.

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An 8 gpm machine with a regulating unloader designed for 2 gun operation DOES decrease flow out the gun by reducing nozzle size. The unloader is made to run in partial bypass...so...if you set the unloader for 3,000 psi operating pressure, with a #9 nozzle, all 8 gpm's are coming through. Use a #4.5, and you have 4 gpm @ 3,000 psi at the gun. A hot water machine should never be "throttled back" because:

A) As was mentioned, the engine needs the air flow for cooling.

B) The engine's charging system won't make enough juice to keep the battery up on a 12 volt burner system.

C) With a 120 volt system, the generator requires proper rpm's to make 110 - 126 volts at 58 - 62 Hz.

So...with a regulating unloader and a thermostat, you can vary the flow at full pressure with a tip change.

PS...My vote is for Hydro Tek, too.

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For less than twice the amount that Larry B mentioned for a Mighty M, a complete rig in an enclosed trailer is for sale on Ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7587964303&indexURL=0&photoDisplayType=2#ebayphotohosting

or item 7587964303 if that you have trouble with the link.

FYI, it is my rig.

Doug

You getting out, Doug, or just upgrading?

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