James

Tim , I take care of a lot of furniture . Teak , cedar , pt, redwood, something that begins with a J. All furniture that ends up with people like us has gotten out of control and sticky . Over application of product is the biggest issue. So knowing what you put on and how to care for the finish is the biggest issue with outdoor furniture and when to start over again.
Last year I did about 20 pieces of teak at the end of the year as a trial for he next 20 pieces in spring ( I think more). The tables could not be extended and the chairs couldn't be sat on when the temps hit 90. What a freaking mess but they new it . It went beyond there painter, local hardware store , paint store, handy man, advice from the product they put on,. The estate manager went to a dinner at one of my clients and ate / sat on the furniture I have cared for the last ten years. What a great new client I have and estate to work on . All because of something that couldn't be sat on ! Who wood of thunk ?
With furniture less is best....
What ever is used don't over apply . Wipe off anything that doesn't sink in in 30 minutes . Don't allow much on the undersides at all . Just enhance the wood. With furniture the first finish and when to do the second finish is the trickiest . You cannot treat outside furniture like inside furniture.

One issue with cypress it has naturals oils in. So on new wood you won't get much penetration of product . You might have to try many to get a handle on what works or sell natural. It's the most fragrant wood to work on . I was restoring a cedar house . Once I got going on it I found the addition was cedar and the original was cypress. The smell was awesome. The cypress section was over 30 years old and still only took 1 gallon per 200 sqft of ready seal.

What site and what woody ?

You need to immerse yourself in the service and get educated . Get trained by a manufacturer of epoxy coatings . It's all about concrete prep , moisture , and the application of the coat. Get trained by the manufacturer and get their support . Become a certified applicator of a product ?

Start going to the gym today and work out , wash the truck and start working on those machines. There is enough fat pressure cleaners and softbellywashers out there. Start lissening to motivation tapes to get going. Go after your old customers and customers who need wood maintenance.
If your in great shape forget what I said.

Start going to the gym today and work out , wash the truck and start working on those machines. There is enough fat pressure cleaners and softbellywashers out there. Start lissening to motivation tapes to get going. Go after your old customers and customers who need wood maintenance.
If your in great shape forget what I said.

Holy crap ! Is the tuff muddier for old fat Power Washers ?

I'm sure greg has a great product. But, I've been doing just fine for years getting rid of rust and other stains with other products and the same products. It's weird seeing all the hype about getting rid of rust !

I HAVE BEEN DOING TESTING FOR YEARS AT THE LOWER NEW ENGLAND INSTITUTE OF PRESSUREVATION OR PRESERVATION.  Ready Seal , Bakers, TWP, ABR have always came out above Armstrong Clark. 
 
I will give detailed information which i have in the past concerning why with each wood in the coming weeks.

I love Lou Reed and thats the reason i bought tickets to see him i think in the 70's? Absolute worst concert ever but it was fun throwing bottles at the stage . He had  100 tv's with static in the back ground  and came out playing the sax's ( brutally terrible). I saw him earlier and he  was great . Was at CBGB's  many times  ............................  

Just seems a bit un ethical to me?

I cleaned one last year part of the law suit . 3 or 4 different people had been there trying to get it cleaned?. Nobody could match my test spot. Turn into a roof ,house wash and a huge deck cleaning and an annual composite clean.

Not all of the prior stain was remove during stripping . When that happens the neutralizing process doesn't work in the ares which are dark . Why , because there is still finish there.

On new cedar less than 6 months old i would not use a pre-carb cleaner and do not. It raises the grain and scrubbing it will raise the grain more. 6 month old cedar will not take 2 coats of Ready Seal . It will take one coat. The wood has to be a year old before it can take two. On new cedar like yours a bleach solution works much better to kill the mildew and just a rinse with a garden hose as not to affect the surface of the wood because removing this surface will allow less oil to penetrate.
Fixing your problem- Ready Seal doesn't get sticky but you over applied the product . After a couple of rain storms the oil on top should wash away or you can wipe it down with mineral spirits.
Note- you didn't read any of my post for cedar! lol

I think the point we are missing here is removing the finish. Sometimes we are doing multi- applications of a strong Alki. Deciding when to stop the alki action is another matter. Has the Finish been removed? Do we need to to do it again? Do we want to stop the action of the Alki? Do we already know we have to sand? Is there allot of organic Stains, Rust stains ect..? Is there a need to Bleach the wood after stripping?
Stopping the action of the Stripper and Removing Tannin Stains and Brightening the wood are different actions although many or most times a simple neutralization works after a clean or mild strip of the wood.I do know the less moisture that is in the wood the better the Acid works for removing Tannins and Stains.
When using OxAcid a problem happens when it doesn't totally dissolve and it leaves a Salty looking resydue on your woodfriendmembers deck. Or Rod has been on your DEck working out to the Oldy's
If I keep on writing do you think I'll give Kev a Headache because I have one ? LOL

Blackendecks is a special Cajun RecSoooHoPee for mildewphication. - It means the product sucks and does not live up to any meaningful standard. And the Gobbledygook that is given too you is just that Gobbledygook!! For some unknown reason the product you are refering too breaks down at the surface and absorbs water soon after it cures. Most products don't absorb any water into its self. Water usually evaporates and doesn't penetrate a product. At least in the first year anywho! When a product breaks down and absorbs moisture Mr Mold Spore is right there to start the Cajun Blackendeck process. Even though mildewsuicides are present they start mulitipling into BLACKENDECK !!
When you have a development like I do with many houses and you see a product change over time that you use. And you are able to compare and evaluate it with other products and watch them evolve over time. Well Dan, I have the same problem with the same product. The dreaded" Cajun Deck Syndrome". I had one garage door turn black in 4 months. There was a gutter problem on this house but I have other houses with the same gutter problems and no CDS ( different products) only where this product is not other products. I also have a few decks with CDS . Gee is it the product? This product attracts Mr Mold Spore
and makes it invasive. Causing the Dreaded BLACKENDECK or CDS for short witch is Cajun Deck Syndrome.
What is the product that causes Cajun Deck Syndrome that comes with Gobbledygook ? If you guess you can have my supply of product!

No need to re- clean , wait till it's dry. What did you strip off if you don't mind me asking ( it troubles me that EFC-38 is pawned off as a weak stripper)? If it's raining, now is a good time to make sure all of the wood is absorbing the water. If it is Ready Seal will work.

This is perhaps the most pointless thread I've contributed too. Please keep it going !!