bfenne 14 Report post Posted December 14, 2004 Hello All, Just curious what everyone does to protect things from overspray and run off from the various chemicals useded on various jobs. ie..shrubs, plants, siding, decks. Thanks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Brad 14 Report post Posted December 14, 2004 Wet,Wet,Rewet any areas that you do not want your chems or bleach on,Wet down schrubs,decks and anything that your concerned about, before, during and after.And I always have the customer move their car out of the work area. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 bfenne 14 Report post Posted December 14, 2004 Does anyone use a tarp / plastic? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 squirtgun 122 Report post Posted December 14, 2004 You'll find that when the weather is hot covering plants will cause them to die faster than if you pre-wet and rinse when you complete the job.However,I would advise everyone to cover up palms,then do not handle chlorine well in any artio.(They will brown almost instantly.) Pre-wetting works on most surfaces as a good preventative measure to dilute any chemicals that drift where they aren't wanted. Masking for deck staining would entail taping plastic to siding,covering shrubs etc.(do not leave plants covered any longer than required) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 PressurePros 248 Report post Posted December 14, 2004 I use very thin mill plastic over flowers if I have to go heavy on chlorine. I have learned to tone down my chemicals a bit because plastic is a real pain when its windy, especially the thin stuff. If its very hot, (above 90 and sunny) I don't care how much you wet down, foliage surfaces will dry out and thats when they are susceptible. Most guys have said they never had a problem with browning plants. I think the customers just never complained to them about it. Besides, its no big deal. I did my house as a tester last year and didn't even wet anything first. Two days later my house looked like it was transplanted from June back to the middle of January. A month later everything came back more vibrant than ever. Though I have not done this to any of my customers (I check) I still have a disclaimer in my proposal/contract. I also wet and rewet any cars within 100 feet if I'm using an X-Jet full bore. Also watch your caustics around sealed decks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Chappy 138 Report post Posted December 14, 2004 When I do roofs I put tarps down over everything if there is no gutter above. this house had gutters except the front and garage side. used 3 12x30 tarps and 6 8x10. when on a roof, i use 60-70% chlorine mix, no rinse off. So that means you cant rinse plants that you hit. In front of the Porte cochere were some large bushes. I had them covered completely, but when I climed down the ladder, the wind had blown the tarp half off. I ran for the hose and soaked the plants, but too little, too late, most of the leaves are gone after a couple days! fortunately theyll grow back. The lady didnt complain. I guess she figured she had nickel and dimed me so much already, she had better not complain about the plants. another thing I noticed is some plants lost leaves that were covered. maybe had some residual chlorine left on the tarps. will rinse them better next time. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Mike 64 Report post Posted December 14, 2004 Use Caution Use Caution Use Caution. Wetting flowers and trees help, but bleach reaks havoc on cars and decks, no matter if they are wet or dry. Try to limit your overspray as much as possible by spraying the edges first, slowly, then you can go to town on the rest of it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Beth n Rod 1,279 Report post Posted December 14, 2004 We use tarps and plastic when sealing wood, yes. We have found water alone is not sufficient. In washing scenarios, water (dilution ) is your friend. Also shielding can help. Beth Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 bfenne 14 Report post Posted December 15, 2004 Could you please give a written process for doing this. Sure I could just throw tarps down but I am sure that the pro's here have found what works best for securing tarps to siding shrubs etc,etc.. If you don't mind sharing please do. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Beth n Rod 1,279 Report post Posted December 15, 2004 For washing or sealing wood? The processes are not identical. Which one are you interested in? Beth Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 CCPC 26 Report post Posted December 15, 2004 With overspray the most important area, in my view, is using caution with cars and windows. It's very easy for just a small breeze to catch your house wash mix and sling against the niegbors house. I've actually went as far as to knock on the neigbors door and ask them if I could rinse there windows or car if I have any suspcion that they caght some spray drift. As we all know, it only takes a couple of minutes of drying to etch glass. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 bfenne 14 Report post Posted December 15, 2004 For washing or sealing wood? The processes are not identical. Which one are you interested in? Beth Well being new, I would have to say both methods. What is this glass etching thing that can happen also? Thanks again. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 RyanH 14 Report post Posted December 15, 2004 I etched the glass on my truck windows when some of my TSP mix got hijaaked by the wind. After I saw the results, I threw the remainder away and went with something else. Fortunately none of it messed with the customers' windows since I constantly rinse glass to prevent this. Essentially, etching is what happens when certain chemicals react with the silicone in the glass and change the composition by making it appear to have permanent, opaque streaks. I think it's possible to polish it out, but imagine the effort and time to do something that can be so easily prevented. "Strategic" rinsing can also prevent the need to cover or protect in some cases. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 staudend 14 Report post Posted December 15, 2004 When I seal a deck, I use light wal'mart plastic and Sam's masking tape, it's only about 10-20 bucks a deck. I seal off the bottom around the siding with masking tape and 3 foot high roll so none gets through, then tack 10 x 10's up above that, then go tack 10 x 10's below the deck as well if siding is there as well as 10 feet on the sides, then put tarps on any concrete below. It takes a while, but I explain to the customer that this is how many companies cut corners when spraying, jeapordizing windows and siding. Anybody who's done decks know of the "Cloud of Doom". For x-jetting houses I just pre-wet with plenty of water and rinse with plenty as well afterwards. Unfortunately it has been 15 degrees here in MO the last couple of mornings and below freezing several times, and in the absence of flatwork, my season has been done for over a month. Nick Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 PressurePros 248 Report post Posted December 15, 2004 Glass Etching is a nightmare you do NOT want to experience. Using e-specs housewash I mixed it a tad too hot. It was a very sunny day with a nice breeze. Of course, the residence I was doing had just enough non windowed wall to keep it from being called a green house. I thoroughly wet all the windows before applying chem. The problem was I moved to quickly along. I decided to coat the entire side of the house with chem... Usually fine using a milder soap. My fault for not being cautious with a new chemical. By the time I got back to rinse the windows, maybe eight minutes, the windows were dried. No amount of rinsing at that point did much to help. I had to get on a ladder and polish each and every window with compound. (Ironically e-spec sell this too, imagine that) I think my helper made more per hour that day than I did. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 bfenne 14 Report post Posted December 16, 2004 Ken, I would be willing to help you with any type of job you get. It is all new to me so it would all be part of the learning curve. Actually it would be nice to actually to get some hands on to see if I even like it before I shell out the money. Let me know. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 PressurePros 248 Report post Posted December 16, 2004 Ken,I would be willing to help you with any type of job you get. It is all new to me so it would all be part of the learning curve. Actually it would be nice to actually to get some hands on to see if I even like it before I shell out the money. Let me know. Sure, if you'd like to do some exhaust work I have a huge job I need to book. 10 updraft fans with no hinges, a 50 foot back to back island canopy, a secondary 15 ft bakery canopy, and 50 filters. Lots of scraping and goop. By the time we're done you should pretty much know you won't want to do kitchen exhaust cleaning LOL. I'll email you, Brian. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 bfenne 14 Report post Posted December 16, 2004 If you are a two man crew washing buildings residential or commercial. Would it not be wise to have one guy applying chem. and the second guy after the correct lag/dwell time, rinse behind you? If you are a one man op. would it not be wise to just to do sections to avoid these problems? Just trying to get an idea of what works best for most in most situations. Thanks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 bfenne 14 Report post Posted December 16, 2004 Ken, Sounds good. I will look for your email. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Atlantic Power Washing 14 Report post Posted January 6, 2005 I have never etched windows with bleach.......I have had a problem with limo-something. I bought 6 boxes of this at one time. after using the first one and having to go back on the windows and buff the steaks out, I ended up giving the other 5 boxes away to my competitor......and he thought I was just being a nice guy. I believe it is the citric acid in this product that caused the etching. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Degraffreed 21 Report post Posted January 6, 2005 Atlantic, Was that product by chance limeolene by Espec?. I purchase about 80lbs if this in a final sale last year. Is it really that hard on echthing windows. Degraffreed Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Degraffreed 21 Report post Posted January 6, 2005 Atlantic, Was that product by chance limeolene by Espec?. I purchase about 80lbs if this in a final sale last year. Is it really that hard on echthing windows? Degraffreed Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 James 624 Report post Posted January 7, 2005 What bleach will do is take the slippery smooth finish off the surface of the glass. Example - before power washing if you scrap paint off the glass ( soap water blade ) it will slide right off. After bleach it will skid and seem like tempered glass or sound like your scratching the glass. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Atlantic Power Washing 14 Report post Posted January 7, 2005 Atlantic,Was that product by chance limeolene by Espec?. I purchase about 80lbs if this in a final sale last year. Is it really that hard on echthing windows? Degraffreed I wasn't gonna mention any names, but yeah that's it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Aplus 525 Report post Posted January 7, 2005 If you are a two man crew washing buildings residential or commercial. Would it not be wise to have one guy applying chem. and the second guy after the correct lag/dwell time, rinse behind you? If you are a one man op. would it not be wise to just to do sections to avoid these problems? Just trying to get an idea of what works best for most in most situations. Thanks. This is exactly how we wash houses. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 CLASSICPW 14 Report post Posted February 8, 2005 If we're talking about sealing and spraying stain, I found a great tool this past fall. I've always held a piece of cardboard against the house and edge of the deck when spraying sealer or stain, but Sherwin Williams sells a 3 ft piece of plastic attached to a handle. They use it for cutting in when spraying paint. It's about 18" tall and 15 bucks, a godsend. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hello All,
Just curious what everyone does to protect things from overspray and run off from the various chemicals useded on various jobs. ie..shrubs, plants, siding, decks.
Thanks.
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