9½ hours to do a house wash?

[Guest sprayclean2]

Hello,

My second washed house was a single level, vinyl sided and 1500 square feet. When the job was done the siding was “white glove clean” top to bottom and the aluminum fascia and gutters sparkled white.

Commercial siding cleaner was applied with an x-jet at the ratio recommended from the chemical distributor. Commercial gutter cleaner was applied and scrubed with a brush. Concerned about getting water behind the siding which I thought had inexpensive backing board, I used about 900 psi to rinse. Using the commercial chemicals, I had expected all the dirt to become loose then use a light rinse. I was wrong, so I hand brushed the entire house and gutters.

It seems I'm missing doing something to make this operation go faster while achieving the same results. I’m wondering… How clean can a dirty house be washed without brushing? Are chemicals supposed to loosen all the dirt so the dirt can be rinsed off with low psi? Maybe I should have used more pressure to rinse instead of brushing? I sure would appreciate any thoughts or suggestions that may help speed up the process. (The +... homeowner was very happy and there was no damage) Thank you.

Equipment:

18 ft brush, 8 ft brush, x-jet, 13hp 4gpm washer, Commercial house wash & gutter chemicals, x-jet, 18 ft telescopic wand not used

[Mike Williamson 198]

I guess I'm one of the closed minded, seeing I work alone, the x-jet is my helper, I can soap down one side of a house (around here Mc mansions) and with a flip of a switch 2 seconds later rinse the windows and bushes before the mix drys, on a hot day in the sun that is crucial. I can make my mix hot for real dirty , or lighten up on the bleach if I have light mildew. How do you downstream gutter zap ??

I have a seperate hose in my zap bucket and just connect to my x-jet, hit the gutter first then rinse the house quickly . I guess it all depends on your buisness and what you are comfortable with ..

I can do the same thing, soap it down and rinse the windows before they dry. Rather than flipping a switch, I swap tips. Takes all of 5 second or so to flush chems from the hose.

I don't use zap, I use gutte shock, and I apply with a pump up, when needed, which isn't often. For my tastes, Xjetting gutter cleaner is just too dang messy, and uses way too much product.

Whatever works for you, or me, that's what matters. I was referring to guys who refuse to even try it, or who claim downstreaming doesn't/won't/can't work. I used to be one of those guys! I've told many a beginner "ditch that downstreamer, get an Xjet". I was wrong!

[R. Williamson 14]

Lance, You need to adjust the regulator on the Shurflo to not cycle as much and change your injector to a 5-8 gpm. On a side note this only works on pressure type unloaders.

Mike, the X-Jet works under high pressure with no back pressure after it pulls the chemical into the stream. A higher velocity of water will create more pull. With a downstreamer this is not obtainable. The reason this method kills injectors is that it fatigues the spring that keeps the ball off the body of the injector. This is why injectors fail the extra pressure from the Shurflo increases the speed of failure.

[YVPW 20]

I've got a downstreamer from Bob that I measured for my machine, it does 10-1. I use gutter cleaner with a pump up when needed, you don't hardly use any cleaner and a lot less mess, and you don't have to worry about getting it on something that you don't want. You don't have to buy any of the specialty gutter shock or gutter zap, it's as simple as getting some purple power and mixing it 1:1 or 1:2 and spraying it on, same thing. No shipping costs easy as stopping by Wal-Mart or an auto parts store.

[zapp 72]

I've got a downstreamer from Bob that I measured for my machine, it does 10-1. I use gutter cleaner with a pump up when needed, you don't hardly use any cleaner and a lot less mess, and you don't have to worry about getting it on something that you don't want. You don't have to buy any of the specialty gutter shock or gutter zap, it's as simple as getting some purple power and mixing it 1:1 or 1:2 and spraying it on, same thing. No shipping costs easy as stopping by Wal-Mart or an auto parts store.

Yeah the pump up works for ranches , but what do you do about two and three story Mc Mansions ?? , X jeting the Zap is a pain in the butt and messy (besides costly) I did a sample yesterday for a customer that had two other contractors tell her they wouldn't be able to get rid of the streaks

I hand cleaned with Zap and she marveled at the results I explained I charge $1.00 per lin ft to hand clean the streaks besides my normal washing price and she didn't care just wanted the house to look new again thats $180.00 on top of the wash price. I now advertise streak removal from gutters and roofs...

[Mike Williamson 198]

Yeah the pump up works for ranches , but what do you do about two and three story Mc Mansions ?? , X jeting the Zap is a pain in the butt and messy (besides costly) I did a sample yesterday for a customer that had two other contractors tell her they wouldn't be able to get rid of the streaks

I hand cleaned with Zap and she marveled at the results I explained I charge $1.00 per lin ft to hand clean the streaks besides my normal washing price and she didn't care just wanted the house to look new again thats $180.00 on top of the wash price. I now advertise streak removal from gutters and roofs...

We don't have too many 2 or 3 story houses here, and as I said, I don't need the gutter cleaners that much. Usually housewash does just fine. If I needed to, yes, I could Xjet the gutter cleaner, but that's not my preferred method. I'd say 75% of my house washes are single story houses, many without gutters at all.

Excellent idea on the "streak removal"!

[CCPC 26]

I used to brush the gutters even with the faintest amount of streakage, but lately decided that's a waste of time. So now I only use gutter cleaner if the streaks are really an eye sore, or if the customer insists on it.

I've really started analizing what things are costing the most time on a job, and to my suprise a lot of it is the little things that no one is going to notice anyways. I'm still always going to insist on a high level of workmanship, and even cutting out some of the little things, I'm still light years ahead of my competition.

[Mike Williamson 198]

I used to brush the gutters even with the faintest amount of streakage, but lately decided that's a waste of time. So now I only use gutter cleaner if the streaks are really an eye sore, or if the customer insists on it.

I've really started analizing what things are costing the most time on a job, and to my suprise a lot of it is the little things that no one is going to notice anyways. I'm still always going to insist on a high level of workmanship, and even cutting out some of the little things, I'm still light years ahead of my competition.

I do the same thing! Unless the gutters are streaked very noticeably, or as you said, the customer insists (only one ever has) I don't mess with it. It isn't a case of not wanting to do a great job, but rather the fact that the gutter cleaners DO remove a thin layer of paint in order to get the streaks off...meaning the more it is cleaned, the more likely it is the bare metal will come through. I don't use gutter cleaner at all on fascia wrap anymore...had a few times where even with a weak mix and no brushing, the paint washed off and exposed bare metal. I can fix it if it is white, but other colors are near impossible to match. I just explain, if they ask, that I have a cleaner that will remove the streaks, but that it is possible it will also take the paint off. Just not worth the liability and hassle if they don't ask. Never had a complaint yet!

[CCPC 26]

I do the same thing! Unless the gutters are streaked very noticeably, or as you said, the customer insists (only one ever has) I don't mess with it. It isn't a case of not wanting to do a great job, but rather the fact that the gutter cleaners DO remove a thin layer of paint in order to get the streaks off...meaning the more it is cleaned, the more likely it is the bare metal will come through. I don't use gutter cleaner at all on fascia wrap anymore...had a few times where even with a weak mix and no brushing, the paint washed off and exposed bare metal. I can fix it if it is white, but other colors are near impossible to match. I just explain, if they ask, that I have a cleaner that will remove the streaks, but that it is possible it will also take the paint off. Just not worth the liability and hassle if they don't ask. Never had a complaint yet!

I HATE removing streaks from facia and flashing, and your right about the paint being a bit fragile on the facia. Not only is it twice as difficult to remove than streaks on gutters, but it sometimes seems then only way to remove it is by taking all the paint off with it!

[Dave O 15]

9 1/2 hours for a house isn't bad. I still get yelled at because it has taken me 1 year to do ours. Wait I still haven't started it yet, but I did get the chems out once. At least I still get dinner though.

[YVPW 20]

I do the same when I wash a house, don't do the gutters unless there are noticeable black streaks, I find there worse on newer gutters. Most older ones are faded anyway with mildew on them, the bleach and pressure takes care of that. It seems that most customers are satisfied with just doing it like that. I've had the same problem with the fascia on some houses, the paint comes off very easy on those areas. I keep a can of white spray paint with me in case I do accidentally take the paint off some were, the color I have usually matches up just fine. I try to keep it off the fascia after learning the hard way with paint coming off. What do you all do about brushing gutters that are high off the ground? I hate having to get out the ladder, I know I've cleaned gutters without a brush before, and they came clean, but after inspecting closely I could still see streaks in them. There's just no way of getting them totally clean without a brush to break the surface.

[Mark Gallison 14]

We use a long aluminum telescopic pole and can reach third story. The pole is really light and makes fast work.

[jmpressurewashing 14]

9 1/2 hours is a long time, doing a good job is important but that length of time should not be needed for a 1500 square foot house. I can do that size home with 1 hour, that includes pulling up, pulling out hose from my reel and starting up my blackknight pressure washer. Using the right chems, plus having heat will seriously cut your time down. Bleach at 12% mixed with power house plus heat works great on vinyl, with hardly no pressure needed.

[barryg33 14]

ok i'm going to play dumb here...........i use the x-jet w/o inserts and steve rowletts chemicals. works great for me . 4gpm cold water 3600psi. whats the advantages of "downstreaming"?

[PressurePros 249]

• Faster

• More Efficient

• Less chance of damage to landscaping and windows, you don't have to worry about rinsing windows and plants as much

• Use less chemicals- one bucket does entire house

• Higher spray - you can reach 40-50 ft with right nozzle

• No buckets or hoses to lug around (or spill)

• Safer for user as dilutions of 12% are effective at killing mold but with no mist to choke you or the neighbors

• No overspray

• Less chance of damaging or "signing" oxidized siding

Downsides are: Dilution may be too weak for stucco or dryvit

Once you try this a few times with the right nozles you will probably be keeping your X-Jet on the truck more often than not. Its like anything else that is new you have to change your mindset. I never looked back.

[Dan Stapleton 14]

• Faster

• More Efficient

• Less chance of damage to landscaping and windows, you don't have to worry about rinsing windows and plants as much

• Use less chemicals- one bucket does entire house

• Higher spray - you can reach 40-50 ft with right nozzle

• No buckets or hoses to lug around (or spill)

• Safer for user as dilutions of 12% are effective at mold but with no mist to choke you or the neighbors

• No overspray

• Less chance of damaging or "signing" oxidized siding

Downsides are: Dilution may be too weak for stucco or dryvit

Once you try this a few times with the right nozles you will probably be keeping your X-Jet on the truck more often than not. Its like anything else that is new you have to change your mindset. I never looked back.

This is all true. I started downstreaming before the x-jet and it has its uses. I HAVE to break out the m5 maybe once in 15 jobs (in the mildew capital).When downstreaming try soaping and rinsing Twice on stucco. works a lot of the time. For more foam and agitation wave your wand back and forth while soaping. Very good points, Ken.

[barryg33 14]

can you use a downstream system with a portable cold water set up? thanks for the info!!!

[Mike Williamson 198]

can you use a downstream system with a portable cold water set up? thanks for the info!!!

Yep, you just need your chems in a portable container.

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

This is a good newbie thread! :) BUMP!

Beth

[cleanhoods 43]

Hello Lance and others who are offering advice and info… thank you.

• Siding mix contained sodium hydroxide. The mix was bought locally. I have never seen the name on any forum or for sale on any website. It’s a mix that a local chemical supplier gets from a big out of state chemical company to sell to pressure washers. I prefer not to mention names.
  
• No bleach was added to the chemicals.
  
• ratio: 3 gal water to 1 gal chemicals then apply using the red color x-jet proportioner (16 to 1) with 4gpm washer. (per instructions)
  

It sounds like there may be hope. Maybe I need to get chemicals from a distributor that actually is more involved in pressure washing. Can one person really do a good job on a house + gutters in about two hours?

DK34…

That was a good one. If you had shouted it out your car window four days ago when I was going into my 8th hour I could not have laughed.

You probably have a week mix or the chem. you are buying from your supplier is no good.The main thing is a gallon of bleach, a gallon of cleaner and 1/2 to 1 gallon water and your mix will be good.Thank you Marko

[louisgeorges 14]

Instead of bleach I use chlorine, it's much stronger!

Also never use chlorine that's over 30 days old because it lost all it's strength.

[Mike Williamson 198]

Instead of bleach I use chlorine, it's much stronger!

Also never use chlorine that's over 30 days old because it lost all it's strength.

Depends on how it is stored, and how fresh it was when you bought it. I've used 10.5% that was at least a month old with good results. Also depends on how hot it has been, etc. There's a thread around here somewhere in which Rod posted a link to a study done showing how sodium hypochlorite breaks down over time. It doesn't degrade nearly as quickly as some would have you believe.

Think about it...that bleach they sell in the store, do you think it was bottled yesterday? Most of use keep the same bottle of bleach well over a month, and it still does its job well...and that doesn't count the time it took to get from the place it was made to the store shelf where we bought it.

[All Surface 24]

Very good point mike. Problem with me is that my sh never stays in my tanks long enough to know just how long it takes to break down...I have gone on vacation for 10 days and come back to find that some left over mix still had a good kick to it and that was with soap still in the mix.

[louisgeorges 14]

You guys are right, its just a general rule to make it easy on yourself.

If the chlorine is still good after 30 days good but if you're having a hard time then get fresh chlorine.

My point is don't stock up on that stuff because fresh chlorine always work better than older chlorine.

Also it's not that expensive so get a new jug.

[Russ Spence 76]

Instead of bleach I use chlorine, it's much stronger!

Also never use chlorine that's over 30 days old because it lost all it's strength.

that is a good one ..... chlorine is a gas !

HAHAHA you really dont know squat do you?

[PressurePros 249]

Now I am really confused..

Instead of bleach I use chlorine, it's much stronger!

Also never use chlorine that's over 30 days old because it lost all it's strength.

From your other thread:

I don't know anything about pressure washing, I can't even remember the last time I used a pressure washer, so when that guy wrote that book I didn't question him. I didn't realize he was so old school!

Which one is it?

Edited December 11, 2008 by PressurePros