Beth n Rod

I would use employees

Shane,
Oh boy. Sorry. I did not know that Daniel was a forum leader.
TGS has been the premier website for good information on exterior wood care.
Pardon the ruckus. All my comments still apply.

Daniel,
I will admit to not being one of your fans. However, if you wish to start slinging mud, I'd suggest private messages. It is classless and a bit disrespectful to TGS, members, and the general public to post expletives on an open forum.
Your two statements shown above, written by you in this thread, are difficult to reconcile.
You asked a question about matching Cabot's Mahogany Flame pigment. I offered the best alternative that I am aware of.
Then you should know the pigments. Call the manufacturer, or Scott Paul, who sells a lot of TWP, maybe they can help. If available, order some sample cans.

Barbeque with in-laws and just spending some quality time with my family.

Beth,
 
Also the new software ... Ouch!
 
Have a terrific holiday, we're all back at it on Tuesday morning.

I have my inlaws hanging out at my house for the weekend and Sunday my family and some friends are coming by to hang out by my pool. The water is cranked up to 88 degrees so we can just float around and drink beer in the floating cooler I have in the pool..
By the time this weekend is over I should look like a bloated float:)
So what's your plans for this weekend(hopefully you don't have to work)?

Yes, upper right corner of the screen, it's now called "View New Content". It covers all aspects of the site, not just the forums.

Trevor,
I would reconsider and at least test using a 2% bleach/soap solution. Nothing kills mold and mildew more effectively than bleach. If you constantly rinse the surrounding walls with low pressure water while you are applying and letting the mix dwell a short while, it should work fine. Test on a ceiling spot next to a wall first. Unlike percarbonate, bleach kills quickly, AFAIK, on contact, so little or no dwell time is needed.
Surfactants such as Dow's Tergitol NP-9 thicken any chemical mix and provide some "cling". Many PW distributors should carry the product or similar.
Use a clear waterbase wood stain, not an oil stain. Mildewcides in oil stains break down over time, and linseed oil, which is used in most oil stains, is a food source for mold and mildew.

I like the way TGS shines.
 
Thanks Beth and Rod!

....faster too...and some new bells and whistles...
 
As usual TGS shines!
 
Beth

Okay....let's all just breath.
None of us are going to agree all of the time on methods or products. That's the life of a Woodie. At the end of it all when we post photos, we all admire each others work regardless of the finish.
Now then.....Cabot's Mahogany Flame color, AC has a Mahogany color, and Sikkens SRD has one too.
One last thing, all of our forum leaders are expected to uphold the desired professionalism here on TGS. We strive to be a forum that doesn't tolerate or allow locker room/ bar style behavior. Our goal has always been and will always be to provide a professional forum for all to exchange in business dialog.
Have a great day. Oh, and if the wood is clean and bare, seal it up! :-)
Beth

Okay everyone. Please keep threads on topic and let's all remember to not air dirty laundry and other BBS's business here. It's not cool, we do not want it, it will not be allowed. Keep threads civil, on topic, and courteous. We thank you in advance.
Beth

Also go here: Pressure Washing and Contractor Cleaning Forums - The Grime Scene FAQ
I don't mean to brag, but this forum has been the premier place for wood care for MANY years. We are not distributor owned, and the best woodies in the industry have posted tons of valuable stuff for many many years.....
Beth

It should not have happened to begin with. Two BOD's told you NOT to post it and you did. Really? Why? What could you possibly hope to gain? What do you think should happen to you as a result of these actions? Do you realize the damage you have done to PWNA? The other day you and I spoke on the phone and you sounded so passionate, so determined to remove yourself from negativity and bashing. You wanted to take the high road and really help the PWNA. What happened to that? Years back there was another ED that did something very similar. The damage done by one particular incident was horrible. It has taken the PWNA YEARS to recover from it, and in one post you have dragged the PWNA back down into the mud. Do you know why? Because of perception. The PERCEPTION is that since you are the ED, you are a voice for PWNA, you have the blessing of the PWNA BOD,a nd lots of folks will not believe you acted on your own, because that's the way it is. People are dramatic. They speculate. You made a horrible decision and now PWNA will undoubtedly suffer for it. That's a shame. I am really glad I am not on the PWNA BOD right now but I can tell you that if I were, the discussions going on would be long and very thoughtful. They would not be easy ones to hold. As a former BOD and as a current member, I sincerely hope that the current PWNA BOD will think long and hard before taking this lightly and brushing it off. You actually traveled to Arizona and looked for him not just once....you STALKED him. If you were to ever do that to me, I would call the police.
This is sad, and disgraceful. But the PWNA as an association is not to blame. YOU as an individual are, and if you really respect the PWNA then you need to make a tough decision of your own.
Beth
p.s. http://www.thepwna.org/aboutus.php

Welcome to TGS John,
Please go to your My Controls and add your signature. :)
Beth

Mine is attached...
First_Choice_Power_Washing_LLC_Handbook_English[1].doc

+1...what he said.
Beth

Congratulations. You run a cancer awareness group. You go to church. You have referrals. You could **** gold dust for all I care
You still don' know how to take care of a deck. You can defend your techniques all you want, but unless you are interested in the right way to do things quit wasting everyone's time if you don't want to listen and you don't give a hoot what anyone else says.

Thanks Russ, we appreciate the support and understanding.
Beth :)

What is your strongest area in the operation of your business.

If the white things "feel like powder," they would not feel at all. Instead it would crumble and become smooth and chalky in your fingertips. It would also come right off. You might even be able to blow it off.
There are two forms of eff. 1) Powdery. 2) Calcified.
Powdery eff is pretty easy to remove. Its more difficult to keep it from coming back.
Calcified eff is extremely difficult to remove and in my opinion should only be done by a professional. Thats where you can run into a problem. Not many I would consider to be professionals in the art of eff removal. Every situation is a little different and requires a little different technique. A lot of damage can be done very quickly if you don't know exactly what you're doing. Not to mention the possibility of burning the brick.
My question to you: How long did it take this white stuff to get where it is, and how long has it been there? Are the bricks new or old? Has the white stuff suddenly appeared over the last couple of weeks, months or years? Has the brick been sealed? If so, when?
Even without those questions being answered I'll tell you my initial opinion on what is going on and it's pretty simple. It may be calcified efflorescence, but it usually doesn't look like that. Calcified eff would also take a few years to get to look like what you have. Doesn't really fit the profile but I wouldn't exclude it.
In my opining, it looks like the bricks had moisture in them and sealer was applied prematurely. The moisture wicking out from the brick will not be able to evaporate and will turn the sealer white. The amount of whiteness depends on how much moisture is trying to get out. The more moisture = more white. If this is the case all you will have to do is find out what type of remover to use on the sealer. It will need to be taken off, let the brick dry thoroughly and then reapply the sealer.

No matter what the chems or strength, you should always use the correct PPE because you just never know and accidents do happen.
I do not use the Oxalic here much because I have not had good luck with it on both rust and fertilizer stains. When I do try it out, I use the PPE to be safe because it is both an acid and a poison.
Always be safe.
_________________
Superior Power Washing
Chris Chappell
Exterior House Cleaning in Corpus Christi Texas

Alco Valves I have 4 over 3 yrs old

I have used those ballvalves that Russ is showing for over a year now,running chlorine and degreaser through them and they last. They are heavier than most ball valves but well worth the extra weight.

I think the point we are missing here is removing the finish. Sometimes we are doing multi- applications of a strong Alki. Deciding when to stop the alki action is another matter. Has the Finish been removed? Do we need to to do it again? Do we want to stop the action of the Alki? Do we already know we have to sand? Is there allot of organic Stains, Rust stains ect..? Is there a need to Bleach the wood after stripping?
Stopping the action of the Stripper and Removing Tannin Stains and Brightening the wood are different actions although many or most times a simple neutralization works after a clean or mild strip of the wood.I do know the less moisture that is in the wood the better the Acid works for removing Tannins and Stains.
When using OxAcid a problem happens when it doesn't totally dissolve and it leaves a Salty looking resydue on your woodfriendmembers deck. Or Rod has been on your DEck working out to the Oldy's
If I keep on writing do you think I'll give Kev a Headache because I have one ? LOL